Trying to finish one of my first knives. Any ideas?

B

barnett25

Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
138
Last year I attended a class where I forged my first knives. I made a few blacksmiths knives, and this hidden tang knife. As you can see there were a few divots that were a bit too deep to grind out.

It is only ground to about a 320 grit finish. Because I don't have a grinder at home I can't take it any finer unless I hand finish it, and I am afraid I would soften all the crisp edges on the knife.

I was thinking of doing an antique finish to try to blend the divots into the piece, but I'm not sure how that would work with the rough surface.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I could finish this?
 

Attachments

  • post-25232-125609087482.jpg
    post-25232-125609087482.jpg
    30.1 KB · Views: 211
I like the knife, here is what I would do if it was mine. I would match it with a nice stag crown and a brass guard, put a mustard finish on it as is and make a nice period piece. I would make or have made a good period sheath and then I would wear it every opportunity I would get. \\

good luck
 
Very nice. Maybe etch in some more divots to create a more uniform primitive appearance. Stag handle also seems appropriate. But by all means finish it, and be proud of it !!
 
I'm not normally a stag guy, but since you said that I am starting to think that may fit the style of the blade a little better for some reason.
I have an old pair of whitetail antlers my dad and I found years ago, do you think those would be suitable, or are there special considerations when choosing stag? Also, how do you finish stag?
 
Whitetail antlers would work fine if they are thick enough....generally I would use the base of the antler where it attached to the scull as the butt end of the handle....mount it with the natural curve of the base of the antler curving down....as a finish folks have different opinions.....my own preference would be a hand rubbed finish with Danish oil or Tung oil....the Danish is more a true oil while the Tung oil is more like a seal. If your antlers are too thin, you may want to go online and find some stag but any natural antler would work if you can find the right size.....I have used Caribou antler for example....not the strongest handle around but it gives a nice primitive look and is still functional.
 
If I recall correctly there is a small tine only a couple inches up from the crown, do I just cut that off and sand it smooth?

I think it will be thick enough since I made my ricasso way too narrow. My understanding is that you almost always want to make your handle start out the same thickness as the width of the ricasso, otherwise it looks off.
 
Depending on the size, shape, and location of the small tine, you may want to cut it off or shorten and re-shape it to act as sort of a "finger grip".....if it is such that this is not an option, I would cut it off and then use a Dremel tool or other file and try to carve in some grooves or other surface features across the cut-off scar to make it blend in with the rest of the antler. As for adding other blade divots as I mentioned in my post above, let me know if you decide to go that route and I can give you some specific suggestions on how I would do it.
 
drlozier said:
Depending on the size, shape, and location of the small tine, you may want to cut it off or shorten and re-shape it to act as sort of a "finger grip".....if it is such that this is not an option, I would cut it off and then use a Dremel tool or other file and try to carve in some grooves or other surface features across the cut-off scar to make it blend in with the rest of the antler. As for adding other blade divots as I mentioned in my post above, let me know if you decide to go that route and I can give you some specific suggestions on how I would do it.
Click to expand...

I would like to know how to add the divots. I still haven't decided between a wood handle and stag, but I am fairly sure I would like to blend the divots in.
 
Here is how I would add the divots (artistic blemishes), only because from my experience I know this would work. Others may have some other or better ideas. First the disclaimer :)....I am not a master knife maker but I have experimented a lot with etching both on knife blades and in the non-knife "artistic metal etching world"...I strongly suggest you experiment with this technique with a scrap piece of the same kind of steel you used for your blade before you do it to your blade. You will need a 12 volt car battery charger or another source of 12 volt electricity (car battery), white vinegar, salt, etching resist (more on this later), an etching tool (pick, toothpick, scribe, nail, dried out ball point pen,whatever), a glass or plastic bowl (not metal), and a scrap piece of the same (or close) kind of metal you used for the blade about the same size as the blade. Dissolve into the vinegar as much salt as it will absorb at room temp without the salt settling on the bottom. Pour the mixture into the bowl. Coat the entire blade with the etching resist. For etching resist I have used melted bees wax, axle grease, lipstick, chapstick....any of these would work for your project but for finer lines or details some work better than others...safest bet for your plan is probably axle grease. Put it on thick on all the areas you do not want to be altered (edges for example). Leave the tip of the handle uncovered because you will attach one of the electrical leads to it and you will want a good electrical connection. Then, using your scribe, etch in the divots where you want them, being sure to strike through the grease and expose the metal you want to be "divoted"...is that a word ? Connect the positive lead from the 12 volt source to the knife handle that is not covered with grease and submerge the blade in the vinegar without submerging the 12 volt connection. Connect the negative lead from the 12 volt source to the scrap metal and put it in the vinegar without submerging the elec connection....DO NOT let the scrap metal and knife blade come into contact with each other or you will create a short, sparks, etc. When everything is hooked up and in the vinegar, turn the 12 volt power source on and let it go for 60-90 seconds. The scrap metal should bubble up....make sure you have good ventilation. After letting it cook, turn it off and pull the blade out and examine your divots...if you want them deeper, give it another 60-90 seconds of treatment. When you are satisfied, shut it all down and wash off the grease....I use goop hand cleaner. If you are satisfied you are done....but if you need to treat it some more, simply repeat the process until you have what you want. There are a number of variables that affect this process so you should experiment...the variables are temperature, kind of steel, size of divots, electrical current etc. If you can control the amperage from your 12 volt source, 2-3 amps is plenty....many battery chargers give you a choice on amperage...start with the lowest. I have used this technique to etch in designs, mountain scenes, my initials, animals, artwork etc....for things other than "divots" where precise lines are needed, you will want to study and experiment with more refined etching resist and etching tools. There is a lot of info on the net regarding more refined artistic metal etching techniques but for your divot project this should suffice. Be safe and use basic shop common sense. Good luck and let us know how this comes out !!
 
Here is the shape I was thinking of for the handle. I haven't decided between brass and steel for the guard, and I'm not sure if I want a butt cap. I think I am going to go with wood rather than stag since it's something I'm more familiar with.

I am getting the wood from Burl Source's beginner give-away, so I'm not sure what I'll get. If I get walnut I think I may use brass for the guard, and if I get something like maple I think I will stain it a bit and antique some steel for the guard.

Any critiques or suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3301.JPG
    IMG_3301.JPG
    14.8 KB · Views: 20
drlozier said:
Here is how I would add the divots (artistic blemishes), only because from my experience I know this would work. Others may have some other or better ideas. First the disclaimer :)....I am not a master knife maker but I have experimented a lot with etching both on knife blades and in the non-knife "artistic metal etching world"...I strongly suggest you experiment with this technique with a scrap piece of the same kind of steel you used for your blade before you do it to your blade. You will need a 12 volt car battery charger or another source of 12 volt electricity (car battery), white vinegar, salt, etching resist (more on this later), an etching tool (pick, toothpick, scribe, nail, dried out ball point pen,whatever), a glass or plastic bowl (not metal), and a scrap piece of the same (or close) kind of metal you used for the blade about the same size as the blade. Dissolve into the vinegar as much salt as it will absorb at room temp without the salt settling on the bottom. Pour the mixture into the bowl. Coat the entire blade with the etching resist. For etching resist I have used melted bees wax, axle grease, lipstick, chapstick....any of these would work for your project but for finer lines or details some work better than others...safest bet for your plan is probably axle grease. Put it on thick on all the areas you do not want to be altered (edges for example). Leave the tip of the handle uncovered because you will attach one of the electrical leads to it and you will want a good electrical connection. Then, using your scribe, etch in the divots where you want them, being sure to strike through the grease and expose the metal you want to be "divoted"...is that a word ? Connect the positive lead from the 12 volt source to the knife handle that is not covered with grease and submerge the blade in the vinegar without submerging the 12 volt connection. Connect the negative lead from the 12 volt source to the scrap metal and put it in the vinegar without submerging the elec connection....DO NOT let the scrap metal and knife blade come into contact with each other or you will create a short, sparks, etc. When everything is hooked up and in the vinegar, turn the 12 volt power source on and let it go for 60-90 seconds. The scrap metal should bubble up....make sure you have good ventilation. After letting it cook, turn it off and pull the blade out and examine your divots...if you want them deeper, give it another 60-90 seconds of treatment. When you are satisfied, shut it all down and wash off the grease....I use goop hand cleaner. If you are satisfied you are done....but if you need to treat it some more, simply repeat the process until you have what you want. There are a number of variables that affect this process so you should experiment...the variables are temperature, kind of steel, size of divots, electrical current etc. If you can control the amperage from your 12 volt source, 2-3 amps is plenty....many battery chargers give you a choice on amperage...start with the lowest. I have used this technique to etch in designs, mountain scenes, my initials, animals, artwork etc....for things other than "divots" where precise lines are needed, you will want to study and experiment with more refined etching resist and etching tools. There is a lot of info on the net regarding more refined artistic metal etching techniques but for your divot project this should suffice. Be safe and use basic shop common sense. Good luck and let us know how this comes out !!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I think my RC car battery charger may work for this.
 
Your handle concept looks great....nice clean simple lines. If it were me, I would use a brass finger guard and not put on a butt cap, only because butt caps are easier to attach ( in my opinion )when your tang extends all the way to the butt. As an aside, I tend to build my knives from re-cycled materials ( there is some pleasure in trying to make a silk purse from a sow's ear :) ) and I have found that a good cheap source of brass for finger guards is your local thrift store....they always seem to have a good selection of old solid brass candlesticks for not much money.
 
drlozier said:
Your handle concept looks great....nice clean simple lines. If it were me, I would use a brass finger guard and not put on a butt cap, only because butt caps are easier to attach ( in my opinion )when your tang extends all the way to the butt. As an aside, I tend to build my knives from re-cycled materials ( there is some pleasure in trying to make a silk purse from a sow's ear :) ) and I have found that a good cheap source of brass for finger guards is your local thrift store....they always seem to have a good selection of old solid brass candlesticks for not much money.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a great idea for a brass source. I was wondering if I would be able to find any in the size I want at the hardware store.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top