Using PBC special liquid anti scale on High Carbon.

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Jun 25, 2001
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I bought this stuff with the intentions to use it on SS at 1950 degs... 154CM :)
but I said to myself,, SELF ! why not use it on the steels needing only 1500 deg temps.
I have the reg PBC but dipping the blades sounded a lot easier to me, with a lot less mess and I'll try anything once, nice timing to, 14 blades to play with all at once :D do or die :eek: :D

OK,,,, I've used it finally :)
and with,
I think good results. you'll see hung up, some with the PBC applied by dipping the blades, dipped twice, let dry between coats. until dry and to a Grey color. BTW the steel is 1085.
and you'll see some already quenched and snap tempered at 400 deg with the toaster oven you see in the picture, the first ones will be snap tempered and the last ones will not be, only because of the timing I'm H/T ing 14 blades,
I need to wait for the Evenheat oven to be available and cooled down to 550 deg's and where I am heating each one, one at a time it will be a while before the first ones see their tempering..
you can see some of the PBC wiped right off with the rag I used to wipe the quench oil off with. I'll see how the rest comes off after the tempering is complete. but over all I'm very happy with it.. before the dip I just went over the blade with a scotch bright belt. blade finish is not my primary goal with these blades, they will be worked Hard.. I had to use the flash on the Camera so the pictures are crappy..
ESK-3.JPG

this is my Even heat recovering to 1500 deg's after I placed another blade in loosing about 50 degs,, taking about 5 min's once recovered
I then time 5 min's. to quench time..

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quench time,,, here you'll see that I use steel tubing welded to a base for my quenching.. I have 5 of these all at different sizes for use depending on the blade I'm quenching.. I'm using Brownniells Tough quench preheated to
~ to 130 deg ( for the first quench it will get a lot hotter after the first quench.
once I quench the blade and it get down to about a light smoking I hang it in another tube to let it dip off.
mean while the next blade goes in to heat heat.

I take the last blade out of the drip tube wipe it down and check it for warping, the blade temp right now, if you do this at the right speed is at about 350 deg's, this is the time to straiten it, you'll have about 4-5 min's to do so from the time you first quenched it.. then
I poured 1/2 of the oil out of the tube I'm using into another tube to cool and then refill with room temp oil leaving me with ~130 deg oil again, and now ready for the next one to come out.. which will be in about two min's or less

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right now The oven is cooled to under 550 deg so I set it up (the evenheat) to temper all the blade at once..at 550 deg's for two hours,,
BTW these quenched very nice and new file can't touch them..
I'll be back with other info if you are interested :) if you have any questions please feel free to do so..
 
Thanks Dan. So you don't have to heat the blades first (like you do with the powder) before applying the new wet PBC ?? Nice looking work there buddy :thumbup: :thumbup: Thanks for taking the time to post the info & pics ;)
 
Dan,
I used it yesterday for the first time. Not terribly impressed. I did not have the sack to try it on a blade, so I just tried it on some hunks of bladesteel I had waiting to be profiled. The 1095/15N20 damascus mix @ 1500 faired much better than the Sandvik stainless I tried @ 1900. Both showed some areas of decarb, the Sandvik much more so. I need to add that I did NOT quench the damascus, just wanted to try a normalizing cycle, so this may have affected the outcome. Also after 30 mins @1900 I just shut the oven off and let the Sandvik come down to temp on its own to avoid hardening. Perhaps had I quenched it on plates the results would have been better. For now tho I'm just really glad that I didn't TEST it on a blade. It takes me too long to grind a nice one to eff it up in HT:( Ordered some foil from Tracy last night and still have some regular PBC thankfully. Glad to hear your results were better than mine.
Incidentally mine came from what I read was the maker of the product Bownells sells: Advanced Technical Products in Cincinnati. They mailed me a second container free shortly after I received the first one, and before I could try it. They said that they had discovered that the lot# I received for the first batch was faulty and wanted to replace it.
Matt Doyle
Matt
 
I had no luck with it either. Decarb, and splotches. Maybe I also got a bad batch. I will call Brownell's!
 
It is a boron based powder that is sprinkled on a preheated blade, 500o, to 600o, to prevent scaleing and decarb. The powder melts from the heat and covers the area you want to protect. When in the oven, or forge, it melts again and becomes a semi hard coating. It is especially useful in soaking at high heat. It comes in two grades, one for 1650o, and another for upwards of 2000o, or close. The powder eliminates the need for a foil cover.
 
_Claims_ to eliminate that is. "regular" PBC is 100% solid, assuming
you are careful to cover the whole blade with it. It comes off real EZ
too: 90% come off during quench, the rest comes off when you rinse
the blades in boiling hot water.

On "PBC Special" the jury is still out. I had _bad pitting with it and it was
an absolute b1tch to remove after HT.
 
Thanks Dan. So you don't have to heat the blades first (like you do with the powder) before applying the new wet PBC ?? Nice looking work there buddy :thumbup: :thumbup: Thanks for taking the time to post the info & pics ;)

no David just get it on the blade..and let it dry.. oh and BTW thanks :)


Mat I have not tried it on anything over 1500 deg's as of yet..so I don't know what will happen..up at that end..

I dipped the blanks two times letting them dry in between
and one day before the H/T

as said most of the PBC/S came off right after the quench and wiping down the blade.. there were a fair amount that looked like decarb but it was stuck on PBC/S, I believe anyway, because I got no pitting...

The rest came off with a scotch belt, and came of fair to med hard I'd say.
it was a lot more problem getting off than the reg stuff..

as said, I didn't care a lot about the finish on these ones anyway
so it didn't bother me a lot to try it out.. on this type blade, I will use it again.. once I cleaned the blades up with the Scotch belt I used FC to blacken them, they don't look half bad I might say too..

the blades are done , but I have to get the handles done now..
I need to spend some time back down on the coast next week so it will be the end of next week before I can get some done with pictures..
no more internet down there :(
 
well here they are..
the blades are a little blochie I just used FC to blacken them..
handles are Green cavas Micarta,, I can still taste IT :barf:
ESK14.JPG
 
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