Using a bow in the wild.

K:Let me make it clear. I would not think of making a bow in the wild unless I had at least made a couple at home. The whole kit and caboodle. Arrows points,strings and tools.

Me: OK, now we are getting to a noteworthy point.
While it is possible to make a serviceable bow and arrow kit, in the wild, it's not to be taken lightly. This is not going to be territory an "average guy" should ever consider once he already faced with tryingto save his own hide? no? He would be wasting precious time trying to fabricate something that quite possibly isn't going to work without some prior experience. he needs to become interested and get educated well beforehand, and it will take a measured amount of dedication.

K:You need this to understand how to get the most out of that tree trunk bow you are going to make. This bow will be a dog. It will be heavy,fairly hard to be precise with and shake in your hand like your old aunt Minny when you shoot it.

ME: AT home it's no problem. I could make wooden springs for an amish buggy using wooden laminations, so, I'd use that knowledge to fashion a pre-curved laminated monster bow. :) I am a king of overkill. In the wild, my bow isn't going to be much of anything. In fact, at this juncture, I'm thinking that snares, a gig, and some "man eater" traps are going to be time and effort better spent, that's just for me, personally, and I'm not trying to make this about me, but something for everyone to look at and think about.

ME: oh also, "Man Eaters" is what we called Boobytraps that were designed to kill or seriously maim bad guys. sharpened whips and such. Very dangerous and only for absolute survival/warfare.

K:Arrows are of primary importance. Again I would have made dozens at home before trying to make some in the bush. Selecting straightening pointing,nocking and fletching them will take you a coon's age unless you know what you are doing.
ME: SO, again, without fairly extensive prior knowledge, Joe Average shouldn't wait until stranded out doors to start making arrows.

K:I would not think of hunting with a primitive bow unless I thought I could get to within 30 feet of a deer.
ME: And, that is a lot easier said than done. Getting within 30 feet of a deer. So, enter some good old fashioned hunting fieldcraft.
Oh, also, I had already written off deer for a novice, thinking that squirrel or rabbit would be a better choice for trying their new craft.

K: I would have my woodland skills in general at a high level. It doesn't give you much downtime to make arrows if you are shivering trying to stay warm at night.
ME: Yes, to my previous point, Joe Average is gonnah ave his hands full keeping his fire going, building shelter, collecting water and trying to figure out how the heck he is gonna get rescued.

K:If you were in that poor shape with an unfamiliar bow you wouldn't have much of a chance.
ME: So, without a good deal of practical knowledge of bows making, arrow making, and general hunting/stalking, again, it's going to be select group of "practiced" individuals that are going to be able to do this with enough effect so as to put food on the table.

K: I do not know about taking paracord apart and using it. Definitely this is a try at home before you find out it breaks on your second shot with your last arrow on your only shot at a deer.
ME: I think it's do-able, and the cordage would hold up. The great thig about 550 cord is the inner cordage. If you only have a 5 foot peice with you, and you have to build a shelter, you can strip out the inner pieces, and use it to fasten your structure together.

OK, Kevin, thanks for all of the info. Anyone interested in looking into using a Bow and Arrow has a lot of good info to work with here in this thread.
Don't think my resposnes were intended to kill the spirit of bow making and it's possibilties as a respectable way to put some serious meat on the table while braving the elements. It can obviously be done.
However, for those who may be thinking it is viable, for them personally, it appears that you/we will have to put our nose to the grindstone, and learn the craft, of both making and using, as it is not goingto come overnight, or with relative ease. No pain, no gain.

thanks Kev ,
hope I got my thoughts in without offending or being seen as a naysayer or buzzkiller.
 
Wow, you leave for a couple of minutes and all hell breaks loose.................


Quote - Kevin: Skunkwerx let me say before I forget that a braided string is infinitely stronger than a single cord. You could make braided dental floss stronger than paracord.

Kevin, when you say braided, are you talking about reverse twist cordage or actual braiding?

Quote - Kevin: You can make a bow from a bamboo garden stake.

Quite true, in fact you can make a bow from old arrows, shrub shoots, anything like this. For example, you take a few long shrub shoots, and arrange them bottom to top to bottom etc., so that each end is roughly equal in strength. You add some shorter pieces, the same way, bottom to top, etc., in the centre of the bow. Then add some still shorter pieces, the same way. What you're doing in effect is 'tillering' your stick bow.(stronger [more pieces] in the centre, and less pieces at each end) I should have mentioned that these are all lashed securely together. I made one using Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and it worked surprisingly well. I should have checked the draw weight but I didn't. You should be able to make a bow capable of taking small game with this method, perhaps even deer, depending on the material and your stalking skills. Another quickee, low weight bow is 2 branches of Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) lashed together at the thick ends, with the tips at each end. Voila, a bow, already tillered by the tapering of the branches (with all the leaves and branchlets removed, of course), and probably most of you know how springy Cedar is.

Kevin says that you should make a few bows at home, first, so that you understand what you're doing - absolutely correct. Besides the way to prepare for any survival situation is to learn the skills beforehand, not when you need them.

Quote - Kevin: There is an old saying I just made up " You can't learn to make bows without breaking a couple." Right on the money, Kevin.

As far as a quickee drawknife, you can just drive your knife tip into a piece of wood, and you're ready to go.

Doc
 
At home I wouldn't have any hesitation about building a bow.
I'm a woodworker, I can dry lumber, resaw it on my bandsaw, do wood laminating, joint it, plane it...etc. Skunk, I'm sure you a capable woodworker, but you should make some bows at home, not to hone your woodworking skills, but to begin to learn the language of bowmaking. BTW, I am only a beginning bowmaker myself. I'm currently about 75% through bow #2, so take everything I say with a grain of salt.

My issue is definitely more of a Wilderness survival one, making a food procuring bow, in the wild, with maybe a decent fixed blade, an SAK, and perhaps a Leatherman or Gerber multi-tool. And, if, following the proper guidance, do a good job, will it be able to produce some food before the maker succumbs of starvation? Maybe yes, maybe no, but while you're working on the bow, you already have traps and snares out working for you. The bow is more of an opportunistic grit getter.

here is another wy to look at it... You are in the wilderness, you tend to Shelter, Fire, water. Your thought turns to food.
How long, in days or hours, do you think it might take to build a reasonable bow and arrow set, ...one good enough to take small game?

Stalking and hunting skill aside, just how long to build.

Here is your answer, grasshopper. Just Do It (and report back).

Everybody's talent is different. I'm an appliance service technician and quite often I have people ask me, "Can I fix that myself?" I ask them in turn, "Can I tap dance?" In other words, who knows if you have the skill or how much.

Doc
 
If you follow Docs and Tim Baker's advice it would take you less than an hour.
Let's get this straight - it's Tim Baker's advice. My advice and $1.60 would get you a bottle of Coca Cola (I first typed Coke, but I thought I'd better change it :( ) just about anywhere.

Let us say you bring the string with you. It would take up little room and could even be made beforehand. We'll get into that last.

Carrying a string, or a few is definitely an excellent idea.

I'll post a little quote on making primitive arrows. The points could also be brought with you. You could make two or three from one flea market used knife. QUOTE]


Some people make field points out of industrial steel banding material, others out of cheap circular saw blades. (Pretend this sentence is in red )


SkunkWerx: AT home it's no problem. I could make wooden springs for an amish buggy using wooden laminations, so, I'd use that knowledge to fashion a pre-curved laminated monster bow. I am a king of overkill. In the wild, my bow isn't going to be much of anything. In fact, at this juncture, I'm thinking that snares, a gig, and some "man eater" traps are going to be time and effort better spent, absolutely it would be time and effort better spent, but in a longer term survival situation, you should have as many options available as possible. Consider this, you're going around checking your snares, and right in front of you is a little doe, not more than 20 feet away. You could throw your shoe at her, but I think a bow would be more effective. This is not to say that you can't also snare deer, of course. Think how long that doe can feed you compared to a bunch of field mice. that's just for me, personally, and I'm not trying to make this about me, but something for everyone to look at and think about.

K:I would not think of hunting with a primitive bow unless I thought I could get to within 30 feet of a deer.
ME: And, that is a lot easier said than done. Getting within 30 feet of a deer. So, enter some good old fashioned hunting fieldcraft.
Oh, also, I had already written off deer for a novice, thinking that squirrel or rabbit would be a better choice for trying their new craft.

K: I would have my woodland skills in general at a high level. It doesn't give you much downtime to make arrows if you are shivering trying to stay warm at night.
ME: Yes, to my previous point, Joe Average is gonnah ave his hands full keeping his fire going, building shelter, collecting water and trying to figure out how the heck he is gonna get rescued.


Why do you guys keep talking about Joe Average and novices? We're talking about you and I. (also pretend this one is in red)

Quote - Skunk: So, without a good deal of practical knowledge of bows making, arrow making, and general hunting/stalking, again, it's going to be select group of "practiced" individuals that are going to be able to do this with enough effect so as to put food on the table.

The reason, I hope, that we participate in this forum is to help us be those "practiced" individuals. (pretend, etc.,)

pricecw, you are correct, it is Volume 3. For anybody who is interested in bow making (and you don't have to be Mr. Woodworker, trust me, there are all kinds of aids for us 'blackthumbs'.) check out the 3 volume set of Traditional Bowyer's Bible. It also covers other areas such as cordage making (an excellent coverage, by the way), flint knapping, etc. Another good resource is John McPherson's Making Meat 1. If anybody needs any links, etc., let me know. (and this - can't correct colour in 'Edit')

Doc
 
Doc if you just want to look at it from multi or single strand then even unbraided multi is stronger.

Flemish twist which is I think your reverse twist cordage is again stronger.

I could not say if a three strand interlacing braid is stronger than flemish.

I would expect that certain braids would be stronger than flemish.

Endless loop is proabably the strongest and that is just strands inone endless loop. Its strength comes from the fact there are no ends braided into loops.

I just made a hybrid endless loop and flemish twist of jute.

My next will be an endless loop in silk .

I also have to get going on learning to braid horse hair. That is a toughy.
I may make one in silk using the horsehair braid. I do not have much horse hair to waste.

=========================================================

That is neat making a bow from dogwood shoots. I will also have to try the cedar tree ideas. I wonder if they could be treated like billets? More or less splice instead of overlap them at the handle. :confused:

Trouble is all the wild cedars around me are robbed by people to plant in their yards. That means there are none that I can rob. Looks like I may have to do a little guerilla gardening. :eek:
 
Small bows could be used for large game if
you used poison arrows. Yes, it is illegal. Yes,
it is not fair chase. Yes, poison is dangerous.

Other cultures have used poison on arrows.

And, yes, I can not remember what herb or
chemical to use; but I do not despair, because
I am going to take some memory enhancing herbs.
 
Well fer cripes sake, I been tryin to get pics onto photobucket for the last 1 1/2 hours!! Don't know what the heck is goin on.:confused: Found this tho
MDS65
crap, no hot link
Can't type near as fast as you fllers either:D Anyway I have made bows with knot holes all the way through the limb and bows with cracks in them too.
Osage all. I do not, I repeat, do not recomend making your first bows with Osage!! Just trust me on this one.;) Kevin has good advise in using "white wood" for learnin.:thumbup: I too remeber post on another thread(prolly by Kevin) that it doesn't hurt to make 36" kids bows for learnin. This way you can make all the beginner mistakes you want without feelin like you wasted a good stave. All the principals apply and the neighbor kids will think that you are the coolest:thumbup: :D For that matter, a small bow can be made of a sliver of Bamboo with kabob skewer arrows.(teaches tillering) then set up a 9 hole mini archery golf course in the yard and let the fun begin. I'm not kidding:thumbup: Making bows is like anything you're interested in, before you're done you will be planning the next several.
 
One thing I did not mention properly. By multistrand being stronger I mean that three strands with a five pound breaking strand are stronger than one strand with a fifteen pound breaking strand. There is a cumulative effect.

There is also a safety factor in that if one fifteen pound strand breaks then its broken,possibly with unwanted results.

If one strand of three five pound strands breaks it will most proabably be evident before the other strands break. Its a lot easier to repair a single strand than making a whole new string.

Joining an archery club is your best bet to find other fellow traditional archers. There is always one or two skulking around . Even if it is all compounders you will have a chance to meet other trads at shoots.

These guys are a fount of knowledge and support.
 
Why not buy a couple replacement strings for suitable recurve bows, and work around them? That's got to beat anything you can conjure up in the field, and would store almost anywhere. If it's a true survival situation, eliminating one step/possible failure has to be a good thing. This is not to say you shouldn't learn to do it "right"...
 
Why not buy a couple replacement strings for suitable recurve bows, and work around them? That's got to beat anything you can conjure up in the field, and would store almost anywhere. If it's a true survival situation, eliminating one step/possible failure has to be a good thing. This is not to say you shouldn't learn to do it "right"...

might me a bit of a bugger making the bow just right for the string.
With a Timber, or Boyers hitch the bow can be almost any length and still be fitted proper.
 
Strings are fairly easy to make. If the store bought strings are for modern recurves the loops are very small. For a survival bow you may need fairly large loops.

Also if you buy a string a certain length then you have to match the bow to the string. Thats not especially something you want to do or is easy to do. For the price of a couple of strings you can buy a roll of dacron and have enough for a dozen strings.

If you can get strings with fairly large loops then it does have some merit. I think it would be better to make your own.
 
might me a bit of a bugger making the bow just right for the string.
With a Timber, or Boyers hitch the bow can be almost any length and still be fitted proper.

I agree with mewolf. Make a bow string longer than anything you might need. With a Timber Hitch, this would work on any bow you would make. Also you would probably make the string a bit oversized (diameter). It will rob a bit of speed, but the added insurance would be worth it.

Better yet, include a roll of Dacron B-50 or artificial sinew in your survival kit as it could also be used for any other cordage needs - shelter building, sewing (repairing) clothes and packs etc., making poacher's nets, well, you get the idea.

Doc
 
wow... there is some great info. here.... :thumbup:

i am an avid traditional/primitive archer and hunter.. i make all of my own tackle, with the exception of my bows... i've tried it and have never been able to produce anything noteworthy...i actually have a few staves curing as we speak... one walnut and one juniper.... it is a lengthy process and requires a lot of patience... :o the traditional bowyers bible's are probably some of the best out there on the subject of bowmaking :thumbup:

if it ever came down to it, i would not hesitate to make a bow in the wild..... it would be difficult given your location and availability of useable wood.... i recently started doing a lttle bit of flintknapping... it is a lot of fun.. i am having a hard time finding a good place to knapp, here around my house... the obsidion i have been using, breaks really fine and are sometimes very hard to see... i can make a usable(pointy and sharp) arrowhead, but it is nowhere near fancy or pretty, like a lot of these flintknappers are making... i've also only been doing it around a year or so...

these past few seasons i have been hunting quail with my longbow..... it is a blast.... :thumbup: :thumbup:

mike
 
wow... thanks for the info, I hadn't thought of that at all... (sound of me shutting up and listening :) )
 
MtnMike you have my respect. I have a hard time getting a spark out of flint let alone a stone point. It sounds like you are an all around good worker with your hands.

Is it possible the reason you are not having success in the bow building is the designs you are trying to copy? My buddy made quite a few bows and they all broke. He was a dtermined man and kept at it. He found a design I think is called The Meer Heath(sp) I think it is called the "unbreakable bow" or the "overbuilt bow". It is a broad limbed bow which is one of its advantages.

Like I said I've made one bow in my life. I am in the process of making me second and third. What I don't know they could write a book about. I just think a man that is good with his hands is having a design issue and not a lack of ability.

Gibsonfan its ideas we need. I make up and discard ideas all day long. Its not the three you make up and don't use that are the point. Its the one idea you come up with that we do use. The ideas you don't use help us as well. It helps us see the kinds of things that do not work. Believe it or not that helps us to see what kind of of ideas do work.
 
The Meare Heath has been around, long before medieval times, and a proven design.

fini.JPG
 
Nice pic Mewolf1 . I can never remember the name. I think its advantage is in the wide long limbs. It places less stress at any given point. If you make a slight error while building it the bow will still work for a long time. It will eventually still break at that point. It gives you enough time to see the problem and figure out how to avoid it in the future. This is all theory on my part.
 
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