Umnumzaan Disappointment

I don't have an Umnumzaan but the O rings may be part of the problem. Since they are one of 3 points of contact that creates the lock up, I would imagine that new O rings may solve the problem.
 
O-rings squash out of the way in the thumbstud grooves. They shouldn't be affecting lockup, only soften the impact. I can take the O-rings off of my Umnunzaan with no change in lockup.
 
How much pressure are you placing on the blade to induce the "Rock lock?"
 
When I test for lock-rock, I use as much pressure as I safely can. I don't daintily grab it with my finger tips and call it solid.
Sure, I may be using more pressure than I would experience during an accident that stresses the lock, but the more you know about your particular knife, the better. It's not like it is hurting the knife.
 
Is the lock bar flexing or slipping when you put negative pressure on the blade. What percentage is it locking up at? Where on the blade tang can you see the ceramic ball locking up at.
Since your still pretty new to knives you shouldn't risk it but a possible solution would be putting more spring tension on the lock bar so it locks up later.
 
Is the lock bar flexing or slipping when you put negative pressure on the blade. What percentage is it locking up at? Where on the blade tang can you see the ceramic ball locking up at.
Since your still pretty new to knives you shouldn't risk it but a possible solution would be putting more spring tension on the lock bar so it locks up later.

As far as I can tell the lockbar isnt flexing or slipping. I dont wanna start messing around with the lockbar tension, rather send it in and get it done. Dont wanna mess up my first CRK:D
 
Marginal lock slip is inherent on ceramic ball lockups from my own experiences. I've owned 4 zaans and handled numerous more at a crk dealer and they are all the same. If you crank on the blade hard enough the ceramic ball contacting the blade tang will slip around. This isn't real blade play and the lockup won't fail. Sending it in to crk will accomplish nothing unless you have true blade play and got a lemon. They will probably just increase the lockbar tension to make it harder for you to detect the lock slipping and create pain in your thumb.
 
I didn't read all of the posts in this thread, but I have to ask, did you contact the seller and explain the problem and then contact CRK to get the ball rolling on the warranty before you started this thread and before you took it apart and tried to fix it yourself?
 
I hope this all gets resolved.
There are days where I just love the friction folder or a good 'ole slip joint.
rolf
 
Well, I just think the lock rock is an issue with the detent ball knives, i.e.: 25 and Zaan. All of the Zaans I have owned(6) have had it and my 25 had it. the ceramic ball is the only thing contacting the tang, so it's bound to happen.
 
Well, I just think the lock rock is an issue with the detent ball knives, i.e.: 25 and Zaan. All of the Zaans I have owned(6) have had it and my 25 had it. the ceramic ball is the only thing contacting the tang, so it's bound to happen.

Thats astounding to hear:eek: 6 zaans all with the same issue! maybe mine isnt just a one off then. Can anyone tell me what the actual purpose of the detent ball is instead of just a normal lock face like most others?
 
Thats astounding to hear:eek: 6 zaans all with the same issue! maybe mine isnt just a one off then. Can anyone tell me what the actual purpose of the detent ball is instead of just a normal lock face like most others?

On standard Walker linerlocks (and framelocks), the small detent ball fits into a small hole in the blade when closed, and the lockbar pressure keeps the ball in the hole, keeping the blade closed. Michael Walker modified the original linerlock that used a slip-joint style back-spring to keep the knife closed, by removing the back-spring and adding the simpler ball detent as the method for keeping the blade closed.

Slowly close you knife and right before it closes all the way you will see the blade get sucked closed. That is the ball detent falling into the detent hole in the blade.
 
On standard Walker linerlocks (and framelocks), the small detent ball fits into a small hole in the blade when closed, and the lockbar pressure keeps the ball in the hole, keeping the blade closed. Michael Walker modified the original linerlock that used a slip-joint style back-spring to keep the knife closed, by removing the back-spring and adding the simpler ball detent as the method for keeping the blade closed.

Slowly close you knife and right before it closes all the way you will see the blade get sucked closed. That is the ball detent falling into the detent hole in the blade.


While this is true about the ball being used as a detent, in regards to it being the contact point on the lockbar, the reasoning is that the ceramic ball is very hard (90rc?) and will never wear, gall or deform like the softer titanium lockface would against the harder blade tang (58-59rc). Any CRK knives without the ceramic ball have heat treated (I believe) lock faces, and due to proper geometry and tight tolerances do not seem to suffer much lock bar travel anyways, but with the ceramic ball, after the knife settles in is should never become an issue.
 
While this is true about the ball being used as a detent, in regards to it being the contact point on the lockbar, the reasoning is that the ceramic ball is very hard (90rc?) and will never wear, gall or deform like the softer titanium lockface would against the harder blade tang (58-59rc). Any CRK knives without the ceramic ball have heat treated (I believe) lock faces, and due to proper geometry and tight tolerances do not seem to suffer much lock bar travel anyways, but with the ceramic ball, after the knife settles in is should never become an issue.

I'm not sure, but I think I was answering the question of what a detent ball is used for on knives that don't use it as the lock-face.
Of course, I may have misunderstood what joeyza was asking.

CRK "carburizes" the titanium lock-face, but I think that simply means they heat it with a torch. This has been done by knifemakers for many years as a method to stop lock stickiness. I'm unaware of a way to through harden 6al4v titanium.
 
I'm not sure, but I think I was answering the question of what a detent ball is used for on knives that don't use it as the lock-face.
Of course, I may have misunderstood what joeyza was asking.

CRK "carburizes" the titanium lock-face, but I think that simply means they heat it with a torch. This has been done by knifemakers for many years as a method to stop lock stickiness. I'm unaware of a way to through harden 6al4v titanium.

yea I was actually asking about the ceramic ball that contacts the lockface, not the detent ball, I know what the detent ball is there for. Umnumzaan is the only knife I know of that uses the ceramic ball on the actual lockbar face. I'm sure there are many more that use this that I'm unaware of. I mistakenly said detent ball instead of ceramic ball in the previous post, my bad. Thanks for the info tho guys appreciate it
 
yea I was actually asking about the ceramic ball that contacts the lockface, not the detent ball, I know what the detent ball is there for. Umnumzaan is the only knife I know of that uses the ceramic ball on the actual lockbar face. I'm sure there are many more that use this that I'm unaware of. I mistakenly said detent ball instead of ceramic ball in the previous post, my bad. Thanks for the info tho guys appreciate it

Oh, then wood-butcher is absolutely correct. I think CRK uses silicon nitride ceramic which you can Google. Ceramic should wear even slower than a steel lock-face insert.
 
Oh, then wood-butcher is absolutely correct. I think CRK uses silicon nitride ceramic which you can Google. Ceramic should wear even slower than a steel lock-face insert.

so if the ceramic ball has such a high hardness level, could it be that it may just take a longer time and many more opening/closing cycles to allow it to wear or break in a fit properly against the tang of the blade? Could the lock lock decrease or disappear once the ceramic ball wears in a bit or is my thinking just completely wrong?
 
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