Tru oil

Walt2

Walt2

Joined
Mar 13, 2001
Messages
1,157
Seems like I remember seeing a thread sometime ago about thinning Tru Oil with something. Does anyone have any info on this? Thanks for any info.
 
Why are you looking to thin Tru-Oil? I have used it a bunch, and with various things added. What are you trying to do with the Tru-Oil, maybe I can steer you to the right instructions.


-Xander
 
There was a thread where tru-oil was mixed with Armorall to make it dry faster. I tried it and decided to just use the tru-oil the way it came out of the bottle.
 
Thanks for the answers. I have used Tru Oil for years on gun stocks and on a few knives. Seems like the thread I saw said something about better penetration when thinned. Just curious is all.
 
Search for "Bruce Bump" and Tru-oil. He has his own way of working with it and you sure can't argue with the quality of his results!
Here's Bruce :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...uce-Bump-MS-Winding-Feather-Fighter-WIP/page2

I've been using it straight from the bottle, and I don't think I've got it quite dialed in yet, but am liking how 4-5 light coats rubbed in look and feel.
I'm not using it on anything oily like Cocobolo or Ebony, seems to always come out sticky. Lots to learn.
Andy
 
BB's comments on the short shelf life can be lengthened a bit by removing the airspace in the bottle, keep a handful of marbles handy and drop them into the bottle to take up some airspace.

I think I got that from Brownell's Kinks books.

You can also try thinning with Acetone instead of mineral spirits.
I think it dries faster.
 
I have used it a ton like I said before. I found that it is sensitive to relative humidity. Definitely like it dry, 50% RH or less. I like to apply the finish during a cooling period, in the evening as to reduce outgassing of the wood or air expanding and causing bubbles. If used straight, I like o apply the first coat with sandpaper, then wipe the excess off across the grain. I do use the armorall method frequently, but the final 2-3 coats without it to reduce the milky haze. Acetone works very well to thin it if covering checkering or details you don't want filled in with finish.

The marbles is a good tip, but I also store mine upside down to reduce the chance of air intruding into the bottle. If you try the armorall method, be sure to pour a small amount of oil into a seperate cup so you don't contaminate the bottle.


-Xander
 
I've used True oil for quite a few projects. It worked particularly well on an MI Garand parts gun awhile back.
 
To polish it out? I almost always cut mine back with #0000 steel wool for a satin shine after a month or two of curing. But I have used a white compound on a soft cloth to see how it looked. Don't know if its the best method, but I still ended up cutting it back.


-Xander
 
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