Using Kuhkuris.

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mohd,
thank you for your concern. I have
long suspected that poison was used on these blades. I was very careful when I first got it.
You would really like the one I have. I don't call it mine,because some things I feel a person cannot own. It is a 13 luk and I believe it to be old with the meteorite iron and nickle because of the color of the pamor.The point is rather dull and rounded,but the edges are still very sharp.
I really messed up when I first got it,because I took it to work and wire brushed it clean. I learned better over the years not to do such ignorant things.

I think it was Rusty (?) that gave me a URL to Paul's Keris pages. I wrote to Paul and he sent me instructions on cleaning the Keris. I heated the blade gently and was able to remove the handle without to much trouble. It was wrapped with cloth. I soaked the Keris for four days in a mixture of lime and lemon juice with some apple cider vinegar which removed what little rust there was.
I was surprised that here wasn't more.!!!

I didn't use aresnic to bring out the pamor,but did it a different way. I then oiled the blade and wrapped some new white cloth around the tang and reinstalled the handle. I then "Smoked" it off and asked the Spirits for Thier blessings. I have had it for a little over 20 years. I believe these things should be respected in a good way.

I like the Kuhkuri's for the same reasons as you. Tool,Weapon,Jewelry.
I have been thinking the very same thing. It explains the fascination that many of us have for glittering steel,sharp edges,and beautiful woods,horns and other unique things for handles and guards.
"Knives are a mans best friend."
I wonder if some tribal person ever chipped a blade from a diamond?
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>>>>---¥vsa---->®
The civilized man sleeps behind locked doors in the city while the naked savage sleeps (with a knife) in a open hut in the jungle.
 
Tom, thanks for the tip on using linseed oil when rehafting a tool. Was polishing the villager, and then I broke the replacement handle trying to get it the last fraction of an inch into the axe's eye, as I told you. So today I looked at all the wood I'd have to hog off and I saw the villager lying there. Using it got the wood down to where I could use a rasp pretty quick at that. Anyway, will start fresh tomorrow, get it right, then use epoxy instead of linseed oil. You'd love it. 13" long saxon head on a 38" haft, just a bit shorter than the hungarian axe. Villager is looking prettier every day too!
 
Rusty, better be careful. Kami will be here in a month or two and he may show up in Hawthorne with recruiting papers for shop 2.

Uncle Bill
 
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You're welcome Rusty. The Linseed Oil cures a lot of woods ills.
I lived in Southern Cal for 6 years and my garden tools handles would split and plinter. I sanded them down with some 120 grit paper and rubbed them good with the oil a few times and I stll have a couple of them that are still doing well.
It works real nice there where you and Uncle Bill live.

My uncle old the story about thier old Garand stocks being really rough when they were issued in WW II.
They ad to sand them smoot and then oil thmem 'till you could see your face in them. When they got ready to ship out they were given rough paper and told t kill the finish. The stocks had enough linseed oil in them to resist the crap they were going to have to go through !!

Talking about using the villager to take the excess wood off... If you have a wood vise or a way to hold it solid the Kuhkuri's will make an excellent draw-knife. If you haven't ever used one of them you would be amazed. It is almost like using a plane only with more options as to how to take the wood off. You can get something hard like Hickory as smooth as glass with a little practice.

Uncle Bill if I was a bunch younger I would take Kami up on an apprentice-ship!!
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I would also appreciate you doing a post on the hardening technique that you used to harden the Kuhkuri's you reworked when you first started in as much detail as possible.
I know "cherry red" but I am interested in how you poured the water and how fast and how much of the edge did you first quench and then what you did from there. Like ..did you quench the spine as well and what colr was it when you did?

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®
The civilized man sleeps behind locked doors in the city while the naked savage sleeps (with a knife) in a open hut in the jungle.
 
Talking of Garands, the Rifleman a year or so back described how to draw excess oil out of surplus rifle stocks by making a paste of some powder, smearing it over the stock, and leaving it in direct sunlight to heat up, then carding off the dried paste and oil, to repeat the process.

A quick and dirty way to clean up overly oiled stocks was told to me by someone - use oven cleaner spray foam. Think I saw a few done that way, and they stood out because the wood left had a honeycomb feel like not only the oil but part of the wood got dissolved.
Call me animistic, but any rifle issued to any country's military deserves to be treated with honor and if for no other reason than the men who carried them. Besides, the old surplus rifles have their own knives ( bayonets ) as a part of them.
 
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