Ultra Slim Titanium and LC200N 110

[Insipid Moniker]

So... You're suggesting that this Spyderco, with its frame-lock, .11" thick sheepsfoot blade that is both thinner and nearly a half an inch shorter is the answer to the OP's idea?? The only things it has in common is the materials. That's like suggesting someone looking for a pair of jeans would be happy with a denim jacket...

On the "super-steel" topic, is it wiser to have a steel that will hold an edge longer, or one that is easier to sharpen? I prefer the easier to sharpen steel myself. Longer edge retention is great, but if you assume it's going to hold up and it doesn't, then what? Say you're on a week long outback hunt. Do you pack your super-steel and the diamond system in the event you have to sharpen it; or do you pack a pedestrian steel and a stone? What if you forget or lose your sharpening system? Can you sharpen the super-steel on a creek rock like you can 420?

I guess I'm old school in that the better tool is the one you don't need supporting tools for. I would carry something fancy to the office, but for work it's going to be something easily serviced.

Doesn't take me any longer to sharpen K390 or S30V than it does 420HC. It's often quicker, in fact, because I don't have to contend with a big, floppy burr. As for diamonds, mine ride in my wallet. Personally, if I have to start coming up with more and more extreme hypothetical situations to make X sound more desirable than Y, I usually just accept that Y is probably more desirable.

 

[JAGcustomknives]

I am pretty hard on my knives in the woods and S30v is a little brittle for hard use I think. (Think 6" fixed blade) It would probably be even more wise for me to have a Punk or something 5160, but I have not yet made that purchase.
An old Intrepid chisel tip is my go to knife for backpacking and a Koji ATS-34 that I've made a neck knife is my small carry in the woods.
Strictly opinion based on personal experience.