Using stainless/nickel for bolsters and pins

[Langadune]

If I use something like 416 stainless for handle pins or bolsters, is there a need to heat treat them? Will they polish up and "be stainless" without a heat treat?

I guess the same goes for nickel. I'm not familiar with these yet.

 

[mccandmatt]

I just started using stainless pins and they polish up nicely without heat treating

 

[james terrio]

There's no need to heat-treat 416 or n/s. They're ready to use and finish just the way you buy them.

N/S is not really stainless; it will develop a patina (but not rust). I like the look of patina'ed n/s; many others disagree.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I use NS whenever possible in stead of SS. The main difference is that the SS will get VERY hot in sanding, and can burn a ring around the rivet in the wood. Try and avoid getting any rivet hot, as it also breaks down the glue that holds it in the scale.

 

[james terrio]

Another note... use the same material for bolsters and pins. If you use, say, 416 to pin down a n/s bolster, the pins will look slightly different when finished/polished and it will stick out like a sore thumb. Most makers like their pins to blend in with the bolster as much as possible.

 

[Langadune]

Thanks alot guys. Looks I'm gonna have to give it a try.

 

[Langadune]

Reviving a something of a dead thread...

I'm also looking now at 316 stainless with 316 stainless pins as bolsters. Will these "clean up nicely" like the finer steels (AEB-L, 440C, 154CM) and hold a decent finish? I'm also considering N/S and curious where ya'll get yours.

 

[Justin Presson]

Not to high jack your thread Langadune but I was at a metal shop the other day and picked up some stainless 1/8 and 3/16 stainless round stock that I think they said was 310 is that ok to use for pins?

 

[HallHandmade]

3 series stainless will probably be fine, but the 4 series are easier to work for our purposes. They don't seem to gall as easily.

When rough filing guards, etc, it seems that the 4 series just work more crisply if that makes sense.

They definitely can warm up as mentioned above, so I try to make sure that guards and bolsters are as close to final as possible, and pin lengths as well. Saves a lot of time standing at the sander waiting for things to cool between passes.