Trying to get into the game, but slightly confused.

J

Jarrett2k

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Dec 11, 2011
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I know this has probably been covered numerous times, but believe it or not I actually have less access to some resources that you guys think of as simple processes.

So let me just get started. Hell or high water, I'm getting into knifemaking. It's something I've wanted to do ever since I started collecting them. However, unlike most, I'd actually want to use a forge straight from the get go, for several reasons. For one, I live right beside a railroad, AND I change tires for the railroad company, so I should have no problem gaining access to hc spikes and possibly a chunk of rail road iron to use as my starter anvil. Another reason is heat treating. The closest shop I know of that I'd trust to heat treat a knife is an hour away, so they're totally out of the question.

I've considered building my own forge, but I think it'd be more efficient for me to just buy a propane knifemaking forge. I'd like to think that a REAL one would waste more of my expensive propane than one that I would construct, for not TOO much more expense.

I also realize for me to not get completely discouraged with the shaping and profiling processes I'd need a decent grinder and tabletop sander. I know about good grinders, but what would you guys recommend for a sander? I'd considered getting a belt/disk combo one from Sears that takes 2" belts and just call it a day until it breaks.

Is there anything else I'm missing? I'm trying to stay as low budget as possible to start so any tips are greatly appreciated. That being said, I don't mind an extra few dollars here and there to save me some time/hassle if it produces the same results. Just keep in mind that I'm 40 minutes away decent sized city.
 
I would forget about RR spikes for knives

Even the HC ones are too low of a carbon content to be effective about 1/2 to 1/3 of what is needed.

http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/rr-spike.htm
Sure get them and use them to practice on, pointing, rounding, making s-hooks and so on.
But they are so thick and heavy, they are lots of work and lots of heat to get down to smaller size.


The sears 2x42" is a popular starter belt grinder.-I would get that first and you can get started.


If you don't already have one, a hard wheel bench grinder is not that useful for knifemaking
once you have a belt grinder,you can use it for sharpening drills - which is the only thing I really use a hard wheel grinder for.


I still recommend grinding out your first knife and sending out for Ht
Texas knifemaker supply has the most reasonable HT terms.
In order to use them, you need a stainless steel like ats34, or cm154


If you're really set on forging, get 1084

Here is a link to the standard reply with links and info

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/947910-firsttimeknifemaker?p=10773980#post10773980
 
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Thanks for the input. I have been hearing great things about 1084 for a starter steel. Like I stated, in my post is the main reason for me going with forging is for the heat treating, having to ship blades out for heat treating just seems inefficient to me. That and I can pretty much turn any metal into forging practice, and I enjoy hammering on stuff. But for the record, i wasn't planning on selling off RR spike knives, they just seem like good practice.
 
Nothing wrong with starting with forging. I did, I'm doing some stock removal now though((when I actually get shop time).
Time is the most precious commodity you'll spend. You can use it to follow whatever path you'd like.

Building you're own forge isn't that hard. It mostly takes lots n lots of reading through forge posts to develop a plan. If you do have the skills you can make a better forge than you can buy for the same money.
 
RR Spike knives are fun to make and not really that hard. But like has been posted, they don't get that hard.

Now, I have heard that the clips that you find on tracks are usually good hard steel. Not sure what they're called.

Save money and build your forge. It's not that hard. Since you live in VA you might be able to find access to good coal. Or you could build a gas forge. Either way, they aren't hard once you do your research.

The Craftsman 2x42 is a good grinder. Get it. Use it.
 
I think your plan sounds pretty good. I'd look into Neo-Tribal Bladesmithing and get hammering! You can forge to shape and use hand tools to make a top notch blade.

As mentioned the HC spikes are really low carbon (medium carbon?) steel. I assume they will be great for practice but that is only a guess.

I'm a digital kiln, tool steel, stock removal guy but I think your plan sounds fun and would be a great way to make knives.
 
HC spikes are about .35% carbon. They will get reasonably hard if quenched in soap quench formula. Still not great. They can be fun to make though, and sell well if they look good. Definitely good practice, for your forging arm if nothing else. I have heard in a few places that track clips are 1080 steel. I've not tried to use them. For early practice, I recommend coil springs or buying some 1084 or 5160 bar stock. It's pretty cheap.

Speaking of cheap, you can build a very useable and not inefficient venturi propane forge for around $100, big enough for knives. Not much research necessary, google Ron Reil forge and read through all of his tutorial material. That's where I started. Some would recommend a blown forge to start with, also not hard to build- maybe a bit more expensive. You can find plenty of tutorials out there for these, as well. I think even in the stickies here.

140# rail makes a decent anvil if you can find a chunk a couple feet long.
 
Thanks fellas! I'll look into those forge plans now. I had originally planned on building my own propane forge anyway, just figured that I'd waste more propane in a hand made one than one that was bought.
 
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