Interesting.
On my "warmup" Folly, the cho appears to be about 1" from where the bolster would end if it were traditional and .75" as it is now. I grabbed a few other khuks off the workbench that were near it for a quick comparison:
17.5" WWII villager: the same.
16.5" chiruwa AK: 1.25" to the "crease" of the bolster, .75" to the top.
15" BGRS villager: the same as the FF.
17" M43: about .75" to the crease, .5" to the top.
Jange: 1" to the bolster. (Traditional bolster.)
Now I'm going to have to go through the entire collection and document it. Thanks, Norm.

I'll try to get it done this weekend. Perhaps this is the making of a new thread? Model, maker, bolster style, handle style, and distance from the cho to point "A" (the edge of the bolster, regardless of style) and point "B" (if habaki) and "era" of manufacture ought to cover the specifics. If enough people participate it might be statistically meaningful.
FWIW, while I like the look of less cho creep and a non-habaki bolster more, I'm thoroughly unconvinced that it has any effect on performance. Looks are nice, but most of my users are anything but pretty.

It doesn't keep them from doing their jobs, thereby proving a theory of mine: you don't have to look cool to be cool.
For our two lucky forumites who have FF's on the way: we'll be expecting a full review and hopefully some pics, of course. (Bonus points for an etch.) Inquiring minds want to know.