Tumblerware sharpener - too gimmicky?

The Horl is expensive. If I was going to go for a cheaper alternative I’d choose Work Sharp’s recently released roller.
 
I found a guy who did a comparison between the Tumbler and the Horl. Although he does not tell what the grit comparisons are, he does a pretty good job comparing the basics and showing the drawbacks of the "systems". Here is the location of the video review :
 
I didn't know about the Work-Sharp! It might be a copy and might be licensed.

So lets keep terms straight. What I stated above was a fact, not just logic.
My meaning above was a cheap-not-licensed-possibly-breaking-patent-copy

I just found a video review of the Work Sharp here:

Here is the cut to the chase:
It comes with multiple sharpening discs - 320 and 600 grit
I know I am not as passionate or knowledgeable as many of you at this forum, but I would consider 600 grit to be a coarse grit for steel blade knife sharpeners. (I still don't know what the Horl comes with)

The discs are magnetic attachments, not screw-in like the Horl or Tumbler
Seems to have bearings for the roller like the Horl (The Tumbler does not)
The magnetic guide block has 4 possible angles: (15°, 17°,20°, 25°) - the others have only two: 15° and ,20°
He shows using the ceramic hone end.

The price for all three can be about the same if caught on sale.
It seems that the Horl and Work Sharp might be about comparable quality but the Tumbler is still a cheap knock-off.

These sharpeners seem easy to use and are probably sufficient for for the non-enthusiast because a pretty-sharp knife if much, much better than a dull knife.

Disclaimer : I have not held or used ANY of these three but I wanted to know opinions of others, not just snarky comments from others.
 
It seems that the Horl and Work Sharp might be about comparable quality but the Tumbler is still a cheap knock-off.
Hmmmm,.... why thumbler is a cheap knock-off?
Just because its made in china?
Didn't you know most parts (if not all) for Work Sharp Precision Adjust sharpener are made in china? I bet parts for Wotk sharp roler are made in china.
 
My meaning above was a cheap-not-licensed-possibly-breaking-patent-copy
This only works if the guy who made the Tumbler patented it officialy and he is paying so he can have a patent.
Did you checked patent registries?

What makes you believe this cheap plastic Work sharp roler is comparable to Tumbler?
 
Here is the same guy comparing three: Tumbler, Hone, Work Sharp


To answer the above question, I was only looking at versatility and the top comparison showing the shortcomings of the Tumbler, which is why I am confident calling it a cheap-knock-off. It does not really do what it is supposed to do, just looks like it.

Tumbler - his score 44/100
has weak magnets on the base
the wood swells and the roller gets jammed
the "hone" disc is just a steel disc and does not really hone
if they have only a 2000 grit disc it cannot be sintered diamonds
bottom line - does not hold the knife well enough to work
(cheap-knock-off due to interior design, does not do what it's main design implies)

Hone - his score 93/100
very strong magnets and the base holder
15% and 20% on the base holder
multiple grits available.
versatile base with tip cutout shelf and can do really small knives
they do have a patent
now has ball bearings for the roller

Work Sharp - his score 88/100
probably has bearings on smooth roller
roller has wheels for slight curve sharpening without sliding the roller
multiple grits available

Hope this is helpful.
 
I know I am not as passionate or knowledgeable as many of you at this forum, but I would consider 600 grit to be a coarse grit for steel blade knife sharpeners.
Do you know you can get hair whittling edge with #600 diamond plate?
 
I know I am not as passionate or knowledgeable as many of you at this forum, but I would consider 600 grit to be a coarse grit for steel blade knife sharpeners
That all depends on which grit rating standard is being used. A quick look at the grand unified grit chart, in the stickies at the top of this forum, shows the 600 grit can be anywhere from 10 to 30 microns. Depending on the standard being used. In the JIS standard 600 grit is 29 microns. In the FEPA-F standard 600 grit is 10 microns. Both are very commonly used standards. A DMT corse stone is listed as 45 microns, a fine is 26 microns, and an extra fine is 9 microns.

O.B.
 
Here it is.
Another roler sharpener from Germany made by superior german technology and reviewed by very experienced german knife sharpener and user.
Knife flawlessly cut paper and tomato after sharpening.
Amazing.
But... probably knock-off because it's mimicking original horl sharpener.

 
That all depends on which grit rating standard is being used. A quick look at the grand unified grit chart, in the stickies at the top of this forum, shows the 600 grit can be anywhere from 10 to 30 microns. Depending on the standard being used. In the JIS standard 600 grit is 29 microns. In the FEPA-F standard 600 grit is 10 microns. Both are very commonly used standards. A DMT corse stone is listed as 45 microns, a fine is 26 microns, and an extra fine is 9 microns.

O.B.
This info is helpful, but not always welcome. I like standards that are standards. Old school I know. I do thank you for posting this.
Do you happen to know if what I mentioned above is correct ? That diamond grit sintered can only go up to about 1200 grit ? (I don't remember how many microns).
I just want to have sharp knives.

For examples of the above confusion; The basic definition of steel is : iron with carbon and possibly other metals. Yet knife steel is listed as carbon-steel, stainless steel (added chromium), and countless other steels with various alloy mixtures, but in many cases, the bottom line can be the Rockwell hardness (yay, something seems to be consistent) resulting from the heat treatment. But, I know I could be wrong about that also.
 
This info is helpful, but not always welcome. I like standards that are standards. Old school I know. I do thank you for posting this.
Do you happen to know if what I mentioned above is correct ? That diamond grit sintered can only go up to about 1200 grit ? (I don't remember how many microns).
I just want to have sharp knives.
Again, It depends on what scale we are talking about. I wish there was one standard that every manufacturer of sharpening stones used. But there isn't. It almost seems like each manufacturer makes up their own grit rating. It's not quite that bad, but almost. Micron size of the grit, when available, is the closest we have to a universal standard. Mr.Wizard has put a lot of work into compiling the Grand Unified Grit Chart. It's a great resource. I suggest using it.

O.B.
 
This info is helpful, but not always welcome. I like standards that are standards. Old school I know. I do thank you for posting this.
Do you happen to know if what I mentioned above is correct ? That diamond grit sintered can only go up to about 1200 grit ? (I don't remember how many microns).
I just want to have sharp knives.

For examples of the above confusion; The basic definition of steel is : iron with carbon and possibly other metals. Yet knife steel is listed as carbon-steel, stainless steel (added chromium), and countless other steels with various alloy mixtures, but in many cases, the bottom line can be the Rockwell hardness (yay, something seems to be consistent) resulting from the heat treatment. But, I know I could be wrong about that also.

Sintering isn't even the right term and diamond applied in the manner shown is, in fact, electroplated, which is classified as a bonded abrasive. It also seems as though you don't have a strong understanding of steel classifications or grit standards.

Grit standards use number values corresponding to average grain size in microns within a certain specified degree of variance and the format type, along with other possible factors. For instance, the European FEPA system uses different grit rating standards for bonded vs. coated abrasives. Any good manufacturer should be specifying the grit rating system they're using, but many like to use numbers that are either unlabeled or (perhaps worse) are completely made up, such as any JIS-type grit value higher than 8000, with manufacturers offering stones using personal estimates that are extensions of that scale. Better information would instead be to give the stats of the grain size in microns and the allowable margin range/percentage, but one rarely finds this. Ideally, bond type and other details such as intended pressure would be noted.

Most grit systems are closer to one another at the lower end of their rating system, and diverge in their numbers as they get finer in grit.
 
Again, It depends on what scale we are talking about. I wish there was one standard that every manufacturer of sharpening stones used. But there isn't. It almost seems like each manufacturer makes up their own grit rating. It's not quite that bad, but almost. Micron size of the grit, when available, is the closest we have to a universal standard. Mr.Wizard has put a lot of work into compiling the Grand Unified Grit Chart. It's a great resource. I suggest using it.

O.B.
Thanks for the link to the Grit Chart ! I can learn from this.
 
Again, It depends on what scale we are talking about. I wish there was one standard that every manufacturer of sharpening stones used. But there isn't. It almost seems like each manufacturer makes up their own grit rating. It's not quite that bad, but almost. Micron size of the grit, when available, is the closest we have to a universal standard. Mr.Wizard has put a lot of work into compiling the Grand Unified Grit Chart. It's a great resource. I suggest using it.

O.B.
I am glad that you find my chart a valuable resource! Please note that the Grand Unified Grit Chart is actually the predecessor and inspiration for my chart, which I named the "Grand Logarithmic Grit Chart" in homage though it is more commonly referenced by its title: Abrasives in Micron Scale.
 
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