UPDATE: Post Anvil build

[Josh Rider]

Ever since seeing Rick Marchand’s post Anvil years ago I wanted to try to make one.

It looked interesting because it has a small footprint and still seemed efficient, even with the small face.

Tracking down a large chunk of 4140 proved to be impossible for me locally.
I even looked for busted forklift tines with no luck. After visiting several local scrapyards and recycling places, I was without results. They won’t let people pick around here due to insurance reasons. Even if I bribed the managers.

Most steel places near me would order it for me, but it was pretty expensive and I would have to harden it.
Then I found out from someone (mitch4ging and coldsteelburns) on here that Old World Anvils sells 4x4 chunks already hardened.

With the price of anvils nowadays, new smiths may find this route less expensive.
I contacted Rick Marchand for help.
I found some 1/4” mild steel plate locally and luckily some 5” pipe.
I cut it on the bandsaw, beveled the edge, and welded it to he plate.

I also bought some mild steel about 2” thick from the local steel place to add more mass under the anvil. This mild steel may have even sufficed as a post anvil, but I’m glad to have something hardened.

Anyway, here’s the build.





I’m going to use sand temporarily until I find a comfortable height and then remove it and use concrete. (Rick’s idea).

Thanks Rick for all the help.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Nice! I was thinking about doing this a few months ago. How long is the anvil from OWA? When i called the biggest piece they had was a 5x5x5

 

[Josh Rider]

The longest one they could fit in their kiln was around 11”. This one is 4x4x11.
They still had the 5x5 cube when I bought this one.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Very nice. Thats a good amount of weight under the hammer. Cant wait to see how this works out for you

 

[Tin.Man]

Looks great so far but where is the finished picture??

 

[Josh Rider]

I’m not finished yet. It’s a WIP.
I welded it up earlier. I’ll post more pics later today.

 

[Rick Marchand]

Looking good, brother. Have you checked if the anvil fits in the 5" dia tube? I thought you had 6". My buddy Pythagoras, thinks it won't fit... but what does he know? Those chamfered corners might have taken care of that.

 

[Tin.Man]

I’m not finished yet. It’s a WIP.
I welded it up earlier. I’ll post more pics later today.

Just giving ya a hard time

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

OK, how much was the piece from OWA, and how did you get them to sell that size?

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

OK, how much was the piece from OWA, and how did you get them to sell that size?

Call them. They may or may not have the 11" in stock lady said she would have to check in the shop. $275 shipped. it's 50.5 lbs. She said it's works out to $25 per inch.

 

[HWooldridge]

There are other options besides shafting and tubing. The Brazeal brothers commonly used a piece of A36 plate mounted in an angle iron frame during some of their ornamental forging demos. IIRC, it was about 15" square and 2" thick with several useful shapes ground into the top (fullers, side set, flat).

Some people will tell you that hollow tubing can't be used with concrete fill (plus a welded plate on top) but I've seen hand and treadle hammer anvils filled with concrete and they don't turn to powder. My treadle hammer is 30 years old; has lead in the head and concrete in the anvil - nothing has shaken loose over time. I wouldn't use concrete on a power hammer base but it works fine with "human power".

 

[Kevin McGovern]

i have a piece of 4140 that's 6x6x12. Still trying to figure out how to harden it. At least the face anyway. any ideas? It won't fit in my oven.

 

[Rick Marchand]

There are other options besides shafting and tubing. The Brazeal brothers commonly used a piece of A36 plate mounted in an angle iron frame during some of their ornamental forging demos. IIRC, it was about 15" square and 2" thick with several useful shapes ground into the top (fullers, side set, flat).

Some people will tell you that hollow tubing can't be used with concrete fill (plus a welded plate on top) but I've seen hand and treadle hammer anvils filled with concrete and they don't turn to powder. My treadle hammer is 30 years old; has lead in the head and concrete in the anvil - nothing has shaken loose over time. I wouldn't use concrete on a power hammer base but it works fine with "human power".

Those are striker anvils, used with a striker or striking team. They are usually set much lower to accommodate two-handed sledges. They use A36 or 1020-24 mild steel for safety, in case of a missed strike. Ever hit a hardened anvil with a heavy blow? I have... just about sent the hammer to the ceiling. Not to mention high-speed shards if the hammer or anvil chip.

My post anvil is not hardened and I like it like that. It might not return as much energy but it is really quiet and easy to dress.

I would say that concrete in a power hammer shouldn't be a problem as long as the anvil/die base is welded on top.

My post anvil has reinforced concrete in it. I suggested to Josh that sand would be a good alternative until he settles on a workface height.

 

[Rick Marchand]

i have a piece of 4140 that's 6x6x12. Still trying to figure out how to harden it. At least the face anyway. any ideas? It won't fit in my oven.

Find somebody with a coal forge and ceramic blanket.... and preferably, an electric blower to save your arm.

 

[Josh Rider]

Looking good, brother. Have you checked if the anvil fits in the 5" dia tube? I thought you had 6". My buddy Pythagoras, thinks it won't fit... but what does he know? Those chamfered corners might have taken care of that.

Well, your buddy Pythagoras is a real smarty pants.
He’s right though, I made the mistake of not accounting for the wall thickness.
I figure it’s about 1/8” off. I’m going to try to remove some material around the chamfers.

Ive had several people message me about the price of the anvil. These are not on their website, just email or call them. The price was $266. They have some smaller ones too and a 5x5.

 

[Rick Marchand]

I wasn't worried... a few minutes with an angle grinder. Just make sure it is a slip fit or you'll never get it out again!

 

[Josh Rider]

I’m half tempted to try to make another one with this 2” mild steel lengthwise for a local kid that wants to forge. Not sure how it would hold up though. Might be worth a shot.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

I'm in the process of building a small propane forge, but I just picked up an old beer keg and may make a blown pripanpforge as well. I'd like to see some builds of those but have mostly come up with foundries when I search keg forges.

Find somebody with a coal forge and ceramic blanket.... and preferably, an electric blower to save your arm.

 

[Rick Marchand]

I’m half tempted to try to make another one with this 2” mild steel lengthwise for a local kid that wants to forge. Not sure how it would hold up though. Might be worth a shot.

That is amazingly generous. I make Train Track anvils for local beginners. 2 x 4 would be a decent sized face. It would actually come in handy to have that 2" dimension.

 

[jdm61]

Cool. There used to be a guy who made very nice post anvils. Sea Robin was the brand name IIRC. Unfortunately, they do not appear to be available today. But, that is not an uncommon occurrence for oddball gear that we knifey folks lust after but oft times never manage to buy when such things are available.