Turning my barkriver from convex to normal v grind?

[bushcraft]

Hi guys

I decided to turn my bark river aurora and north star into a v grind.

I will do it on a normal diamond stone. I will not flatten the whole blade, just the the edge.

Has anyone done it?
Do you foresee any problems?

 

[pitdog]

Do you mean a convex to normal ?Why would ya do that ?

 

[bushcraft]

I think the rounded edge is not as good for wood carving.

 

[hollowdweller]

bark rivers aren't scandi.

 

[pitdog]

I think the rounded edge is not as good for wood carving.

I don't own a Barkie but I do own an ML which seems to be about the same edge profile and that cuts great, it maybe doesn't bite in as deep as a Scandi but but very close and better than any of my regular sabre ground knives.
Are ya sure it just doesn't need a good sharpen ?

 

[bushcraft]

bark rivers aren't scandi.

Sorry, I meant convex.

Thanks

 

[bushcraft]

I don't own a Barkie but I do own an ML which seems to be about the same edge profile and that cuts great, it maybe doesn't bite in as deep as a Scandi but but very close and better than any of my regular sabre ground knives.
Are ya sure it just doesn't need a good sharpen ?

Thanks pitdog.

It shaves hair and yet it will slip on hard wood. I have a scandi killam that cuts much better than my rivers

 

[August West]

I'd sell the barkies and buy what I wanted. But if I was dead set on changing them I'd start with a lansky. Chris

 

[bushcraft]

I'd sell the barkies and buy what I wanted. But if I was dead set on changing them I'd start with a lansky. Chris

I dont want to sell them because I like the steel and blade shape and everything.

 

[Chris Pierce]

I was actually in the process of turning my Black Jack Grunt into a normal v grind when I found this thread. What I plan on doing is just sharpening it on a flat stone or my sharp maker whenever it needs it. Eventually it will loose its convex grind.
I generally prefer a convex edge, but only if its a nice thin edge. The Grunts edge is kind of thick so I need to thin it out some and then I may go back to convex eventually.

 

[hollowdweller]

why not just reduce the bevel on the convex???

I have a few barkies where they are ground to a near zero edge and they cut wood as well as any scandi grind knife.

 

[paleojoe]

I agree, why not narrow the edge geometry on the convex to allow more acute angle first? Then see how that performs.
To have a decent performing scandi edge, you'd have to take it up to the primary bevel. That's alot of steel to remove.
Besides, the convex would probably cut better than a v-grind on the edge, as you create a secondary bevel this way.

I'd buy a couple of scandi mora's for 20$ and keep the convex BRK. I also prefer less handle contour when I whittle, the Mora handle, as other carvers/whittlers/scandi's have a nice round, full handle. I agree, the scandi edge is a better whittler, but a convex is a better general use grind. I convex the edge a little on my scandi's, this works well.

The Aurora also has a scandi cousin, the Nebula, if you like the style. They are very similar in handle and blade shape.

 

[J_Curd]

Thanks pitdog.

It shaves hair and yet it will slip on hard wood. I have a scandi killam that cuts much better than my rivers

Roughen the edge some, the polished edge is probably the culprit...leave a bit more "tooth" on the edge and it should do both tasks well.

 

[Stickman]

I would agree with HD and PJ, just thin down the convex curve...make the radius flatter...and I'll bet you will get what you're looking for and still have the strength and easy touch-up of a convex. I've done this on all my Bark Rivers and Fallknivens...for my use the factory grinds were too thick.

 

[dbltap45acp]

I have a couple knives from Ray Laconico that are 1/4" 5150 and shave with ease. He also slims the edge down though. They cut like a skinny knife, but its all edge geometry. See about sending it to Ray, or back to BRKT and tell them what you want.

 

[Gossman Knives]

Thanks pitdog.

It shaves hair and yet it will slip on hard wood. I have a scandi killam that cuts much better than my rivers

This was brought up in another thread. With a convex, you have to start your cut at a higher angle. When it starts to bite in, lower the spine as you push forward.
Scott

 

[Gossman Knives]

I would agree with HD and PJ, just thin down the convex curve...make the radius flatter...and I'll bet you will get what you're looking for and still have the strength and easy touch-up of a convex.

This is exactly what I do when I grind a blade. I flat grind first to thin the geometry above the edge, then convex. 75% flat, 25% convex. This gives you the benefits of a convex grind with better cutting ability.
Scott

 

[trailside22]

Keep the convex. I totally agree with Scott. It sounds as if the convex is a little thick for your liking. Thin it out, not a big deal. If you must do a V-grind do it on one and try it. I vote keep the convex and tweak it a little.

 

[Dannyboy Leather]

Post expired.

 

[J_Curd]

I agree with your addendum entirely, but that wasnt my context.

Given all things constant with the original post, a toothier edge will slip less than a polished edge.