Uncoated INFI Rust Resistance??

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Apr 21, 2016
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I am considering removing the finish from my TGLB but am concerned about the raw INFI rusting. I dislike the black coating on my TGLB, which has the texture of spray-in bedlinen.

I'd like to hear your experiences with uncoated INFI. Does it rust easy? What do your satin blades look like after some use? If INFI is rust prone I think I'll have it coated in DLC. Does Busse offer a black coating that is similar to their other colors?
 
Rust free for me. Even when swimming and canoeing without taking the knife off my belt!
 
It behaves essentially that of stainless, that's why it needs a coating... for additional rust resistance of course.

We get it. Thanks to your posts on another thread, your opinion has been heard quite clearly today... You don't like Busse coatings.
You can stop with the sarcastic comments spreading to other threads now, please.
 
It behaves essentially that of stainless, that's why it needs a coating... for additional rust resistance of course.

We all know the coating is to save the shop time and money to get the same amount of steel in the customers hand for a cheaper price. Yes it aids in rust resistance but that isn't the main reason and you know it. Stop being Debbie Downer and leave the forum already, don't forget to take your dummy with you.
 
Here you go, from the website, under details

Is INFI stainless?

INFI is technically not supposed to be, however, INFI has demonstrated very high levels of stain resistance in many different climates. Uncoated blades have been tested for years in Alaska and have made their way into the wilds of British Columbia, the High Sierras and tropical rain forests. No rust in Alaska or British Columbia! No rust in the High Sierras, even when exposed to great quantities of blood and left in the wet grass overnight. The tropical rain forest, which has been known to rust plastic (just kidding), did offer the toughest of the environmental exposures and a light speckling of surface oxidation did occur but was easily removed in the field with a hand rubbing of sand and water. No deep pitting was reported. When compared to other cutlery steels in salt spray tests, INFI faired better than ATS-34 and D-2. Although all three grades exhibited surface oxidation, the INFI was not deeply pitted as was common in these other two grades. So, although INFI is not technically a stainless steel, it is certainly not a rust aggressive steel. Couple this with a minimal amount of care and you've got a fairly maintenance free knife.
 
I live in PNW, it rains here for 9 month, I been carrying BIG/Satin NMFSH , in a leather sheath, in the rain/snow. All i do is not leave it in a wet sheath for a while, and never used any oil and such, and its still perfect, no Rust or Patina. YMMV
 
That's good news. I think I will proceed with removing the coating from my TGLB. The questions is do I do it myself or send it to Josh at Razor's Edge.....
 
Depends on what you value more your time or your money, those bead blasted knives he has been turning out have been amazing.
 
I'd like to see some pictures of satin Buss'es after being used.

I think I'll send it to Josh and have him do it right. I plan to leave the blade grind as is. In some instances it would be nice too ave the blade thinned out a little but I like the beef it has for hard use and splitting wood, etc.
 
I am considering removing the finish from my TGLB but am concerned about the raw INFI rusting. I dislike the black coating on my TGLB, which has the texture of spray-in bedlinen.

I'd like to hear your experiences with uncoated INFI. Does it rust easy? What do your satin blades look like after some use? If INFI is rust prone I think I'll have it coated in DLC. Does Busse offer a black coating that is similar to their other colors?
When you strip it make sure to remove the carbonized layer under the coat, that will rust , but not the steel itself.
 
I would definitely do it yourself. You will appreciate it more. And you can always send it off if it isn't pretty enough when you are done.

I didn't take any of the decarb off of my AK and it still looks just like it did right after I stripped it. You can always make it more shiny but going back isn't as simple unless you can blast it.

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All steels will oxidize, chromium helps prevent this reaction. Stainless steels are "relatively" resistant to rust/oxidation because of a high chromium content which is usually arbitrarily defined as 10% by mass. Elmax, a premium stainless steel, for instance has 18% chromium. Infi, depending on the year, has been found to contain between 7% and 9% Chromium. Having said that, of all the tool steels that have anywhere near the same level of toughness, it is head and shoulders above the competition in the corrosion department. Don't forget there is a price for high levels of chromium, and stainless steels at the same hardness will take no where near the abuse that Infi will. I would say that if you can't keep your infi from rusting, you are either using it on seafaring vessel or don't take even minimal care of your gear ;)

I hate to fan the flames, but my vote is also... paint is for walls and cars, Infi is better in any flavor of naked; it does not rust.
 
Never had any rust on mine. Tarnish a bit but you really can't tell until you wipe one down with a little filtz.
 
I am lightly considering having my SOBCG reground. I use 1095 knives all the time and don't think I'd have any issue with the stain resistance of INFI. Josh does great work and has transformed a thick edged knife into a lightsaber like slicer for me before. Only thing holding me back is how good the Muddy Brown coating looks with the Black Paper Micarta handle.

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The only time that rust happens on infi is if you strip it and don't completely remove the decarb layer. A Scotch Brite will get rid of all that jazz and leave a nice finish. I think you will like the results
Don't forget the pics!
 
I did get a few places of oxidation on my Satin Gladius when we were fist stationed in Puerto Rico. Had left them all in their sheaths and when I took it out there were spots on it. Took me some elbow work and Mothers and Flitz but I was able to get it off. No pitting. May just have been a combo of the salt water/humidity in the air and leaving it in the sheath for that to compound everything


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