Upgrading: 9" Disc - flat or 1-deg bevel... any reason for both?

Erin Burke

Erin Burke

KnifeMaker...ish
Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
1,330
Hey guys,
I just bought another 2hp motor to set up a dedicated 9" disc grinder station. I will be installing a switch on the output side of my KBAC-27D vfd -- which currently controls only my KMG -- so that I can run both motors from one controller. Currently I run an 8" disc off the back of my wood-lathe headstock. I'm excited for the larger disc and the reversibility that I'll get from the new setup.

As mentioned, I currently run an 8" FLAT disc. I have heard several folks recommend going with a 1-degree bevelled disc which helps avoid grinding on the uphill and downhill sides of the disc at the same time. Are there any down-sides to the 1-degree bevelled disc? Are there any compelling reasons to have both 1-degree AND flat 9" discs? I realize that 1-degree is a fairly insignificant angle... but does it get things dead-nuts flat enough? There are a lot of folks that I respect who use the bevelled discs -- including Mr. Wheeler (a stickler for flat-flats) -- so I'm inclined to think that I should be able to get away with a 1-deg disc only... but I'm willing to listen to other opinions.

Thoughts?.?.

Erin
 
I don't have a bevelled disc, but wish I did! Only thing I can think of that would be different would be getting the table up against the disc all the way across its face and getting true square ends on bolsters and such. I'm interested in hearing what the guys with bevelled discs have to say as well, if my concerns are valid or not.


-Xander
 
I was really hot on the beveled disc, but I don't know that I still feel that way. I never had any problems with having the taper, but I swapped mine around about a year ago (just out of curiosity)... and don't have any issues with the dead flat disc.

You didn't ask, but I'd recommend option C- a steel disc. I've started getting some abuse marks on my aluminum disc that wouldn't be there if it were steel. It took a lot of years to happen, but it's there nonetheless.

No worries putting a table up against a tapered disc. A 1 degree taper is very slight, it doesn't look like a cone, as most folks envision. :)
 
Good question. I have a 9" disc from RW Wilson, I believe it's a 1/2 degree?

I just bought a second 9" disc and 1.5 hp motor to run off my VFD. My new disc is flat. I decided on flat after talking with a couple makers who use their discs a lot.

I'd like to know what you hear as I'm contemplating buying another Nielsen disc system and am contemplating a mix of flat n beveled discs.
 
Yep RW Wilsons are .5 deg. and that is what I have used for a few years then about a month ago put a 1 deg. on and it seemed like a lot of taper to me,more then needed in my opinion. Really it up to the user but I sure liked the .5 it is just enough to keep the blade off the upward side of the disk. Also I think the speed your running the disk at would make differnce if you notice the blade being grabed on the other side of the flat disk if that makes sence. I think you would notice it a lot more running at full speed 1750 rather then say 450-700 rpm
 
NickWheeler said:
I was really hot on the beveled disc, but I don't know that I still feel that way. I never had any problems with having the taper, but I swapped mine around about a year ago (just out of curiosity)... and don't have any issues with the dead flat disc.

You didn't ask, but I'd recommend option C- a steel disc. I've started getting some abuse marks on my aluminum disc that wouldn't be there if it were steel. It took a lot of years to happen, but it's there nonetheless.
Click to expand...

Good info Nick... I remember you mentioning the tapered discs in the past. Your one of my main reasons for going that route. As far as steel goes, I'm looking at the Nielsen magnetic setup that Ed posted about a few years back (and Brian mentioned above). Interchangeable steel plates seem like a good idea. Expensive though. I'm trying to figure out how many plates (and what type: flat/tapered) I should get.

Erin
 
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I bought the Nielsen system and due to lack of shop time in a moment of weekness traded them. Where I think the Nielsen discs will shine is using the 9" Blaze discs. I just peeled a 60 grit Blaze off that while worn would have been useful for plenty of tasks still.
I'd almost say the Blaze discs are hard to get their full life potential without a Nielsen disc. I was stuck using the flat platen on my grinder when I needed 120, 220 and 400 grits before HT.
 
I'"m running 3 of them from R.W. Wilson, all with the taper and for the most part I'd say no difference
tapered or not. I do like it that they're steel though.
Ken.
 
I purchased a magnetic disc set up from R. Neilson a couple years ago and used it as the basis for a new 9 inch VS reversible horizontal disc machine I was building. I purchased the flat disc to be used with a square fence which is great for squaring handle materials. This is not possible with the 1 degree taper disc. I also bought the tapered disc; this is used when truing bevels on long blades [over half the diameter of the disc] or any stock that is not being squared.
Since the disc can be removed just by lifting the edge; its very easy to switch to different grit papers, not just the rounds but 8 1/2 x 11 sheets.

When I bought the set up from Rod, it was a considerable investment; I am glad I made the purchase.

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