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True Temper Flint Edge Kelly - refurbishing for duty
- Thread starter daizee
- Start date
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Dec 30, 2009
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- 11,115
This evening I cut, drilled, and pounded out the old handle. It was in surprsingly good shape, but I couldn't brook the two nails in the eye and the beaten shoulder. The grain of the handle is about as perfect as it gets, alignment-wise. The toe (toe?) of the handle had a chunk missing. I'll trim that smooth and turn this into a single-bit handle for something else with a small eye, like a hatchet. It's about 22" long now.
After some steel wool and scotch-brite I just said f*-it and grabbed some 180grit scraps from the knife sanding area. I used a bit of 9oz leather scrap as a backer for the paper. After a wipe down of the progress so far, I wiped it with Ballistol to keep the rust from coming back.
Side A:
Side 2 - still needs work, I got bored since there are other things calling:
I'm reasonably happy with this dirty finish on side A. We'll see if that changes... it might get a real brushing if I get retentive about it. Side 2 has to come up to match at least. There are plenty of chips in both edges, but I've got an app for that... sharpening will happen last if patience holds.
The head measures an even 3.5lb on the trigger pull gauge.
Where are people currently getting quality hafts?
I held a 36" today and it was way too long. This one wasn't very long at all, maybe 24" before the handle came out.
Comments and suggestions welcome.
-Daizee
After some steel wool and scotch-brite I just said f*-it and grabbed some 180grit scraps from the knife sanding area. I used a bit of 9oz leather scrap as a backer for the paper. After a wipe down of the progress so far, I wiped it with Ballistol to keep the rust from coming back.
Side A:
Side 2 - still needs work, I got bored since there are other things calling:
I'm reasonably happy with this dirty finish on side A. We'll see if that changes... it might get a real brushing if I get retentive about it. Side 2 has to come up to match at least. There are plenty of chips in both edges, but I've got an app for that... sharpening will happen last if patience holds.
The head measures an even 3.5lb on the trigger pull gauge.
Where are people currently getting quality hafts?
I held a 36" today and it was way too long. This one wasn't very long at all, maybe 24" before the handle came out.
Comments and suggestions welcome.
-Daizee
Square_peg
Gold Member
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- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,824
House Handle and J Hollywood both have a good selection of handles. Occasionally you'll find a decent handle in your local hardware store. It's worth keeping an eye open for them. If you have a local Stihl dealer they might have axes and handles.
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- Sep 12, 2009
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- 1,946
That's looking real nice 
As Pegs said, just look around at some local hardware stores first, you can sometimes find what you are looking for there. Especially for a full size DB head. Those are fairly common handles.
Good luck
As Pegs said, just look around at some local hardware stores first, you can sometimes find what you are looking for there. Especially for a full size DB head. Those are fairly common handles.
Good luck
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2011
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- 1,018
I have found the boy's axe and cruiser handles from O.P. Link to be nice white hickory. I usually pick them up at Ace Hardware.
Square_peg
Gold Member
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I'm assuming the eye is full sized and not cruiser sized. Full size DB handles typically come 36" long. House handle does carry 30" handles if you prefer. I'd stick with a 36" for that axe.
The Link handles from Ace are hit and miss. I've found some good ones there. Most have crappy grains. Many have mis-cut kerfs. Gawd, I wish they'd just ship 'em without a kerf at all. If you can't cut a kerf you probably can't re-hang an axe anyway.
The Link handles from Ace are hit and miss. I've found some good ones there. Most have crappy grains. Many have mis-cut kerfs. Gawd, I wish they'd just ship 'em without a kerf at all. If you can't cut a kerf you probably can't re-hang an axe anyway.
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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How can I tell the difference btw a cruiser and a full-size? It looks full-size to me...
The original handle was in the neighborhood of 30".
Looks like I need 3 handles (excuse me, 'helves'), so I'll prolly order a batch of the Tennessee's from J. Hollywood.
Tonight I cleaned up the back face of the TT to match the front:
it's marked 3-2 on the back:
Also knocked the rust off the Mann - apologies for the low light pix. It would be a bit of grinding to remove all the mushrooming and get the dings out of the poll, so maybe I'll leave it alone.
They are both now in a state I'd consider handle-able, minus edge work.
Debating trying to even out the finish on the Mann with cold blue.
The original handle was in the neighborhood of 30".
Looks like I need 3 handles (excuse me, 'helves'
), so I'll prolly order a batch of the Tennessee's from J. Hollywood.Tonight I cleaned up the back face of the TT to match the front:
it's marked 3-2 on the back:
Also knocked the rust off the Mann - apologies for the low light pix. It would be a bit of grinding to remove all the mushrooming and get the dings out of the poll, so maybe I'll leave it alone.
They are both now in a state I'd consider handle-able, minus edge work.
Debating trying to even out the finish on the Mann with cold blue.
Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,824
Cruiser eye is 2-1/4" x 5/8". Full size eye is 3" x 3/4".
Square_peg
Gold Member
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A Pulaski handle is 5/8" x 3" so it might be a better choice.
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 11,115
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 11,115
Tonight I brought the Kelly True Temper Flint Edge to Rock'n'Roll Knife & Tool, figuring I'd rough-shape the handle on the KMG and then hang it at home. Of course you know what happened... couldn't stop 'til it was done.
Before knocking it onto the haft I reprofiled the edge on the slack belt running in reverse. grind/dip/grind/dip. Barely got warm to the touch. Then I ground smooth the top and bottom of the head, removing the original ugly grind/tool marks. Finally I cleaned up all the surfaces with a scotchbrite belt. It needs about 10 minutes with a hand stone now and then it's good to go.
I thinned the wedge so it would drive a bit deeper - probably could have thinned it quite a bit more. It also got some wood glue in the kerf this time. We'll see how it... uh, hangs.
Before knocking it onto the haft I reprofiled the edge on the slack belt running in reverse. grind/dip/grind/dip. Barely got warm to the touch. Then I ground smooth the top and bottom of the head, removing the original ugly grind/tool marks. Finally I cleaned up all the surfaces with a scotchbrite belt. It needs about 10 minutes with a hand stone now and then it's good to go.
I thinned the wedge so it would drive a bit deeper - probably could have thinned it quite a bit more. It also got some wood glue in the kerf this time. We'll see how it... uh, hangs.
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- Jan 3, 2011
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daizee, Nice work on your Kelly. Kellys are a favorite of mine. Looks like your restore has brought her back to life. Nice work on her bits and hanging her.
Tom
Tom
gruntmedik
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Nice job!
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- Aug 31, 2012
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That turned out to be a nice looking double bit. Still looking for a double bit myself to do something similar with.
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Dec 30, 2009
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- 11,115
This axe ranks up there among belt grinders, bandsaws, and chainsaws as among the scariest tools I have ever used. I cut my finger on it while sharpening it on the stones before even going outside. Good news is it has a serious edge. Bad news is the damn thing is edges all over! There is no safe way to carry such a tool, and a sheath of some kind is a must.
That said, it chops like a deforestation demon!
It's too thin to make a good splitter - tried that first. and pulling it out of a stuck log is harrowing since the back edge comes right atcha. This makes me happy as I already have a perfect dedicated splitter. Chopping, on the other hand? O.M.G.
This thing is riduculously accurate, even more so than the others. Presumably this is due to the balance and straight haft. It cuts where I look. Just have to focus.
Before (note the efforts of three other axes to the left):
After:
And the 4" limb that was so much work with the 1.75lb Warren: just a snack for the Kelly.
That said, it chops like a deforestation demon!
It's too thin to make a good splitter - tried that first. and pulling it out of a stuck log is harrowing since the back edge comes right atcha. This makes me happy as I already have a perfect dedicated splitter. Chopping, on the other hand? O.M.G.
This thing is riduculously accurate, even more so than the others. Presumably this is due to the balance and straight haft. It cuts where I look. Just have to focus.
Before (note the efforts of three other axes to the left):
After:
And the 4" limb that was so much work with the 1.75lb Warren: just a snack for the Kelly.
Square_peg
Gold Member
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- Feb 1, 2012
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Welcome to my world. I cut myself every few weeks it seems. Usually it happens from a slip of the stone or file. Sometimes the cut comes while wiping off the polishing compound. My last cut came off of my broad axe. I was just reaching down to remove a wood chip and the back of my index finger bumped against the edge. It cut me like a razor.
Cuts are just a sign that you're sharpening skills are up to task. Band-aids are a badge of honor. Just avoid stitches.
