Tuf-Glide or Militec?

I have used Mil-Tec heated and unheated. I found the unheated Mil-Tec was not very good but heated it performed very well. I think having to heat the knife after application is a pain. I got tired of the blow dryer and used in the oven at low heat 150 degrees. It needs to be done three different times to be totally effective. This lube bonds to the metal. It is good but I find myself leaning toward Ballistol and Blue Lube. Just seems to be more time consuming to heat the knife for Mil-Tec. And I am concerned about effecting temper with heat. I think CLP Breakfree is not good one and I have had good results with applying CLP to rusted or stiff blades and cleaning rust very well and freeing up the stiff or tight blades. Works best if left over knife and then working or removing rust. Good luck.
RKH
 
I have used Mil-Tec heated and unheated. I found the unheated Mil-Tec was not very good but heated it performed very well. I think having to heat the knife after application is a pain. I got tired of the blow dryer and used in the oven at low heat 150 degrees. It needs to be done three different times to be totally effective. This lube bonds to the metal. It is good but I find myself leaning toward Ballistol and Blue Lube. Just seems to be more time consuming to heat the knife for Mil-Tec. And I am concerned about effecting temper with heat. I think CLP Breakfree is not good one and I have had good results with applying CLP to rusted or stiff blades and cleaning rust very well and freeing up the stiff or tight blades. Works best if left over knife and then working or removing rust. Good luck.
RKH
So, about how long does a heated application last? Do you think it's worth the effort?
 
Nice attitude...:thumbdn:

So you think that the person who said: "Effort? What effort is involved in using Militec-1?", actually read the Militec instructions about heating the metal 3 or 4 times? Of course not! He obviously has not followed this procedure or he wouldn't have made such an absurd statement.


Spare me your sanctimonious attitude.
 
back yrs ago when i 1st tried militec i did the heating thing and didnt think it was worth the effort myself, it still didnt work as well as tuffglide lol.

i like militec for guns but imho better stuff for pivots on knives.

YMMV/
 
According to Militecs website, the metal surfaces need to be heated several times during the application process for the full effect. ...

I don't what part of their website you read that on, but, trust me, it does NOT apply to oiling knives, guns, or anything else I know of. It works just fine at room temperature, unless maybe you live in an unheated igloo way north of the Arctic Circle.
 
I made a mistake as I meant to say CLP Breakfree was another good lube. I Received an email from Mil-tec stating the Mil-Tec would work better and bond to the metal better if heated up. And that 3 applications would work better. And it does seem to work better that way. There was an article or a link on Mil-tec's web site a couple of years ago recommending the heating process in reference to Benchmade Balisong knives. After Benchmade came out with the blue Lube I did not notice this on Mil-Tec website. Also, Benchmade recommended Mil-Tec but dropped the reference once it came out with Blue Lube. The Blue Lube worked great the first time I used it but only time will tell if it is better. I liked not having to heat the knife up with Blue Lube as it made me uneasy to heat a knife because the temper concern. Also, the heat may be detrimental to natural handle materials. And on the Blue lube Bottle it says it gives better protection to the knives. I am not sure if it is a rust preventives. These are just my own experiences over the years. Best regards.
RKH
 
IMO-

I'll take the path of least resistance. Tuf-Glide works he best for my applications, and that ranges from dust (blowing glacial silt and beach sand), to rain, snow and ice. Tuf-Glide dry's quik, and bonds to the steel for a long time. I use it on my Strider, and Spyderco folders.

I used CLP back in the service and said I would never use it again for a lube/preservitive. I've seen stuff rust, and it attracks grit.

Other than that, the super oils from Hoppy's. Mil-Tec is some good stuff, but the application process is a bit drawn out.

Frankly, this is the old argument of Ford/Chevy, Mercedes/BMW, Winchester/Remington. It all comes down to what you intend on doing at the time and how you do it. Metal protection is something I don't take lightly because I am a collector, I CHOOSE to keep my blades and guns in as best condition possible.

Just my 2-cents.
 
Anybody used both of these enough to prefer one over the other?
Is Militec worth the effort? i.e. Does it last?

I am working in a very dusty environment and find that the premium lubes I've been using collect too much dirt {in my folder}. I currently have been using Corrosion-X for lubrication....

I've used both. For me, the Tuff Glide works better on knives and guns. Militec does a better job on my Mini 14, but that's the only exception.
 
Maybe this is the right place to ask it: would you recommend Militech-1 with teflon washers?
 
Anybody used both of these enough to prefer one over the other?
Is Militec worth the effort? i.e. Does it last?

I am working in a very dusty environment and find that the premium lubes I've been using collect too much dirt {in my folder}. I currently have been using Corrosion-X for lubrication.

If any idiot mentions WD-40, [it's a SOLVENT, not a lube], 3 in 1 oil or any other 'really good oil' on this thread, I will scream.

I found same problem you mentioned - collecting dust, with both Militec and Tuf-Glide and also White Lighting. I use now "Formula 3 Gun Coditioner" by Kleen Bore and it works best for me.

I am talking only about using it on folding knives to have smooth opening. Those products may be great for guns, bikes, cars..., but for folders it is different.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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