Two handed Kuk...

I would like what I think of as a "hand and a half" sword. I believe this would have a 16" blade and a 10" handle (short HI katana with a thicker blade?). I believe a short sword this size would be light enough for one-handed use, or two for those really hard/deep/controlled cuts. A slightly shorter Tarwar with a guard would work just fine, as well...
 
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Bill the polyurethane might help on some of the thinner stuff and perhaps even with skinny pieces that are cut against the grain, but it's a long haul to Nepal and we all know the results of the handling package get from the amount of khukuris that are damaged in shipement.
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I think that taking ones time and doing it correctly is the best bet for longevity of the wood models.
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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Yvsa,

Thanks for the info. I went shopping last night to price out Dremels... unfortunately I couldn't find one in the local pawn shops. I am going to Rapid City tomorrow to pick up some equipment for the studio, so I'll pop into a couple of places to see if they have any on hand. If I find a Ryobi, I'll take a look-see. I have never seen one, but I know Ryobi's other tools are very good...

The brakes in my Caravan just went out, so I will have to fix them before moving on the model. But that will give me time to work it out on the computer. I'm looking forward to this project
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Will,

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

Alan

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When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
This is to Alan and Yvsa,
Concerning wood models and strength. Good straight grained white pine (as Yvsa suggested) is what professional pattern makers use for a model of something that may be cast. Try and pick a board with the annular rings being as close to perpendicular to the face of the board as possible. As far as incorporating a guard use two separate pieces, each being half of the guard(left & right sides)cut a groove on the blade/handle part and notches in the two guard pieces so they will fit in on both sides, come together for glueing. I hope that is clear enough to help. For wood that is stronger but a bit tougher to work, I would use Ash. Ash is used for baseball bats, snow shoes, bows, sled runners, etc. It is very stable as far as moisture is concerned as well as strong as hell. As was already mentioned epoxy is the coating that you want to apply it adds a great deal of strength. I've used it on 19th century ship restoration projects. Hope this helps gotta get back to work.
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Gary
 
Gary,

Thanks. An ash model would be a tough bugger and probably survive the trip to Nepal. I'll check into it when I start getting stuff together...

Alan
 
Welcome Gary I am also here and though I am also new to weaponry (well I'm new to quality weaponry) I am finding the Idea of a two handed kuk very intersting.
 
Alan,

I have been mentally playing with a design that definately parallels your ideas. It is for a 24" bladed UBE with a chiruwa style grip, 12" long. The blade would have the single wide fullers of the Gelbu Special and be 3" wide at the area of percussion. The idea is to have a two-handed proposition in a relatively compact format with the efficient cut and thrust characteristics of the UBE. I have a GREAT special order UBE Sanu made that is around 21.5" overall -

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum65/HTML/000122.html

Sanu used an ancient design approach to the handle : while it looks somewhat oversized, it facilitates using two hands without an increase in length and much weight. It is not as efficient as a longer handle though. As soon as I can fulfill a commitment or two, I am going to order one in the long-handled sword style.

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"To Know and to Act are One"
 
Finn,

Talk about a UBE on steroids... WOW!

That is the basically the idea that I've been playing with (yours). I was thinking originally of keeping the blade width to 2 - 2.5", fullered and @ 22 - 24" long with a 12" handle. This would fit me about right. The reach wouldn't be as good as say the katana, but it would be very quick and allow more control than a standard Khuk while inside.

I was attracted to the UBE's cut/thrusting ability right off and thought this would be the best design to play with.

Although, the 25" Kobra or a YCS (especially decked out like Harry was imagining) would make cool versions too.

I found out that my brakes won't be AS expensive as I originally thought. Maybe I can start on a model after my next paycheck.

Regards,

Alan

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When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
Alan,

You might be able to get away with just having Uncle tell the Kamis to make a UBE that is 36" long overall with one third of the length being the handle, and take it as it comes. It would probably work out fine. Uncle of course, will have his own thoughts on this.

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"To Know and to Act are One"
 
GASP!!! But that would deny me the pleasure of playing with wood... and sharp spinny tools... and glue, paint and other things that I don't EVER get to play with anymore! I have visions of becoming a famous HI model maker... maybe even (dare I speak it)... Royal HI Model Maker
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If my present employment falls through, I will need another skill to fall back on. Uncle, does Gelbu need any help over in Nepal? I could help interpret all the crazy ideas the formites think up... I would probably have to learn to speak Nepalise first though... but I'm a quick learner.

Besides, with my luck, Sher would come back for a brief visit and make me a 9lbs UBE, then I would have to go and work out just to pick it up
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Alan

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When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
Hmmm... throw in the occasional roasted goat and I'm in
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It might be time to get back to the basics...
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Alan
 
I will have to get started on that model ASAP then. I will do a good job and secure a place for myself in Nepal. I can hear my calling... well, calling me
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I searched all the pawn shops in Rapid City today after my VA visit... no luck on a used Dremel or Ryobi. I guess I will have to concentrate on the computer drawing first and wait for the local Walmart to get theirs in (they were out of the good one).

Alan

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When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
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Alan I bought my Ryobi at a hobby store under a deeeeeppppp discount, $9.97 IIRC.
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Anyway I would try to find one, they really are a much better tool IMO.


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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
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