Uncoated INFI Rust Resistance??

The only time that rust happens on infi is if you strip it and don't completely remove the decarb layer. A Scotch Brite will get rid of all that jazz and leave a nice finish. I think you will like the results
Don't forget the pics!

Oh I will be sure to post pictures. I see the other before/after pictures and can't wait to see what mine will look like naked :)
 
I've heard it depends on the level of satin it is, and that the smoother/shinier it is the more moister beads off. never had any issues washing my infi blades and leaving them in the dish rack and I've left them outside over night on camping trips or on cutting boards after a dinner party. If there's ever been a speck of something a thumb nail takes it off. However my steak knife which is actually a CS AMS does have a bit of a patina, but it looks more like a hamon then anything else.
 
When you strip it make sure to remove the carbonized layer under the coat, that will rust , but not the steel itself.

None of mine have rusted when stripped, even when not cleaned up or smoothed at all.

Your milage may vary.
 
I had the exact same concern..I thought it must just be for collectors that don't intend to use them in the elements..I was wrong...I'm all about bare infi now and all my knives are users. it really is just like a stainless steel. do it..you will love it.
 
Only issue I've had is left over decarb collecting rust. I'm currently carrying my BT6 in the nice humid La weather and so far so good. I'll find out for sure in the summer.
 
I have not had any corrosion issues w/ bare INFI whether bead blasted after market, or their competition and satin factory finishes. Basic care goes a long way in preserving your steel too: always dry thoroughly after use and before storing. I like to wipe the blades lightly w/ tuf cloth.
 
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A short story...............

A few years ago Ban worked his magic on a AK47 for me.

When the blade was sent to me there was some screw up with the USPS shipping and it ended up sitting in a depot in Holland for about a week before it wound its way south. Unfortunately the bin it sat in had water in it and when the package arrived much of the cardboard box was soaked through.

I removed the blade from the sheath expecting the worst! Surprise, surprise..........it had a few tiny surface rust marks. Out came the polish and in less than 5 minutes I had restored it to a perfect finish. If that had been O1 or 1095 the blade would have needed a complete refinish.

Now INFI is not stainless and it can rust but I live 50 yards from the South Atlantic and I have yet to have any problems with any of my satin blades.:)

(That AK is still one of my favourite pieces and it cuts like a light sabre!:D)

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Steven, interesting story and beautiful blade!

I am feeling much more confident about stripping my TGLB after hearing the feedback from all of you.
 
The more and more I keep hearing about stripping coating off INFI. Is pushing me to strip one of my SOB's down to bare INFI :eek::eek: Just been debating on chemical strip and scotch brite off decarb or blast cabinet ?
All the info here has been great !!
 
The more and more I keep hearing about stripping coating off INFI. Is pushing me to strip one of my SOB's down to bare INFI :eek::eek: Just been debating on chemical strip and scotch brite off decarb or blast cabinet ?
All the info here has been great !!

Depends on what look you're after. I had a SHe2 from O2W bead blasted by a friend here our subforum. Blasted and then hand rubbed w/ sandpaper. He put a lot of time and effort into it and it looks great. I'll get a pic up so you can see it. Kinda has that frosted look to it. "Matte shiny" if that makes sense:p

As far as stripping the blade and scotch-brite pads, I have not personally done any yet. As I understand it, it's a surprise as to what kind of work is entailed. I mean that under some CG blades, it's very clean and achieving a homemade Comp. finish or "ghetto satin" is not too difficult. Others are a bit rougher and require more elbow grease. It is well worth it either way, IMO =) I like doing work like that by hand, if feasible. Working for several hours and going through multiple grits of sandpaper and various polishing compounds is very satisfying because I can actually see the end result develop bit by bit.
 
I'm considering a regrind on the saber grind of my SOBCG. Do you guys think the 220 grit will have significant increase in corrosion resistant over 60 grit? Also, I'm just having the grind done rather than stripping the whole blade because I really like the Muddy Brown with the black paper micarta.

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I'm considering a regrind on the saber grind of my SOBCG. Do you guys think the 220 grit will have significant increase in corrosion resistant over 60 grit? Also, I'm just having the grind done rather than stripping the whole blade because I really like the Muddy Brown with the black paper micarta.

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Short answer, yes I believe the more polished the finish, the less chance of corrosion
 
Short answer, yes I believe the more polished the finish, the less chance of corrosion
Might as well go all in I guess. I know Josh will do great work. It just increases the price by 75%

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" Ratman79 "

Hey thanks for the info ! That blade sounds like it came out great, sounds like a modified double cut finish ? I'd be happy with something close to a comp finish. If I stripped it and it happened to have a really rough finish, then maybe sand out or blast it ?
 
" Ratman79 "

Hey thanks for the info ! That blade sounds like it came out great, sounds like a modified double cut finish ? I'd be happy with something close to a comp finish. If I stripped it and it happened to have a really rough finish, then maybe sand out or blast it ?

No prob, happy to help! It did come out like that. The flats have more dimples than a factory comp., but the blast and subsequent polishing really gave it a refined appearance. I was really pleased.

And if you stripped yours and it happened to be rougher than you thought, I'm sure a session or two in the cabinet would smooth things out considerably!
 
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