Using a fuller in the tang

That style fuller is reminiscent of cut down bayonets. Either to have shorter bayonet or to make a knife out of a bayonet.

Also some swords have fullers that go straight from the blade through the guard into the tang.
 
To clarify, I would say that drilling 5-6 holes 5/16" in diameter in a piece of steel .125" thick takes about 10 seconds per hole, not even counting running a countersing, guesstimatiously speaking. Meanwhile, grinding a fuller from the top pin hole to the lanyard hole (or to the end for a tapered tang) takes, say, about a minute with a 60 grit belt. I'm less interested in burning up $7 HSS drill bits than I used to be.



A tapered tang is actually quite easy and doesn't require any specialized equipment! As long as you have an open idler wheel and a decently flat platen on your grinder, you can grind a tapered tang!!

My trick is to use the bottom idler wheel on my grinder to grind a fuller, grinding all the way past the butt of the knife to the final thickness I desire (about .02-.03"), though Loveless used a 4 or 8 inch contact wheel. Then using a welding magnet I grind the tang down to a taper! Literally you could even use a 4x36" belt sander with a piece of glass glued to it for a perfect platen. Or even a disc grinder!

Never, ever assume that something is harder than you think it is, because then you'll never try it!

Machining the tang, aside.... The real fun is with the handle material.

I don't do pins. I like mechanical hardware for more strength. The taper add a bit more completely to the arrangement. Not impossible, but takes more effort with my counterbores
 
Machining the tang, aside.... The real fun is with the handle material.

I don't do pins. I like mechanical hardware for more strength. The taper add a bit more completely to the arrangement. Not impossible, but takes more effort with my counterbores

I despise pins and have only used them for experiments or upon request... I've settled on Loveless bolts. I've broken several Corby bolts, but never a Loveless bolt. I can also use Loveless bolts with only one screwdriver.
 
I despise pins and have only used them for experiments or upon request... I've settled on Loveless bolts. I've broken several Corby bolts, but never a Loveless bolt. I can also use Loveless bolts with only one screwdriver.

Same....well almost. I usually make mine, which is stupid cause it takes to long, but I like the look, and having more of Me into the project. I won't make them with little handled knives. Those I'll buy, usually smaller versions to fit the handle looks.

And I'll often fumble with the screwdriver, epoxy, scales and tang.....I glue up a real mess.
Lots of fuss, I try not to curse.
Much....ha
 
Same....well almost. I usually make mine, which is stupid cause it takes to long, but I like the look, and having more of Me into the project. I won't make them with little handled knives. Those I'll buy, usually smaller versions to fit the handle looks.

And I'll often fumble with the screwdriver, epoxy, scales and tang.....I glue up a real mess.
Lots of fuss, I try not to curse.
Much....ha

I'd love to make my own Loveless bolts eventually, the ones available for purchase aren't accurate to the ones Loveless used. Most are 5/16" with am 8-32 machine screw, his were 3/8" with a 10-32 machine screw iirc
 
I'd love to make my own Loveless bolts eventually, the ones available for purchase aren't accurate to the ones Loveless used. Most are 5/16" with am 8-32 machine screw, his were 3/8" with a 10-32 machine screw iirc

I didn't know his were 3/8" ?
That's really big. I thought mine were big at 5/16"
 
I don't know for sure but that's what I seem to recall. For me at this point 5/16" hardware is standard, anything less seems a bit too small for me
Too small in what way?........looks-wise?

Strength-wise it's a non issue. Especially on wood handles.
 
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