Trouble Sharpening Case CV steel?

[BK14]

I was like you and had a bit of trouble getting a really fine edge on CV. However, I got an Edge Pro Apex and sharpened my Sodbuster Jr. to 19 DPS with a 21 DPS microbevel up to 1000 grit, then the Spyderco UF rods and the thing is RIDICULOUS. I think our problems may be coming from less than exact factory angles from Case. I have never found traditionals (or most knives, for that matter) to have very consistent bevel angles out of box. If you're really dedicated, send it to someone to set the exact angle on it for you. Hope this helps.

 

[jpm2]

...
I'm enjoying this knife.
One thing I have noticed that is a bit iffy :
I don't know if any of you remember when I got "cut" barely nick / stabbed (three or four mm wound) on my Benchmade 710 M390 that I was stupid enough to put in my back right hand pocket.
My hankie fold looped over the blade tip and partially opened the knife so that when I later reached in my pocket to get the hankie I got bit.

aaannnnnyway . . . that was because the blade tip was so close to the opening of the knife when closed that one can poke their finger on the tip if you press in a little at the slot near the tip of the closed blade.

On this Case Sod Buster it is exactly the same way and after I sharpened the knife it was even worse. Very noticeable / easy to poke your finger on the tip.
I took an extra coarse diamond paddle to the tip to "clip" it a little more. Not very effective (?pretty good hardness on this blade ?) seems like. I am going to have to hold it against my large white grind stone that runs slow in a water bath and get serious with grinding some significant metal off the spine of the tip.

Bottom line : if you back pocket a Case Sod Buster be careful.
but
do buy one, it is an eager work knife.

All my case knives and the like are stopped when folded with I think is refered to as a "kick". I grind this down to allow the blade to sit lower in the handle when folded. The only limits are blade edge hitting the back spring, and nail nick location. I prefer this to grinding down the tip, if possible.

I just did this with a new gec66 on all 3 blades. Went just a hair too far on the clip blade which resulted in a very slight shiny spot on tiny part of the edge when snapped closed.

 

[Wowbagger]

"kick". I grind this down to allow the blade to sit lower in the handle when folded. The only limits are blade edge hitting the back spring

Yes Sir
I thought about / considered learning how to do this (I've never done this before).
I can relate though. One of two Cold Steel Lucky's that I have the front portion of the serrated blade (which is pain edge at that point) hits the spring. Not good.

Also on the Sod Buster it seems that as I sharpen the tip it is going to keep doing this more and more. IN THIS CASE I think clipping the blade shape a little more is the way to go.
(I'll be gentle).

Thanks for the input.

I just did this with a new gec66 on all 3 blades.

Some how I've turned into a GEC basher and I have never owned one (I'm just jealous as hell that I haven't been there to pull the trigger on the ones I want before they get snapped up) . . .
but . . .
Isn't it true that the cream of the crop of the knife people from the best companies of the past all joined forces and now work at GEC ?
If so, or there a bouts, WHY are knives going out the door that need work ?
Seems like too that you could send it back and get THEM to tweak it for you and make it good if what happened to yours happened (blade hitting spring) while they were tweaking it. Now you are just out and really it isn't your fault. Completely.
Just a little after their blunder.
Overly tight springs, edges above the handles . . .
crème de la crème ?
huh ?

PS: the spring pull force on my Case Sod Buster could not be better. Firm to open, quite strong when open, not too hard to close. I can pinch and open it I rarely use the nail nick.

 

[Wowbagger]

Alas
Mayday
Mayday
Mayday
Fleebag apparently lost at sea.
Anyone in the area commence search procedures.
Air search requested.
Over

 

[jpm2]

Some how I've turned into a GEC basher and I have never owned one (I'm just jealous as hell that I haven't been there to pull the trigger on the ones I want before they get snapped up) . . .
but . . .
Isn't it true that the cream of the crop of the knife people from the best companies of the past all joined forces and now work at GEC ?

If so, or there a bouts, WHY are knives going out the door that need work ?
Seems like too that you could send it back and get THEM to tweak it for you and make it good if what happened to yours happened (blade hitting spring) while they were tweaking it. Now you are just out and really it isn't your fault. Completely.
Just a little after their blunder.

Overly tight springs, edges above the handles . . .
crème de la crème ?
huh ?

PS: the spring pull force on my Case Sod Buster could not be better. Firm to open, quite strong when open, not too hard to close. I can pinch and open it I rarely use the nail nick.

....
I own a few of both brands and can't bash either one, I like'm both for various reasons. I can find flaws in any production knife, GEC's & Case included.

Guess I should clarify about the 66. I'm a hopeless tinkerer who thinks can make anything better. The 66 was fine as received, but since the most used part of my knife is the tip, and having the blades sit a hair lower helps ergos/feel of the grip, decided to improve it. Unknown to me, the clip blade tolerance was already optimal with the tip just below snagging range, and the edge just shy of kissing the back spring.
But no worries, a few sharpenings and it's all well.

 

[Lapedog]

Case has stated on their own forum, their CV (which they term as a 'modified 1095') is hardened a couple RC points beyond their stainless 'Tru-Sharp' steel. Their stainless is taken to RC 55-57 or so (they've published this); this would imply their CV is taken to RC 57 at least, or maybe a little more. No reason to worry about it being too soft.

All the issues I've seen in sharpening my own CV blades, is that some will need some thinning at/behind the edge to really pop hairs and perform at their best. Edge angles at or below 15° per side (30° inclusive) are the best target; I prefer an edge around 25° inclusive (12.5° per side). Over time, in resharpening mine, I've also noticed edge retention improve with a few subsequent resharpenings. This could be a sign of some heat-damaged steel on the factory edge, which is weak and will need to come off.

And the stones & tools used to sharpen CV don't need to be anything special. A simple, two-sided SiC or AlOx stone, of the type found at ACE or Sears, will do great with these knives. The 'fine' side of the stone will finish it to around ~320-grit or so, which is a great working edge on CV. I'd prefer anything between 320-600 for CV. A medium Arkansas stone also works well for the finished edge on CV. Use all of these stones with some mineral oil.

Regarding the edge produced on the ceramic tube/insulator, it's likely that edge had a burr folding over. That'll account for the sharpness deteriorating quickly from that one. It's common with ceramic rod/tube-type sharpeners; I generally avoid using those. They're very hard, load up too fast and focus pressure into a very small portion of the edge; and that's basically a 'perfect storm', burr-forming trifecta, right there.


David

Many knives have their edge overheated during sharpening at the factory. After a few sharpening sessions you usually reach better steel that was not damaged by overheating.