Using natural wood for scales

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Feb 10, 2013
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If you are using stabilized wood for a knife handle how do you finish it and do you warn the customer that it is natural and there are certain precautions to take because of it. IE don't leave it in the sink over night in water or don't throw it in the dishwasher.
 
Your question is confusing. Are you using stabilized wood or natural wood?
 
IE don't leave it in the sink over night in water or don't throw it in the dishwasher.

I don't care if the wood's stabilized and you're using stainless, either one of those is a bad idea. Dishwashers kill knives.
 
I remember a number of years ago when stabilized wood first hit the knife maker market, one "test" was to leave a block of stabilized wood in water until it was saturated. They would then put it on the counter overnight. The next morning, the wood was totally dry and there was a small puddle of water on the counter. Kind of good news, bad news. Yes, the stuff would not retain the water because the stabilizing plastic had replaced water in the cells, but it would still temporarily absorb water though capillary action because there was still air space in the structure. Your mileage may vary as they say, but the impression that I get is that process is primarily designed to DIMENSIONALLY stabilized and strengthen wood, not to make it totally impervious to absorption of liquids, etc.
 
I don't care if the wood's stabilized and you're using stainless, either one of those is a bad idea. Dishwashers kill knives.
And in the case of old school kitchen knives with handle scales held on by cutlers rivets, knives can sometimes kill dishwashers. ;)
 
And to answer the other question, typically a good place to start as far as finish goes is to finish it out to 800 or 1200 then buff it with a cloth. I also sometimes put a coat or two of teak oil on mine.
 
I remember a number of years ago when stabilized wood first hit the knife maker market, one "test" was to leave a block of stabilized wood in water until it was saturated. They would then put it on the counter overnight. The next morning, the wood was totally dry and there was a small puddle of water on the counter. Kind of good news, bad news. Yes, the stuff would not retain the water because the stabilizing plastic had replaced water in the cells, but it would still temporarily absorb water though capillary action because there was still air space in the structure. Your mileage may vary as they say, but the impression that I get is that process is primarily designed to DIMENSIONALLY stabilized and strengthen wood, not to make it totally impervious to absorption of liquids, etc.

Thanks. This is news to me. For some reason I had assumed the process made it more 'synthetic like' as far as water resistance goes.
 
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