Trouble with a new knife. Drilling handle scales

Metalhead0483

Metalhead0483

Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
539
Hey all. I'm working on a project that has me scratching me head a bit. I'm making a blade as a Christmas gift for a good friend. It's a historical blade based on a find in London from around 1350. Nice looking layout actually.

The tang is what's causing my hang-up. It's designed (as in the original) so that the blade bevel continues all the way through the knife, tang and all. It actually makes for a very nice looking blade, very clean with no plunge lines or ricasso. I thought ahead and drilled the pin holes in the tang before grinding the bevel, so they are at 90 to the blade, but now that it's ready for the handle how do I get the tang squared to the drill so everything lines up, without having a flat tang to go off of? So far the only thing I've come up with is using shims to counteract the angle of the bevel, but I'm hoping someone else will have some scathingly brilliant idea that'll be easier (and more precise) in execution.

Thanks!
 
I would say that at some point you will have to match the angle of the tang to the scales in order for the handle to feel right in your hand. I would suggest gluing the handles on with super glue and then squaring up the scales. Then knock them off and drill(through the tang) each side separately.
 
I made myself a drilling fixture from a Jorgensen wood clamp whereas I changed it to both screw handles to be on top/counter rotating, and a 2x12 pine board, which grips the blade so as to drill holes.

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I'll post a pic tonite. But your right, you need to compenstate for that angle in/on the tang. I use (one of many) a small sliver of wood for that. I oversize the scales, drill one side first (put a temp pin in the first hole before you drill the second), then the second; same way. Take the two scales by themselves, stick some temporary pins through both, then sand/finish the ends that meet the guard or ricasso so the contours and angles match, then use the temp pins to pin them to the tang and finish up the top, bottom and ends. As for contour of the scale flats/sides, I just grind off the temp pins as I go, knocking/hammering them from side to side as needed.

edited....
 
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This is how I do it.

  1. Temporarily superglue (or clamp) one scale in place. Drill pin holes through the scale from the tang side. We know that the holes through the tang are straight, so they'll act as guides for the dill... though you may still want to shim the setup slightly to help things line up.
  2. Superglue (or clamp) the second scale in place so that both scales are attached to the handle. Drill the second scale through the first scale and tang. This will ensure a straight hole. Again, you may want to shim the setup a bit.

It's simple... but it works. Hope this was helpful.
Erin
 
I'll second Erin's method. Don't overthink it. Been there, done that. Results work out darn near the same, with far less headache.
 
If the tang has taper measure the thickness of both ends, subtract the thinner end from the thicker end, divide that number in half and put that measure of feeler gauges under the thin end. This will make the tang level for drilling.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the helpful suggestions gents!

Anvilring, I'd love to see pictures of that setup. Sounds cool.
 
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