Turning scandi knives into full convex?

[lonestar1979]

I have completely reground couple Helle and Mora knives into full and 3/4 convex.These knives cut and slice well, and are pretty durable too.Any opinions?

 

[Bo T]

I think it is a good idea. But, I also believe you can accomplish something similar by convexing a thin strip along the edge. Although, thinking about it, the full or 3/4 would probably look better.

 

[Bighaze51]

I actually did that to my mora hd a week or so ago. It is an extreme slicer now. I think, for my purposes anyways, it is a huge improvement over the Scandi grind. I use that knife at work every now and then for slicing up cardboard and it just sails right through now without that abrupt shoulder

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

What issues were you having before, with the original Scandi grind?

Reason I ask, I recently bought a Helle 'Dokka' Scandi folder with a laminated blade, and it's factory edge was less than fully apexed. It looked pretty good, but didn't cut well. I spent a good deal of time grinding down the bevels to fully apex the edge (WIDE bevels means a lot of metal to remove, to thin the apex just a little bit), after which it's a slicing demon. Edge grind appears to be 17°-19° inclusive on my knife. The 'shoulders' of the factory bevels are not fully crisp, but radiused a bit, which took the hard corner off.


David

 

[lonestar1979]

I had issues with hard transition from cutting edge to spine.It performs much better now.These knives hold edge well,in my opinion the factory grind could be higher up, still zero ground like on some Kellam knives Ive seen.

 

[awestib]

What issues were you having before, with the original Scandi grind?

Reason I ask, I recently bought a Helle 'Dokka' Scandi folder with a laminated blade, and it's factory edge was less than fully apexed. It looked pretty good, but didn't cut well. I spent a good deal of time grinding down the bevels to fully apex the edge (WIDE bevels means a lot of metal to remove, to thin the apex just a little bit), after which it's a slicing demon. Edge grind appears to be 17°-19° inclusive on my knife. The 'shoulders' of the factory bevels are not fully crisp, but radiused a bit, which took the hard corner off.


David

I find particularly cutting cardboard shows the inferiority compared to my zero convex, also in the kitchen it is beeing outperfomed. Soften the shoulders makes a big difference, similiar to "rounding" the shoulder on a v bevel.

 

[HeavyHanded]

One of the things I noticed - my thinner stocked Scandi, like my 3" Mora classic, perform much better for EDU than the larger patterns made from thicker stock as measured at the spine. Thinning out the area above the shoulder on my larger Scandis made a big difference in how well they cut, but is a lot of work.

 

[Bill1170]

Removing the shoulders on a scandi or low flat saber ground blade makes a huge difference cutting corrugated cardboard. Food likewise, especially hard cheeses. There is a reason why most decent kitchen knives in the West are full flat ground. The large flat bevels on a scandi ground knife are useful for control when carving wood, but hamper through-cutting performance in stiff media.

 

[popedandy]

Removing the shoulders on a scandi or low flat saber ground blade makes a huge difference cutting corrugated cardboard. Food likewise, especially hard cheeses. There is a reason why most decent kitchen knives in the West are full flat ground. The large flat bevels on a scandi ground knife are useful for control when carving wood, but hamper through-cutting performance in stiff media.

I had some scandi knives a few years ago that I tried using in the kitchen. It was doable, but when I cut vegetables it was more like splitting than slicing. The exception was a Mora - it was thin enough that it worked just fine. I still have a couple of scandis that I use when I am hiking and camping and not doing much food prep, but I use other blades for the kitchen.