turning a coote 2x72 into a x2x48?

chknifemaker

chknifemaker

Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
207
OK so I saw a YouTube and the guy said you can turn a Coote 2x72 grinder into a 2x48 grinder and I was wonder first of all has anyone done it?can you do it? and I wanted to know what you guys thought of the Coote grinders?
what do you set ups look like? are they worth the money?
Thanks
 
I really like the Coote and it is well worth the money, The tower is extendable so I assume you could bring the upper wheel down to make a 2 x48, I would have to question why. I have purchased the additional small wheels and they are well worth the money as well. Overall a very solid machine that works well and does not cost a lot. Why go to a 48??
 
Yes he is right there is a drilled out section to lower it if you wanted.. Or you can buy it from Norm as a 2x48 .. But again why ? Belt selection goes way down and the friction goes up so more heat. Which could present a problem finish grinding.
 
A friend maker of mine has made hundreds of the very best finished knives on a Coote. I also say, why change it to a 2 X 48 and make it into a second class machine? Frank
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys!! I don't have a direct reason for wanting 2x48 just though it looked solider than the longer one and wanted the fredom. but I do have another question about the coote grinders. Should I get the 10" wheel or 8" or 6"? I thought the coote 2x72 looked a little weak are they? I really want to be able to do convex grinding on a grinder that I get so has anyone down convex grinds like Ed fowler's on a coote?--Thanks
 
I have a coote. They are solid machines, good bang for the buck, but... The tracking is good, but you can push the belt with the steel. This is with any two wheel grinder, I think. The work height is different if you are hollow, slack, or flat grinding. Your aftermarket options are limited.
 
That's what my friend usually did. He mirror finished all his blades except Damascus, of course. Frank
 
I bought a second hand coote a few years ago and have both the 10" and 8" wheel, with a bunch of smaller idler wheels. I can change from the 10 to the 8 but I have to move the arm down a notch (it was drilled for it). You can change it to a 48 but you would have to drill the hold for the bolt yourself, which is what I might do since I made a mistake recently and bought some 48" belts instead of 72.. It works great for the amount I use it but I will eventually change to a square wheel or something similar.
 
Turning a 2X72 into a 2X48 is like wanting to take a 3/4 ton super-duty truck and turn it into a 1981 Chevy Luv.

I would not recommend that. ;)
 
The 2x72 is not a weak machine. I had the 10" wheel but if you are convex grinding on that machine you have the slack area above the platen. But you also have a area below the platen that has a stiff slack belt area of about 2/3 inch. Now if you went with the smaller wheel you would have a larger area of the lower slack. I like my slack area to be a little stiff. Not sure if you can can grind like fowler on that machine maybe you could ask him or look in last months issue of blade magazine and ask two of his friends that happened to make it in the maker spotlight section.


chknifemaker said:
Thanks guys!! I don't have a direct reason for wanting 2x48 just though it looked solider than the longer one and wanted the fredom. but I do have another question about the coote grinders. Should I get the 10" wheel or 8" or 6"? I thought the coote 2x72 looked a little weak are they? I really want to be able to do convex grinding on a grinder that I get so has anyone down convex grinds like Ed fowler's on a coote?--Thanks
Click to expand...
 
I have a 10" Coote, bought before he predrilled the column. An eight inch wheel is better if you want to taper tangs and shape handles. The 10 makes a flatter hollow grind, which is fine, even good, on blades, but a pita if you want to do tangs and handles.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top