Two Norse Hawks

[Wolf_1989]

No leuku/puuko?

Actually there's a couple ones made by Jarvenpaa I've been eyeing.

Or Danish battle axe?

Cold Steel had a chance to fill that spot in my arsenal ten years ago with their Battle Axe. Unfortunately the one I got was so warped it was unusable. I'm up for some recommendations though.

 

[Cpl Punishment]

No leuku/puuko?

Actually there's a couple ones made by Jarvenpaa I've been eyeing.

[cough]

[/cough]

 

[Wolf_1989]

Yeah that's one of them:thumbup:

 

[raybateson]

Very nice!

I wish Cold steel's other hawks didn't have big holes in the sides.

In my opinion the hammer suffers the most from this aesthetically. I'm thinking J.B. weld.

My other idea involves drilling a second hole through the opposite side of the socket, affixing the haft, wedging it, then drilling a smaller hole, then burning a soft steel rod through that and peening the ends. That'd look even better. And nothing could be more secure.

 

[Cpl Punishment]

The best way to "remove" the hole is to take a black oxide screw, set screw or cap screw, that is longer than the eye wall is deep, lock it in with red locktite so that the end is sticking inmto the eye.

Now, take a Dremel and grind the part in the eye down flush with the wall (you need to deburr the inside of the eye anyway). Then take a Dremel or bench grinder and grind the top of the screw flush with the outside of the eye. You can now paint over it, or strip the whole head and patina the whole thing (the black oxide screws are not stainless, and will rust/patina).

It's a lot of work to fix something that shouldn't be there. But CS is selling to the LCD, who won't put in the time to properly haft their hawks and do better with just reefing down on a set screw.

You also can't complain that a <$30 tool may be a bit of a fixer-upper.

 

[CitizenQ]

The best way to "remove" the hole is to take a black oxide screw...

Good information thanks. What about the JB Weld method that some fellas have mentioned using?

 

[pullrich]

What about the JB Weld method that some fellas have mentioned using?

I filled the set screw hole on my TH with JB weld. Does a nice job aesthetically, and its easy. However, didnt seem to harden as I expected it to. I found that I could put an indentation in the JB weld pretty easily after it had cured for days. maybe I did something wrong in the application. In any case this didnt trouble me because I just wanted the hole out of sight. But on my latest project, norse hawk, I opted to jam a screw in there and hacked it off fairly flush with the poll. It was harder to pull off since I just had a hacksaw blade, and in the end it does stand out as what it is: a hole with a screw jammed in it and hacked off. This will likely be less obvious if I decide to put a patina on the hawk.

 

[Cpl Punishment]

Good information thanks. What about the JB Weld method that some fellas have mentioned using?

It'll work, but if you want to patina, rather than paint the hawk, the JB Weld method will leave a very prominent "I'm different" spot on the head.

Another way to do it is to drill a hole exactly opposite the one already there, and pound in ans pein over a brass dowel (and grind off the inside). It'll give it an old-timey look and look like you meant to do that.

 

[Wolf_1989]

For now, I have the set screw in Norse Hawk #2. Being as it is in the back of the head, it doesn't bother me much and I don't have it screwed to the point it's biting into the wood.

I've been hacking and wacking all sorts of things with #1 to test the structural integrity and so far it's holding together just fine.

#1 has a brass rod in the set screw hole. I drilled about 2/3 of the way into the wood, epoxied it, and peened the dickens out of it to get it into the threads. I let it set for days before using it to be sure the epoxy was thoroughly cured in there.

If this works, great! But if there's some fail, it's really going to suck if I need to remove that handle.

 

[CitizenQ]

It'll work, but if you want to patina, rather than paint the hawk, the JB Weld method will leave a very prominent "I'm different" spot on the head.

Another way to do it is to drill a hole exactly opposite the one already there, and pound in ans pein over a brass dowel (and grind off the inside). It'll give it an old-timey look and look like you meant to do that.

Thanks for the knowledge bro...where does nore procure a "black oxide screw?" What is a "black oxide screw?"

 

[Cpl Punishment]

Well, I got them at work.

You can order them from most places like MSC Direct, McMaster-Carr, Grainger, even your local hardware store may have some.

Black oxide -- the black colored machine screws -- like the set screw that comes with the hawks -- the black finish is an oxide, like gun bluing (in fact, i think that's exactly what it is) is there to help resist rust. Once you grind off the head and the point inside the hawk eye, it will be shiny and prone to rust and patina.

 

[SoFMercenary]

i have to ask...what method did u use to remove the paint? i wanna do something similar when i get home on leave.

 

[Dusty One]

Nice collection....Fine lookin pooch !

 

[Kenny H.]

You also can't complain that a <$30 tool may be a bit of a fixer-upper.

That doesn't make any sense, not putting a big hole in the side of the head would decrease cost would it not, they have to have some worker take the time to drill the hole and then have another worker affix it to the haft and then set a screw in. The price point explains QC problems sure.

I removed the screw from the few cold steel hawks I've had and they fit fine to the haft without the screw, I would rather have to reshape the haft than do a bunch of refinishing to fix that hole.

 

[CitizenQ]

...not putting a big hole in the side of the head would decrease cost would it not, they have to have some worker take the time to drill the hole and then have another worker affix it to the haft and then set a screw in...

I'd have to agree with this assessment Kenny. :thumbup:

 

[Wolf_1989]

i have to ask...what method did u use to remove the paint? i wanna do something similar when i get home on leave.

I used a vibrating palm sander. That removed just about all of it except for the little spots in the pits which occurred during the drop forging process. I removed those with the steel wire brush attachment on my dremel.

 

[Cpl Punishment]

That doesn't make any sense, not putting a big hole in the side of the head would decrease cost would it not, they have to have some worker take the time to drill the hole and then have another worker affix it to the haft and then set a screw in. The price point explains QC problems sure.

Not really, even using old, manually operated machinery, it'd be easy to drill and tap 120 an hour. You might drop the price $1 per hawk.

I removed the screw from the few cold steel hawks I've had and they fit fine to the haft without the screw, I would rather have to reshape the haft than do a bunch of refinishing to fix that hole.

People who like to mod stuff and are willing to do some work to fi tthe haft are not the LCD that they aim their product at.

Don't get me wrong, I don't like the bolt hole one bit, but I understand why it's there.

What gripes me far more than Cold Steel drilling and tapping a hole in their hawk heads, is that no one else will so much as offer a hawk haft more than 19" long, or size for real hands, not dainty woman hands. For those things, CS is the only game in town, unless you manage to cajole Vec for long enough to get him to let you send a head in to get properly done up.

 

[Wolf_1989]

What gripes me far more than Cold Steel drilling and tapping a hole in their hawk heads, is that no one else will so much as offer a hawk haft more than 19" long, or size for real hands, not dainty woman hands. For those things, CS is the only game in town, unless you manage to cajole Vec for long enough to get him to let you send a head in to get properly done up.

+1 and right on :thumbup:

Some of us are taller than 4'6" and have no interest in tactical bag axes.