Update pre-HT blades pg2 ..Need help , want a paracord cutter built into the tang

[duffy99]

Update ics pre-ht pg2

I'm designing a " jump knife" / EDC knife for paratroopers and line infantryman alike . One of the key features I want is to have a cutter in the tang so you can cut paracord or 1/4" nylon rigging cord without having to unsheath the knife. I was thinking of having it on the top of the tang near the butt at a 45 degree angle . I can cut that out of the tang no problem but sharpening it is where I for see the challenge . Has anyone ever done this, I know some production folders have them . In theory I can cut the angle into the tang and try to sharpen it somehow, or add a utility knife blade into the handle? Any thoughts on engineering this .

 

[fast14riot]

I would think a gut hook type cutter would be good. Small ceramic rods are used to sharpen edges like this. Maybe check out some seatbelt cutters/emergency tools or some production fishing knives have line cutters built in. I would think a small notch in a kydex sheath exposing only a very small part of the edge would work.


-Xander

 

[jawilder]

I'm thinking you could incorperate a razor blade into the kydex sheath similar to an envelope opener

Maybe you could sandwhich it between two pieces of kydex. Just make the slot small enough so that nothing else accidentally gets cut.

 

[zerogee]

Why not make the "cutter" just an angled notch cut in a kydex sheath that uses the actual knife blade edge?

 

[Jarrett Fleming]

I also think incorporating it into the sheath is a good idea. If you don't like the sound of that then maybe a guthook style cutter on the back of the tang behind the scales.

 

[duffy99]

Why not make the "cutter" just an angled notch cut in a kydex sheath that uses the actual knife blade edge?

I think that would be impracticable , when rigging equipment for parachute jumps to have the ability to just cut something quickly at hip level is what I'm thinking. The knife will have to be secured very good to be allowed to jump with or the Jumpmaster or PI will no go it . Having an exposed edge near your harness hook ups isn't a good idea thanks for all the suggestions so far.

 

[Patrickknives]

I put a line cutter into a dive knife for my son, they find fishing line all the time. I used a 1/4 drill to make a hole and cut the slot to the hole, beveled with a file and shrpend with ceramic rod. I made it the same diameter as the ceramic rod to make sharpening easier. It worked well but I wish I had made the bevel at a steeper slope to cut even better, its about 20 degrees, I would go 10 degrees next time.

 

[duffy99]

I put a line cutter into a dive knife for my son, they find fishing line all the time. I used a 1/4 drill to make a hole and cut the slot to the hole, beveled with a file and shrpend with ceramic rod. I made it the same diameter as the ceramic rod to make sharpening easier. It worked well but I wish I had made the bevel at a steeper slope to cut even better, its about 20 degrees, I would go 10 degrees next time.

That looks good , I think I'm going to try that in the tang .

 

[Rick Marchand]

This is a horrible design I made in 2006... it never made it to the bench. Maybe it will spark some ideas...

 

[duffy99]

I plan to have it like that but in the handle and higher up , I'll cut the g-10 to blend it in to the rest of the handle . If I get it to work I'll post a pic .

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Cut a notch in the tang and the scales. Rout one of the scales to hold a utility knife blade in position over the slot. Rout the other scale to hold a couple of extra blades between it and the tang. This will require removeable scales.

 

[duffy99]

Cut a notch in the tang and the scales. Rout one of the scales to hold a utility knife blade in position over the slot. Rout the other scale to hold a couple of extra blades between it and the tang. This will require removeable scales.

I thought about that , I'm going to cut into the tang and hopefully be able to put a good edge on it .

 

[Bill DeShivs]

...and how will they be able to sharpen it once it gets dull? Utility knife blades are much sharper than you would be able to get the tang, stay pretty sharp, and are easily and universally available.

 

[duffy99]

Then I have to change my whole handle design concept and mounting bolts. It can be sharpened with ceramic rods which I'll make the hole appropriate size to fit. 25 degree rough working edge should last a long time cutting paracord and 1/4 inch nylon thread which is used in parachute equipment rigging . If it doesn't work I'm always open to other options , but I can do this with stuff I already have. I could even I dare say make serrations which would make the cutting life even longer, just looking at every option. I'm not saying your idea isn't good it's just not what I'm going to try. It will be hard to find a utility knife blade in the field . Then you have to have a tool to unscrew the handles to replace it. I'm going with the KISS idea.

 

[Rick Marchand]

Do you not want to have to unsheath the knife to cut cord? If that is the case the KISS method would lean toward this option. That way your knife is a knife and sharpening the cord cutter is as easy as sharpening your knife. This can easily be done in leather as well...

 

[S.Grosvenor]

I'm designing a " jump knife" / EDC knife for paratroopers and line infantryman alike . One of the key features I want is to have a cutter in the tang so you can cut paracord or 1/4" nylon rigging cord without having to unsheath the knife. .

Just curious, what the application would be, will you have a quick detach sheath then?

82nd Airborne Div 1986-1989

 

[Rick Marchand]

Your welcome.... Ha!


Basic concept...... 25% of sales please.

 

[RoyalM]

The way I see it the sheath will have to be firmly fixed for jumping so an exposed edge in the sheath as has been suggested will not work. Notching the tang and sharpening the notch will work but if you're drawing the knife out anyway why not use part of the blade?

A better option might be to piggy back a small cutter onto the sheath? I'm thinking a smallish piece of steel maybe 3/4'' by 4'' that sits with half exposed so you can quickly grab it and cut cord. Again using the notch/gut hook style of cutting edge. Lastly if you wanted you could round one edge of this 'cutter' so that it could be used to fix rolled edges on the knife and maybe glue some abrasive paper on one flat side to allow for some field sharpening. Of course you have now made a tool that goes with the knife rather than adapting a knife.

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

Do you not want to have to unsheath the knife to cut cord? If that is the case the KISS method would lean toward this option. That way your knife is a knife and sharpening the cord cutter is as easy as sharpening your knife. This can easily be done in leather as well...

+1. genius.

The way I see it the sheath will have to be firmly fixed for jumping so an exposed edge in the sheath as has been suggested will not work. Notching the tang and sharpening the notch will work but if you're drawing the knife out anyway why not use part of the blade?

A better option might be to piggy back a small cutter onto the sheath? I'm thinking a smallish piece of steel maybe 3/4'' by 4'' that sits with half exposed so you can quickly grab it and cut cord. Again using the notch/gut hook style of cutting edge. Lastly if you wanted you could round one edge of this 'cutter' so that it could be used to fix rolled edges on the knife and maybe glue some abrasive paper on one flat side to allow for some field sharpening. Of course you have now made a tool that goes with the knife rather than adapting a knife.

+1

 

[Nebulae]

have you thought of doing partial serrations. The "Veff" serrations that CRKT does look like mini line cutters