Tung Oil Finish: To wax or not to wax

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unky_gumbi

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Aug 28, 2009
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I have a non stabilized maple burl handle that I have given a tung oil treatment,until it wouldn't hold anymore. Although it looks really good as it is, I was wonder on weather I should do a coat of beeswax on top to finish it off.

Here is what it currently looks like
DSC01334.jpg
 
Don't wax it for at least some days. Tung oil cures in two-three days, but it takes over 3-4 weeks to cure completely.
A wax coating will slow this process.
So, let it cure.
After about a month I'd say it's safe to put wax on it.
I finished a pistol grip this way, and it's as new today, after 15 years of shooting.
Didn't use pure tung oil, though, but a product called Tru Oil I highly recommend after seeing how it stands up to years and years of use and abuse.
Didn't follow exactly the instructions that come with it, though, as they lead to a glossy finish while I much prefer a satin one.
BTW, now that it's finished with tung oil, it IS stabilized. Only, with a natural stabilizer insetad of epoxy.
How did you apply it? just the oil, or thick over thin?
 
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I just used a clean rag. I would coat it and let is sit till it soaked the majority of it in, wiped of the excess, let sit for 12 hours and repeat till it wouldn't take any more oil. I gave it a light sanding after the first coat to knock down any fibers that were sticking up before doing the second coat. It has been resting for just shy of 24 hours now, no more seepage coming off the scales now. Don't know if it will still be in my possession in a month though either this one or it's sister knife will be going to the winner of my 1000th post give away
 
BEAUTIFUL BURL! I love what oil finishes do for hardwood burls...

Pure Tung oil does not penetrate wood extremely well when simply applied. It can be drawn in by using a vacuum process which results in one form of "stabilization". I would be hesitant to declare the scales stabilized if you just hand applied the oil. Tung oil FINISH (100's of variations) tend to have thinners added and will penetrate more but likely not completely, especially in a non-porous wood like maple.

If it's pure tung oil, give it a month to cure before waxing. If it's a tung oil finish, check the directions on the can. Personally, I love the addition of beeswax to an oil finish.

my $.02

J-
 
It's 100% pure tung oil from Lee Valley, and thanks for the complement on the beauty of the wood, but that needs to go to Burl Source. Its some of the wood I got from him a while back when he did the special offer to new makers. That wood has added some much needed beauty to my meager knife making skills. I can get the steel looking good, but my wood working skills are lacking:o They are getting better with each knife though
 
You should take the credit for the beauty of the wood. You took a mediocre piece and made it look great. Good job on this handle.
 
I think you may have been confused when you sent me that wood:), yes it looked plain, but I split the block into 4 scales and once the oil hit it, the woods true beauty jumped to the surface. If this is what you call mediocre wood I really have to get some of your good stuff:thumbup:
 
Patrice Lemée;8344007 said:
A quick question. What happened with the pins (black circles)? Did you overheat them?
Click to expand...

yeah:o joys of only having a CT 30X1 belt grinder, its not quite as visible now, but close ups and bright light does bring it out
 
No need for the grinder. Use files and then sandpaper backed by a flat bar of steel.
I have a variable speed grinder and I still do it that way.
Such nice woods need to be pampered. ;)
 
I am starting the handle on the second knife today, glued up the liners yesterday morning, and should be gluing and pinning the scales tonight or tomorrow morning, so I will be giving that a try. Going to have to make sure the ice packs are nice and chilled though the elbow is getting a workout leading up to my surgery date, I want to get all my projects cleared before that and I just got asked to do 2 more.
 
Next time, try thinning the oil 1:1 with turpentine (but lighter fluid will do), and apply it with 12 hours to dry between coats, until the wood takes in no more.
Then apply pure oil and let it cure.
If you can vacuum the diluted phase of the application, even better.
HomeBru is right: unless the wood is well soaked, I wouldn't call it stabilized either.
It's anyway a hell lot more protected than raw wood.

Also, some oily woods like cocobolo won't soak in any oil. They are already oily (and poisonous, BTW) so only the finishing coat is necessary.
 
Yes I would agree that tung oil is not stabilized, to me stabilized means the wood is infused with some sort of polymer or acrylic resin to fully harden the wood, but the tung oil makes a real nice finish. My next 3 knives are being done with true stabilized wood, I have this piece in my hands and 3 more on the way

DSC01342.jpg


Not the best picture, the cuts are square and the color is much more vibrant then the picture is showing.
 
Stabilized just means the wood won't react negatively to environmental changes. Lineseed, tung oil and lacquering have all been great ways to stabilize natural materials for quite some time.
True, the degree of stability and duration of the treatment won't be that of an autoclave-made epoxy stabilization, but they do stabilize pretty well nonetheless, if done properly, and with a minimum of maintenance they'll last dozens of years. Even centuries. And I much prefer the traditional way.
 
So now I have a new problem. I am using gorila glue on these knives and on the second one a scale lifted just enough to be visible on the lower front corner
Would it be acceptable to use some epoxy to fill the gap?
 
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