Ugh. Need a good t6 driver for removing and swapping para 2 clip..

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knoefz said:
My thoughts exactly, heat up the screw before you try to unscrew it. That should sotfen any loctite in there and keep your torx drivers in good shape.
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How much heat we talking? How do *you* usually heat it up?
 
Crikeyyy Crikeyyy [How much heat we talking? How do *you* usually heat it up?]

See post #12

When reassembling, you don't actually need threadlocker. However, rather than overtorquening out of fear to loose a screw, you may use the weakest Loctite (purple, N° 222). Clean the threads and put only a very small drop on them.
 
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herisson said:
Crikeyyy Crikeyyy [How much heat we talking? How do *you* usually heat it up?]

See post #12

When reassembling, you don't actually need threadlocker. However, rather than overtorquening out of fear to loose a screw, you may use the weakest Loctite (purple, N° 222). Clean the threads and put only a very small drop on them.
Click to expand...
Hey have one question: do you let the tread locker dry before reassembly or put a drop on and assemble right away?
 
woodysone said:
Hey have one question: do you let the tread locker dry before reassembly or put a drop on and assemble right away?
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Depends on the brand of threadlocker Martin, your best bet is to follow the directions on the bottle:thumbsup: Some allow pre-application, some need to be assembled right away and then left alone for 24 hours...all should have the surfaces thoroughly degreased before use though.
 
WValtakis said:
Depends on the brand of threadlocker Martin, your best bet is to follow the directions on the bottle:thumbsup: Some allow pre-application, some need to be assembled right away and then left alone for 24 hours...all should have the surfaces thoroughly degreased before use though.
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I guess I’m a true guy, who doesn’t read directions until to late or are too small to read. Guess I have to learn new ways.:rolleyes:
 
I'm probably in the minority, but I prefer the actual Wiha Precision drivers, instead of the bits. In a work setting, they last FAR longer than the bits do.

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When working on $200,000+ precision wind tunnel models, you don't cheap out on your tools, and quickly learn what's good and what's garbage. I have ~$250 invested in their small drivers (Allen in metric and standard, Allen ball-end in metric and standard, Torx, Philips and slotted, and nut drivers in both metric and standard), and have only ever had to replace one of them in 18 years due to wear/breakage (the smallest Allen they make, 0.028").
 
As many others have said Wiha works,
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much better then Huskey or Harbor freight
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safest way to heat a screw up to loosen thread locker is a soldering iron shouldn't take a lot to just loosen it to be able to remove the screw.
 
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herisson said:
Crikeyyy Crikeyyy [How much heat we talking? How do *you* usually heat it up?]

See post #12

When reassembling, you don't actually need threadlocker. However, rather than overtorquening out of fear to loose a screw, you may use the weakest Loctite (purple, N° 222). Clean the threads and put only a very small drop on them.
Click to expand...
God I am losing my mind more and more everyday. Don't know how I missed that one post
 
Don't hurry... I'd hate to come off as a smart ass here because it took me 40 years plus to get there. Still, the secret to "not messing up things" is "take your time, take information, think about it,....". A good wrench is a good start, of course. But if it is strong enough, you might rip out the loctited threads. Not what you wanted... A cheap wrench should do the trick. If it doesn't, there's threadlock involved. Heat the head of the screw and apply again some mild torque. It will give way, in the end. Don't be impatient. Don't overheat, don't overtorque... Well, you know, be cool with the mechanics you like.
 
So I got my wiha in today: very nice quality!

The difference is night and day. Cracked loose the screws with ease

Thanks to everyone for your help, it was very much appreciated
 
I used a Wiha 1/4" bit in my magna tip handle to open two para 2's that had red loctite. The torx bit did fine, didn't strip any fastner and the magna tip gave great torque as well as the ability to apply downward pressure.
 
The fanciest and "best" if unnecessarily over the top are prolly the screwdriving products made by PB Swiss Tools ("For Professional Clients Only"). Their huge specialist catalog coupled with the restricted/exclusive availability is seriously off-putting to private end consumers like us (and you can't brag about owning their products because the brand is not as known as Wera, Wiha, BMW, Audi) but anyone in the HQ market (knowing Victorinox) imho should be aware of their extreme quality offering :thumbsup: (Made In Swiss > made in geman, agreed).
Personally I enjoy supporting popular national manufacturers which are local to me like Proxxon or Wera, with high regional availability, low cost of spare parts, immense second-hand market, and direct/easy contact. Every pro around me knows, has, and uses Wera, so i feel better about myself using what everybody else (all pro's!) uses too. I wouldn't be happy using a more expensive, superior, exclusive tool which gets snubbed by every colleague.

Anyway, if i lived in the States i wouldn't bother with imported tool brands like Proxxon/Wera/Wiha/Gedore but go with the great national stuff of Milwaukee Tool company :cool:
 
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I live in the States and own Wiha bits. What I don’t do is wake up threads that died in Oct of 2019, lol
Hopin he got it out by now......
 
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