Upgrading Advice

The photo of the stones appear to be outdated. If you scroll down on the page of the Ursa stones, you should see the listing of the stones.

80/120
240/400
800/1200
I'm a relatively smart guy but... Sorry if I'm being dense.
I'll trust you since you're probably looking at the stones (not to mention actually using them ;) So, an F1200 roughly equates to a 3 micron diamond stropping paste , correct?
 
I'm a relatively smart guy but... Sorry if I'm being dense.
I'll trust you since you're probably looking at the stones (not to mention actually using them ;) So, an F1200 roughly equates to a 3 micron diamond stropping paste , correct?
This is the link to the Ursa stones. Scroll down the page and you will see the grits.


This is the chart of most grits/microns

 
This is the link to the Ursa stones. Scroll down the page and you will see the grits.


This is the chart of most grits/microns

That chart is much easier to digest.
The link to the gritomatic page is the one I have been referring to. I thought (erroneously) that Polaris set was a different set than the Ursa.
 
R2
Ursa set
4 cowhide strops and 10, 3, 1, & 0.5 paste
Scissor module
Fine tuner and stoppers
Thickness compensator
You're all set now. Keep us posted. Just remember with the paste on the strops-less is more.
 
R2
Ursa set
4 cowhide strops and 10, 3, 1, & 0.5 paste
Scissor module
Fine tuner and stoppers
Thickness compensator
You're gonna love it R ralph029 h. And like Revival29 Revival29 mentioned, an angle cube is definitely worth having.

Regarding the F2000 Venev stones, yes it is outdated information. Gritomatic does not sell the F2000 any more (at least not at this stage). Venev did a lot of experimenting with bonding agents and initially had issues with the F2000 leaving a scratch pattern equal or similar to lower grit stones. They figured it's the bonding agent and replaced that (and some of the other stones) with their "OCB" bond. This made a big improvement to the extent that the F1200 stone is already a great finisher. The F2000 became, in effect a little obsolete.

Apparently the finer F2000 (0/1) diamond particles can clump together in some spots and give stray scratch patterns when sharpening.(In effect they clump together and act like bigger diamond particles). It seems most diamond stone manufacturers struggle with this.

You'll see that even Naniwa diamond hones end at around 6000 (JIS rating) grit as their finest stone. This is just about the same as the F1200 Venev stone. JIS6000 (just under 3 micron) is very similar to F1200.

Apparently Naniwa has the same problem in Diamond resin stones when you go too fine on the grits. CGSW seemingly also have similar experience and you'll see that they also stop at 5 micron diamond for their finest stone.
 
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FWIW, the fine tuner is also a thickness compensator.
Yes, correct. If you have the Fine tuner and an angle cube, you don't really need the stone thickness compensator. Just check and adjust the angle every time you swap to another stone (especially thinner or thicker stones).

For consistency, I recommend always measuring your angle on the same side and in the same spot with all knives. Don't measure 1 stone 1 side and another stone on the other side of the knife or in a different spot on the knife.

Here is what I do to make sure I always have the same measuring spot: I clamp my knife in the clamp with the clamp screws facing up, and the knife handle facing to the right. I ALWAYS start every knife this way. I then measure and set my angle with the stone on the middle of the blade, and blade touching the middle of the stone. When I sharpen and I am about the swap stones, I go back to my start point - knife handle facing right and stone on the middle of the blade + middle of the stone when I measure and set the angle for the next stone / strop.

It doesn't matter which way or positioning you prefer to do it, just always do it the same way.
 
You're gonna love it R ralph029 h. And like Revival29 Revival29 mentioned, an angle cube is definitely worth having.

Regarding the F2000 Venev stones, yes it is outdated information. Gritomatic does not sell the F2000 any more (at least not at this stage). Venev did a lot of experimenting with bonding agents and initially had issues with the F2000 leaving a scratch pattern equal or similar to lower grit stones. They figured it's the bonding agent and replaced that (and some of the other stones) with their "OCB" bond. This made a big improvement to the extent that the F1200 stone is already a great finisher. The F2000 became, in effect a little obsolete.

Apparently the finer F2000 (0/1) diamond particles can clump together in some spots and give stray scratch patterns in the stones.(In effect they clump together and act like bigger diamond particles). It seems most diamond stone manufacturers struggle with this. You'll see that Naniwa diamond hones also end at around 6000 (JIS rating) grit as their finest stone. This is just about the same as the F1200 Venev stone. JIS6000 (just under 3 micron) is very similar to F1200. Apparently Naniwa has the same problem in Diamond resin stones when you go too fine on the grits. CGSW seemingly also have similar experience and you'll see that they also stop at 5 micron diamond for their finest stone.
This is very interesting. A very good example of "Just because it can be engineered..."
 
Yes, correct. If you have the Fine tuner and an angle cube, you don't really need the stone thickness compensator. Just check and adjust the angle every time you swap to another stone (especially thinner or thicker stones).

For consistency, I recommend always measuring your angle on the same side and in the same spot with all knives. Don't measure 1 stone 1 side and another stone on the other side of the knife or in a different spot on the knife.

Here is what I do to make sure I always have the same measuring spot: I clamp my knife in the clamp with the clamp screws facing up, and the knife handle facing to the right. I ALWAYS start every knife this way. I then measure and set my angle with the stone on the middle of the blade, and blade touching the middle of the stone. When I sharpen and I am about the swap stones, I go back to my start point - knife handle facing right and stone on the middle of the blade + middle of the stone when I measure and set the angle for the next stone / strop.

It doesn't matter which way or positioning you prefer to do it, just always do it the same way.
Thanks. I have always done something similar with the starting point but never really thought to measure the angle every time I changed stones. I find it very difficult to hold any level of precision with the KME so I just have always looked at the edge with a magnifier to tell how things were going. In fact it is because the Hapstone and the KME are designed the same (fixed blade angle) I came very very close to going with the Kadet (movable blade angle).
 
Thanks. I have always done something similar with the starting point but never really thought to measure the angle every time I changed stones. I find it very difficult to hold any level of precision with the KME so I just have always looked at the edge with a magnifier to tell how things were going. In fact it is because the Hapstone and the KME are designed the same (fixed blade angle) I came very very close to going with the Kadet (movable blade angle).
You'll find the accuracy and level of precision excellent with the Hapstone R2 compared to the KME.

It's always a major headache for me to use an angle cube with my own KME, it's wobbly stand and trying to get a good spot to zero and then measure with the cube. With the Hapstone R2 it's a much more accurate and easy process. It's designed to be used with an angle cube.

Regarding the TSPROF Kadet vs the Hapstone R2 and having a fixed blade angle - it's much better having a fixed angle. TSPROF's top of the line K03 is also designed with a fixed blade angle.

The TSPROF Kadet and Blitz idea of changing the angle with the blade clamping mechanism is a good idea....on paper only. Unfortunately, what happens is the arc of movement around a stationary point where your stone is meant to make contact with your blade while you adjust the angle never works perfectly. It almost always changes slightly while tweaking the angles.

The Kadet and Blitz is designed assuming an exact distance from its arc of movement and unfortunately sharpening blades of all shapes and sizes messes with that exact point. When adjusting the angle with a wider or narrower blade than that exact point on the arc of movement, your zero set angle on the stone holder changes so you have to keep going back between the knife angle and the stone angle 3 or 4 times while you change your angle, every time zeroing your cube all over again.

Your zero angle on a Hapstone R2 and TSPROF Kadet never changes once you've got it set-up, and it doesn't change while you change your sharpening angle. You zero once and then measure your angle, that's it. Not so much with the Kadet and Blitz...

You've chosen well, your R2 is an excellent choice.
 
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You'll find the accuracy and level of precision excellent with the Hapstone R2 compared to the KME.

It's always a major headache for me to use an angle cube with my own KME, it's wobbly stand and trying to get a good spot to zero and then measure with the cube. With the Hapstone R2 it's a much more accurate and easy process. It's designed to be used with an angle cube.

Regarding the TSPROF Kadet vs the Hapstone R2 and having a fixed blade angle - it's much better having a fixed angle. TSPROF's top of the line K03 is also designed with a fixed angle.

The TSPROF Kadet and Blitz idea of changing the angle with the blade clamping mechanism is a good idea....on paper only. Unfortunately, what happens is the arc of movement around a stationary point where your stone is meant to make contact with your blade while you adjust the angle never works perfectly. It almost always changes slightly while tweaking the angles.

The Kadet and Blitz is designed assuming an exact distance from its arc of movement and unfortunately sharpening blades of all shapes and sizes messes with that exact point. When adjusting the angle with a wider or narrower blade than that exact point on the arc of movement, your zero set angle on the stone holder changes so you have to keep going back between the knife angle and the stone angle 3 or 4 times while you change your angle, every time zeroing your cube all over again.

Your zero angle on a Hapstone R2 and TSPROF Kadet never changes once you've got it set-up, and it doesn't change while you change your sharpening angle. You zero once and then measure your angle, that's it. Not so much with the Kadet and Blitz...

You've chosen well, your R2 is the better choice of the 2 you considered.
I spent quite a bit of time deciding on which guided system I wanted to go with. When I finally got down to the two choices I read as much as I could from everyone. It did dawn on me though that I couldn't think of any metal working machine that moved the part around the tool. In all my limited experience, all I've ever worked with, you moved the tool around the fixed part. Yes yes, I know CMC's don't work that way but we are talking manual processes. Maybe my next upgrade will be a computerized knife sharpening system, hehehe!
 
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