Two handed Kuk...

Hi everyone,

I have been thinking lately (always leads to trouble) and was wondering about trying to design a two handed khukuri. After working with the 25" Kobra, I thought it would be better (for me) if the handle area was about 10-12" long, suitable for a two handed grip, thus allowing both of my skinny arms to work the blade better for MA/self defense.

Now I have always been a sword/knife person, but the Khuks kind of fall in between both groups. Does anyone have thoughts on this who is more experienced than I in the actual use of a sword? Would it be possible to special order a khuk with a 12" handle.

Just thinking out loud...

Alan

------------------
When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
Do a search on re-enforced cuts, this might give you some ideas on how to use a large khukuri.

Will
 
I have been playing around on the computer with the UBE design. Not really changing much but the handle length and stretching the blade length out some (25" or so)... but it might actually be better on the 25" Kobra... that wouldn't require much of a change.

Unfortunately, I can't run my old CAD program on my Macs, or it would have been done by now.

Uncle, maybe if I send a bunch of Sturgis Rally tee shirts along with my order their feelings wouldn't be hurt that I played with the original (excellent) design. I am not above a well placed bribe and thought of the gift a few weeks ago anyway. It would be a good time to send them along
biggrin.gif


Alan

------------------
When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
Hmmmm....a 30 inch long YCS with 10 inch handle.....with the fullering, this should not be as heavy as it appears, but would still be an interesting piece.....

 
:
Harry "That" would definitely be a Janawar Katne!!!!
biggrin.gif



------------------
Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
And it would just beg to be fully engraved and brass/copper inlays in the blade and lots of inlay in the wooden handle...

I think we may have something here....
 
Hi Alan, I'm new here but am the proud owner of a HI kuk, with another one on order. I have quite a bit of weapons training in the martial arts, both practical and show. I personally find a two hand grip on larger implements of destruction to work very well. I've used swords and short and long staffs. Speed and accuracy are both excellant. I've also been pondering a two handed kuk. 38 years of hammering and general abuse to my self, my wrists aren't what they once were so I say go for it if the exceptional kamis of HI will buy into it. Gary

------------------
Gary
 
Hello Gary and welcome to the Cantina
smile.gif

Black Bear is a cool forum name.

------------------
The khukuri village idiot
 
Hi Gary,

Sorry for my poor manners, I got a little excited while posting...

Welcome to the cantina and thank you for your input. My wrists are probably in similar shape as yours. I have suffered through three motorcycle accidents in my youth and some other pounding to boot. My grip strength has suffered from all of the abuse, so the two handed idea popped up in my head for more control. That, and my love of long bladed instruments
smile.gif


I will get to work playing with a design. If I can track down a good dremel tool in a pawn shop (good idea Wal) I will even give a try at a model.

BTW... what is good stock to use for the models... just a regular 2x4, or do other woods work better. It has been some years (high school) since I have done any woodworking...

Thanks!
 
Will,

I tried a search for re-enforced cuts in the archives and didn't find anything...

I'm off to play with the YCS on steroids theory
smile.gif


Alan

------------------
When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
:
Alan I use as straight a grained white pine 1" by whatever is needed as I can find. Most of the time a 1"x 4" is sufficient, but with more "drop" or a wider blade a 1" x 6" or even 8" might be in
order.
That way you don't have so much material to take off the
blades.
Then I use either a piece of the board I have cut away or plywood and glue it onto the handle are to make it as thick as needed.
It's a good idea to make sure the thin areas such as guards and the like don't run with the same grain as the blade because it will break too easily.
I use several different size knives to rough out the piece,but then I have the advantage of having the Grizzy Knife Grinder to sand it to pretty close to finish.
My Dremel comes in handy too.
And if you can find a Ryobi tool that's similar to the Dremel except it has a slightly offset top and the on/off switch and speed control are 2 different switches.
I prefer my Ryobi over the Dremel Hands Down!!!!
It seems I have much better control with it and that's even with having a flex shaft on the
Dremel!!!!

The guard on the southwestern Scagel Bowie is what's holding me up now.
I may have to get a piece of branch with the grain running the way it needs to in order too not break off on its way to Nepal or use a piece of hardwood.
frown.gif


If only a feller had a way to stabilize the wood models it would cure a host of details that has to be worked around.
Hope this helps.
biggrin.gif



------------------
Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Do you think applying several coats of a polyurethane (or epoxy 'something'?) would help provide additional overall surface strength? Then after that paint the model as you had planned.

------------------
The khukuri village idiot

[This message has been edited by billpaxton (edited 06-26-2001).]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top