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I thought I would add my $ .02 to the question posed in the thread “Kevin, or Mete', sword of 01”, however I have always been uncomfortable with thread titles addressed to specific individuals due to the exclusionary overtones, and I really don’t wish to be another little tin god on the knifemaking scene, so I have reposted here where I invite all with some input to also give answers. Posts within threads addressed specifically to me are different and work fine but whole threads with my name in the title make me out to be much more important than I am. But don’t sweat it LRB, I am not upset and am more than happy to share what I can, I just want anybody else to feel welcome to do so as well.
But so as not to make this some odd thread that is really just an out of place post from another, I thought I would share some of my notes on the “Steel Selection” part of one of my classes.
I divide knives into three using categories, slicers, choppers and piercers. The piercers are a touchy category that I chose to name piercers instead of stabbers or thrusters due to the touchy and politically charged overtones, and are really not at versitile in legitimate uses outside of combat so I will focus on the other two.
Within slicers and coppers I recognize two types of cutting mechanisms on the microscopic level. There are saws and wedges. Wedges excel in the push cut by separating materials and smoothly displacing them. Saws use rakers to tear materials fibers out the way in a draw cutting action. In both of these edge geometry will play a very significant role but for the other major factor, heat treating, we will discuss the chemistry of the steel.
True choppers work within a realm dominated by different factors than many knives and are primarily used as wedges more than saws. While some swords can be used well for draw cuts almost all see their most cutting potential in a cleaving wedge action. In such use impact toughness is more critical than abrasion resistance and your steel choice may be determined with this in mind.
The simplest and oldest way to get better toughness is to simply lower the hardness, this is the way it was done for centuries and how the majority of sword makers still approach things today. The problem with sticking with this ancient method is that it doesn’t seem to take into account the development alloying. With a straight carbon steel going above HRC 55 can mean brittleness and catastrophic failure in a sword. However with the inclusion of other elements to help reinforce the iron matrix most properties change dramatically and one can get much higher toughness at a significantly higher hardness.
The next simplest way to obtain toughness is through carbon content, but this method is very similar to the hardness method in that it will always be a compromise between strength and ductility. Steels with carbon content less than .45% will suffer enough from insufficient hardness that I will not cover them here, but a blade made from steel that has less than .6% Carbon will still noticeably harden with a slightly different makeup. Those who have looked into it will have encountered the two morphologies of martensite- lathe and plate (did you really think it was as simple as one martensite and that is it?). Plate martensite forms in steels that are .6% carbon or less due to the temperatures at which this ratio makes the stuff. Lathe martensite consists of nicely symmetrical lathe packets that look almost like fern fronds in the steel, but more importantly it forms along more order rational habit planes so the arrangement is much less chaotic and stressed. In steel with more than 1% carbon you will form plate martensite that looks more like a shattered window piled in a bucket than pretty fern fronds, and works off from irrational habit planes that impinge upon each other at high angles creating a much more stressful situation, so this stuff is very brittle. In the range from .6 to 1.0% carbon you will get varying mixes of lathe and plate. So staying at .6% or lower in carbon content will automatically give you a tougher steel.
Now for the elements, if toughness is what you are looking for you are looking for elements that favor iron more than carbon. Those that like carbon will form carbides and carbide is always more brittle than iron based solutions. Two elements that come to mind immediately for this are nickel and silicon. Neither care much for carbon and will want to nestle in between iron atoms instead. This will enhance the softer ferrites ability to resist deformation and coming apart. However some elements, such as chromium, can also lend a hand in propping up the ferrite, I know what you are saying – hey Kevin isn’t chrome a carbide former? Yes it is, but chromium is also capable of dissolving somewhat in ferrite even in high carbon levels (see “Alloying Elements in Steel” by E. C. Bain).
So with these thoughts in mind we can help narrow our sword steel choices by looking at the chemistry first. Steel with nickel or silicon will allow us to go higher in hardness while maintaining good toughness. Steel with carbon levels around .6% will lend even more toughness, and as long as we avoid carbide formers there will be enough to reach a formidable martensite hardness. If we see things like vanadium, tungsten, columbium etc… then the carbon must go up accordingly to feed these greedy elements and still have enough to reach the hardness levels we desire. And when this happens many more carbides are formed and this will affect toughness if not carefully dealt with. And then you will end up with all kinds of whacked out things like intentional alloy banding and segregation that would not have been necessary if the maker just would have chosen a steel suited for the task.
It is not that O1 would make a bad sword, and many of the arguments I have heard against O1 over the years could be best handled by the grumblers learning how to heat treat this steel properly. But O1 has some added features that are overkill in areas not critical for sword use. O1 is a slicer steel more than a chopper steel due to it focus on abrasion resistance. It can make a nice sword, but L6 would beat it in that capacity. 5160, with its lower carbon and chromium boost would probably also be more suitable, not because it is a better steel but just simple efficiency, it is not loaded with a bunch of unnecessary features.
As far as the tempering range of O1 being a problem with a drop in impact strength, a phenomenon known as TME (tempered martensite embrittlement) I doubt I have pointed much to O1 for this issue. In the range of 450F to 550F L6 shows a significant dip in the toughness curve while O1 shows a plateau at the most. So in this case O1 does actually have the upper hand
But so as not to make this some odd thread that is really just an out of place post from another, I thought I would share some of my notes on the “Steel Selection” part of one of my classes.
I divide knives into three using categories, slicers, choppers and piercers. The piercers are a touchy category that I chose to name piercers instead of stabbers or thrusters due to the touchy and politically charged overtones, and are really not at versitile in legitimate uses outside of combat so I will focus on the other two.
Within slicers and coppers I recognize two types of cutting mechanisms on the microscopic level. There are saws and wedges. Wedges excel in the push cut by separating materials and smoothly displacing them. Saws use rakers to tear materials fibers out the way in a draw cutting action. In both of these edge geometry will play a very significant role but for the other major factor, heat treating, we will discuss the chemistry of the steel.
True choppers work within a realm dominated by different factors than many knives and are primarily used as wedges more than saws. While some swords can be used well for draw cuts almost all see their most cutting potential in a cleaving wedge action. In such use impact toughness is more critical than abrasion resistance and your steel choice may be determined with this in mind.
The simplest and oldest way to get better toughness is to simply lower the hardness, this is the way it was done for centuries and how the majority of sword makers still approach things today. The problem with sticking with this ancient method is that it doesn’t seem to take into account the development alloying. With a straight carbon steel going above HRC 55 can mean brittleness and catastrophic failure in a sword. However with the inclusion of other elements to help reinforce the iron matrix most properties change dramatically and one can get much higher toughness at a significantly higher hardness.
The next simplest way to obtain toughness is through carbon content, but this method is very similar to the hardness method in that it will always be a compromise between strength and ductility. Steels with carbon content less than .45% will suffer enough from insufficient hardness that I will not cover them here, but a blade made from steel that has less than .6% Carbon will still noticeably harden with a slightly different makeup. Those who have looked into it will have encountered the two morphologies of martensite- lathe and plate (did you really think it was as simple as one martensite and that is it?). Plate martensite forms in steels that are .6% carbon or less due to the temperatures at which this ratio makes the stuff. Lathe martensite consists of nicely symmetrical lathe packets that look almost like fern fronds in the steel, but more importantly it forms along more order rational habit planes so the arrangement is much less chaotic and stressed. In steel with more than 1% carbon you will form plate martensite that looks more like a shattered window piled in a bucket than pretty fern fronds, and works off from irrational habit planes that impinge upon each other at high angles creating a much more stressful situation, so this stuff is very brittle. In the range from .6 to 1.0% carbon you will get varying mixes of lathe and plate. So staying at .6% or lower in carbon content will automatically give you a tougher steel.
Now for the elements, if toughness is what you are looking for you are looking for elements that favor iron more than carbon. Those that like carbon will form carbides and carbide is always more brittle than iron based solutions. Two elements that come to mind immediately for this are nickel and silicon. Neither care much for carbon and will want to nestle in between iron atoms instead. This will enhance the softer ferrites ability to resist deformation and coming apart. However some elements, such as chromium, can also lend a hand in propping up the ferrite, I know what you are saying – hey Kevin isn’t chrome a carbide former? Yes it is, but chromium is also capable of dissolving somewhat in ferrite even in high carbon levels (see “Alloying Elements in Steel” by E. C. Bain).
So with these thoughts in mind we can help narrow our sword steel choices by looking at the chemistry first. Steel with nickel or silicon will allow us to go higher in hardness while maintaining good toughness. Steel with carbon levels around .6% will lend even more toughness, and as long as we avoid carbide formers there will be enough to reach a formidable martensite hardness. If we see things like vanadium, tungsten, columbium etc… then the carbon must go up accordingly to feed these greedy elements and still have enough to reach the hardness levels we desire. And when this happens many more carbides are formed and this will affect toughness if not carefully dealt with. And then you will end up with all kinds of whacked out things like intentional alloy banding and segregation that would not have been necessary if the maker just would have chosen a steel suited for the task.
It is not that O1 would make a bad sword, and many of the arguments I have heard against O1 over the years could be best handled by the grumblers learning how to heat treat this steel properly. But O1 has some added features that are overkill in areas not critical for sword use. O1 is a slicer steel more than a chopper steel due to it focus on abrasion resistance. It can make a nice sword, but L6 would beat it in that capacity. 5160, with its lower carbon and chromium boost would probably also be more suitable, not because it is a better steel but just simple efficiency, it is not loaded with a bunch of unnecessary features.
As far as the tempering range of O1 being a problem with a drop in impact strength, a phenomenon known as TME (tempered martensite embrittlement) I doubt I have pointed much to O1 for this issue. In the range of 450F to 550F L6 shows a significant dip in the toughness curve while O1 shows a plateau at the most. So in this case O1 does actually have the upper hand