Using 410 stainless

B

bilinghm

Joined
Nov 10, 2005
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I am planning a run of folders with stainless frames. I have been experimenting with various grades of stainless for the optimum combination of machinability, availability in sheet stock, and affordability. So far, the best alloy seems to be 410. This stuff band saws like low carbon steel, doesn't seem to work harden, drills and taps great, and is available in sizes and gauges that are appropriate for knives. Is anybody else using 410?

Bill Cunningham
Atlanta
 
Darrel Ralph said:
I use it all the time Bill.
It is great stuff!
Click to expand...

I just used it on my folder. Liners and bolsters were made of 410. Solders well and I got in a discussion with TBose about soldering versus milling. Since it soldered so well...I did it with no problem on my first go...it doesn't seem to make sense to ever mill thicker stuff down. Time wise it is probably a wash but you don't waste away steel with soldering thicker bolster material to thinner liners.

More than you asked for but seemed appropriate to give you your monies worth for this thread :D
 
It's a martensitic stainless - .15 C max, 12.5 Cr , no nickel...416 is the free machining grade ,containing higher sulphur
 
I use 410 for spacers on multiblades mainly because it is available in 0.032" and 0.040" thick sheets and 410 and 416 are very very similar in "color".
I use 416 for integral milled bolsters/liners....it is how I learned and got used to doing, and 416 is readily availabe in pin material as well and you do want pivot pins to be same as bolster steel so they "disappear" when peened.

Kerry's recent pictorial/of his first folder was real interesting. Iwas surprised that Tony Bose apparently typically solders 410 liners to 410 bolsters. Just assumed that he milled 416....

Question for Kerry: does Tony solder bolsters 0f 410 to liners of 410 on double bolster folders as well?
I haven't soldered bolsters to liners on folders but will give it a try thanks to Kerry sharing the info.
 
The 410 makes great springs and liners.
The 416 is so nice on bolsters and to grind.
It takes a very nice finish.
 
John R. Fraps said:
Question for Kerry: does Tony solder bolsters 0f 410 to liners of 410 on double bolster folders as well?
I haven't soldered bolsters to liners on folders but will give it a try thanks to Kerry sharing the info.
Click to expand...

He has a beast of a mill but he prefers to solder bolsters to liners, and I assume that includes double bolsters asswell. I'm not totally sure why except the waste issue was one that I remember he mentioned and that is just the way he has chosen to do it.

One thing for sure is, if you do the solder method, your liners and bolster will be exactly the same thickness and the only thing you will have to worry about is the joints to handle material.

I will ask him what the steps are on double bolsters and try to get something posted about it.
 
I talked with Tony and what I said about him soldering both bolsters was right. Once he has the pivot end bolster solder into place, he uses a piece of flat steel as a marking gauge to position the other bolster on the same liner. You can see it in this picture on this page http://boseknives.com/backpocket-construction/pages/12backpocketconst_jpg.htm

That "gauge" is square on one end with the sides and angled on the other. This is also used later as a guide to grind the handle material or as a fence setup tool so the handle material perfectly matches the bolster positions.
 
Not an expert but the few linerlocks i made i heat treated and then tempered and it had a very good spring quality. don't remember the temps though. it has been awhile.
 
I know this is reopening a thread that has been "resting" for a few months, but the search got me here and I have a curiousity....
I have been machining my bolster/liners from a bar of 416 mostly because its the way I learned and 2 or more of the top slipjoint makers do it that way as of when they wrote their book.
Now recently, as Kerry has posted, I find that T. Bose uses 410 for his liners and silversolders them to the bolsters, and has alot of good reasons to do it that way.

Googled machinability of 416 vs 410. Best info I got is that 416 has approx 85% of the free machinability of high carbon steel.....no comparison of 416 machinability vs 410 machinability vs high carbon steel machinability.

I am milling some integral 410 liner/bolsters as I write....but is that the right thing to do? I don't need to care about weld-ability of either and know soldering of either or soldering of 416 to 410 is just fine.
I have, or have on order, alot of 410. and have quite a bit (alot) of 416.

How about milling 410? or would soldering that be better, or should milling 416 be the thing to do?
I am asking a number of questions.....What I would appreciate is opinions.....
Thank-You!
PS before "S"....extremely happy to have met Kerry and his definitely Better Half, Danna, at Blade....and also very happy to have met and talked with Tony at Blade...
 
I like the stuff. In my abuse tests of the stuff Paul Bos heat treated for me the locks made of it held up very well wearing great, showing great resistance to indenting and being very strong even in the .040 thickness which was quite easy to work.

I still use it and like it a lot. Its been said that you can oil quench it or air harden but I understand from Paul if you want max hardness you need to use oil. The stuff he did for me always came out 45 RC. Some other stuff I sent to other guys they could only get to 42 so I don't know what Paul does different but he must be doing something right.

You can use it for liners in the thicker stock. I have been told you can drop the liners in acetone and dry ice and let it sit there till the stuff gets warm. Supposedly this will toughen it up without having to heat treat it for just liner stock. For locks I'd suggest sending it to the oven though and the oil quench.

STR
 
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