Using a jeweler's rolling mill for steel?

Thanks for the pictures Del. The business end looks very compact and sturdy.

Take care, Craig
 
I have rolled 3"+ wide material in my mill and stock down to .050" and had no problem with cooling to fast either. In fact during my normal rolling I get 3-4 passes per heat.

I can't imagine a .050 sheet of steel holding a forging heat for more than a few seconds,... Are you rolling at a black heat or a forging heat?
 
One thing about a rolling mill is there is very little contact with the material and it's moving. Heat wont get sucked out quick, like with a press. Once the material is under a 1/4" or so, it is absolutely the most efficient way to produce thin flat stock.

With that said, I don't have a rolling mill, my 100 lb Little Giant does just fine and is faster. I can make pocket knife blades from 2.5" W2 or a 10 lb damascus billet :)
 
Thanks a bunch for the pictures Del! I don't see any bushings at the rollers, are you running steel on steel?

Edit- Also what size are your rollers and what is the size of the shaft on them?

Thanks!
 
Rolling at forging heat, I'm rolling damascus.

O.K. .050 is thinner than I thought you could go, but it must be going through the rollers a lot faster too.

I use an old double hand crank for cold rolling non ferrous quite a bit, which is built like a tank, but I got it a long time ago. It was real expensive, even back in the old days. The newer ones may not be built as nearly well.
 
Thanks a bunch for the pictures Del! I don't see any bushings at the rollers, are you running steel on steel?

Edit- Also what size are your rollers and what is the size of the shaft on them?

Thanks!

Dan,
There are bronze bushings for both rollers, but its so dirty you can't see them.:eek: The shafts are 1" and the rollers are 2"

Del
 
Here's a whacky idea: :)

… A hand crank hot rolling mill.

Rig up a couple well insulated heating chambers going in and coming out, and just crank the steel through real slow...
 
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