UPDATE: Post Anvil build

[HWooldridge]

Those are striker anvils, used with a striker or striking team. They are usually set much lower to accommodate two-handed sledges. They use A36 or 1020-24 mild steel for safety, in case of a missed strike. Ever hit a hardened anvil with a heavy blow? I have... just about sent the hammer to the ceiling. Not to mention high-speed shards if the hammer or anvil chip.

My post anvil is not hardened and I like it like that. It might not return as much energy but it is really quiet and easy to dress.

I would say that concrete in a power hammer shouldn't be a problem as long as the anvil/die base is welded on top.

My post anvil has reinforced concrete in it. I suggested to Josh that sand would be a good alternative until he settles on a workface height.

I've worked as a blacksmith for almost 35 years so am familiar with hard striking faces - my only point in posting was to offer alternate suggestions.

 

[Rick Marchand]

I intend to make a striking anvils.... priced out 4140 steel to make (16) 4 x 6 x 12 anvils. A little expensive but I almost have enough local interest to pull it off.

 

[Josh Rider]

Dry fit without sand.
Rick said his Anvil face is around his junk. Rick I looked all over my machinist book and couldn’t find that measurement. Must be Canadian?

 

[Rick Marchand]

Looks like the base is wiggly.... put a bead of weld on the four corners ... or take a sledge to bend the corners back down. It probably happened when you welded it,

I have my forging area on a 4x6 horse stall mat. The rubber doesn't burn and it saves the concrete floor. I drilled and tapped (4) 3/16 holes in the corners and have bolts that protrude 1/2" through the bottom and into the mat. It keeps things from shifting around.

 

[Josh Rider]

Will either do that or my buddy had an idea to drill 4 holes, weld some nuts on top and use some big bolts for adjustable balances.

ETA: the horse stall mat is a great idea.

 

[Rick Marchand]

read the edit i just made.

 

[HWooldridge]

Dry fit without sand.
Rick said his Anvil face is around his junk. Rick I looked all over my machinist book and couldn’t find that measurement. Must be Canadian?
View attachment 876063

It looks a bit too high for your natural swing - the conventional advice was always knuckle level when standing straight up but I've found this can vary. Heavier work and sledging is typically lower; fine light work is higher. The sand is a great idea for a cushion - you can add or subtract depending on the day's needs. I have seen 400 lb. anvils set in steel boxes that were filled with sand - the anvil settles slightly but just until it finds level. The only problem is if you start twisting around on something in the hardy and it pivots. One way around that is to make the box just big enough to accept the base of the anvil (as you have done here) or you can lock the anvil in the box by pouring a lead ring around the base. 400 lbs. of sand and a like sized anvil makes for a great setup.

 

[Josh Rider]

I have a Fisher Norris that’s about knuckle height. This anvil is left high to find out what’s comfortable for now.
I’m trying different hammering methods because I find myself bending over a lot on the Fisher. I’m going to try Rick’s technique, (you’ll find his videos in the hammer and tongs section of this website).

Thanks for everyone who has replied to this thread, I love hearing new ideas and bringing back good “old” ideas too.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Interested in hearing how you lile the post anvil in comparison to a London pattern for knife making. Ive been debating either a kanca or post anvil in the future

 

[Josh Rider]

Interested in hearing how you lile the post anvil in comparison to a London pattern for knife making. Ive been debating either a kanca or post anvil in the future

I’ll let you know as soon as I get a chance to use it. I don’t use the horn on my anvil very much except for drawing out steel, but I am a beginner at forging.
I have been kicking around the idea of doming one side of this OWA to use like a drawing die and flip it over for flat work. I wouldn’t be able to concrete it in, but I’m thinking the sand will stabilize it enough.
Something like this

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Eh that would kinda be a PITA after a while. Have you thought about a guillotine tool? The length of the anvil is my concern. Having that 9-12 inches is nice for making sure everything is flat

 

[Josh Rider]

This would be more for moving thick stuff. I have some large round stock that doesn’t move very fast by hand.

 

[kuraki]

Just round one edge over with a healthy radius.

 

[HWooldridge]

Just round one edge over with a healthy radius.

+1...Exactly - fuller using the edge of the anvil and the edge of the hammer.

 

[Josh Rider]

Update: I used the post Anvil for a couple hours tonight. A few things I noticed.

1. It was up too high so I need to drop it a few inches. This wasn’t surprising, but my forearm was on fire after a while. My hammer control sucked too because of the fatigue.

2. With the radius on the edge and a rounding hammer, thick steel moved FAST. Faster than me using the horn of my Fisher. I say “me” because others I’m sure are better at forging. Putting a radius on my Fisher is my next move.

3. I like having a larger area on the London pattern anvils for flattening.

So far this has been an AWESOME addition. It wouldn’t replace my Fisher , but it moved steel much faster than I was used to. I’m going to drop it down a few inches and try some more.

 

[Rick Marchand]

Looks good. It is almost impossible to use a higher anvil with the knuckles down grip... that certainly would force you to contort your wrist and strain the forearm. I wouldn't completely dismiss it, though. In fact, because you have your Fisher, I would practice with the higher face while using the grip that suits it. Go slow with a light hammer... maybe 2-2.5lbs. Stand at a 45 to the face, keep your palm down and stand up straight.

Here is a horrible drawing... lol.
For reference... I distinguish Right/Left side by holding the knife edge down, pointing away from me

 

[Josh Rider]

Just like a little drummer boy.
That’s actually a great image, I will try that before lowering it. I need to round my hammer handle too, it’s more squared off so that will help palm down hammering. I need to shave about 3/4 a pound off of it too.
I think 2 maybe 2.25 would be a good hammer weight for me. Matt Gregory told me this before I started forging but in my eagerness I purchased a 3 pounder. I can be stubborn sometimes.

 

[Rick Marchand]

Just like a little drummer boy.
That’s actually a great image, I will try that before lowering it. I need to round my hammer handle too, it’s more squared off so that will help palm down hammering. I need to shave about 3/4 a pound off of it too.

I am a drummer... maybe that's why Hofi's technique kinda resonated with me. A squared off handle works well with the palm down grip. Heavier hammers shouldn't be as much of a problem either, as you are holding the hammer closer to the head. My 2.75lb is my favorite.

I think 2 maybe 2.25 would be a good hammer weight for me. Matt Gregory told me this before I started forging but in my eagerness I purchased a 3 pounder. I can be stubborn sometimes.

What the hell does Matt Gregory know about forging? I heard he just regrinds dollar store spatulas and wraps his handles with 80's style fat laces from his old high-top collection he wore while break-dancing for pop-rocks and grape Fanta.

 

[Josh Rider]

What the hell does Matt Gregory know about forging? I heard he just regrinds dollar store spatulas and wraps his handles with 80's style fat laces from his old high-top collection he wore while break-dancing for pop-rocks and grape Fanta.

Now I know how who keeps him humble lol.

 

[kuraki]

hahaha