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Tuf-Cloth vs. Ren Wax (FINAL RESULTS)
- Thread starter WRS
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
About the tire test, I never said "perform in parking lots".
It seems to me that if there was anything wrong with your surface prep the untreated section would still rust worse than the other sections since you prepared all the surfaces the same way and did everything the same to all the sections. I am bumfuzzled. If you repeat this test would it be too much trouble to try a section with mineral oil?
Thanks to you guys that do these realistic tests and take the time to make the results available to the rest of us. I appreciate it. I don't think these tests are too extreme, I think most evaluations are so easy on a blade that they don't tell any of us that actually use a knife in the real world anything we need to know.
m
P.S. I would like to point out that those of us that don't live near salt water usually live somewhere where the summers are humid enough and sweaty enough that the blade might as well be exposed to salt water and the winters are cold enough that condensation is a real problem.
Thanks to you guys that do these realistic tests and take the time to make the results available to the rest of us. I appreciate it. I don't think these tests are too extreme, I think most evaluations are so easy on a blade that they don't tell any of us that actually use a knife in the real world anything we need to know.
m
P.S. I would like to point out that those of us that don't live near salt water usually live somewhere where the summers are humid enough and sweaty enough that the blade might as well be exposed to salt water and the winters are cold enough that condensation is a real problem.
Hi Bill!
Thank You for conducting your test. I would be very interested (like was statet before)in the quality of the rust. How does the plate look like after a light treatment with i.e. Flitz. Are there sections where the rust is only on the surface or otherwise where Flitz is not enough to remove the rust.
Greetings
red
Thank You for conducting your test. I would be very interested (like was statet before)in the quality of the rust. How does the plate look like after a light treatment with i.e. Flitz. Are there sections where the rust is only on the surface or otherwise where Flitz is not enough to remove the rust.
Greetings
red
I have since cleaned off the rust that was on the test piece. I used a rust-remover jelly. All rust came off, but there is/was a little discoloration of the metal in spots.
I may try this one more time with the same metal. This time I think I will sand the heck out of the metal till it shines. I may rinse it off with plain tap water and wipe dry with a paper towel. That's it. No soaps, mineral spirts, steel wool, nothing.
This time I may coat each area TWICE about 24 hours apart for each application.
I will place it out side, off the direct ground and put some sort of cover several inches over it. This is mostly to avoid direct sun and shedding most rain.
I will see if I can dig up some mineral oil also.
What did I miss/forget?
Bill
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AKTI Member #A0000180
"Everyone was born right-handed. Only the greatest overcome it."
I may try this one more time with the same metal. This time I think I will sand the heck out of the metal till it shines. I may rinse it off with plain tap water and wipe dry with a paper towel. That's it. No soaps, mineral spirts, steel wool, nothing.
This time I may coat each area TWICE about 24 hours apart for each application.
I will place it out side, off the direct ground and put some sort of cover several inches over it. This is mostly to avoid direct sun and shedding most rain.
I will see if I can dig up some mineral oil also.
What did I miss/forget?
Bill
------------------
AKTI Member #A0000180
"Everyone was born right-handed. Only the greatest overcome it."
Place the plate in the same location and position (b/c of the effect of sunlight, prevailing wind, and anything/everything else), and reverse the order of the treatments (re: which side they are on).
Bernie
Bernie
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
I think you've got a winner with your latest plan. Try and keep a daily log of how they do. If the protectants don't hold up as long as expected (weeks) you can record how many days it takes each to subjectively "fail". That will let you do some sort of ranking. Good luck.
Jeff Clark is 100% on the money. Mineral spirits, like all aliphatic solvents, leaves an oil coating. Use an aromatic solvent, such a xylol to clean the steel.( I would avoid the MEK, nasty stuff) ASTM tests call for a scribe line to be drawn in the surface to break any coating left by treatment or preperation. Next time clean and prep the surface, use an aromatic solvent to remove any trace of oils, apply each treatment, then score a line across the center of each sample. Rust should be measured along the edge of the score. Interesting test. Thanks for going the trouble.
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