Car Storage Checklist v1.0
by Rob Chong
Excerpt from article previously published in Hoofprints.
1. Get underbody of vehicle oiled and rust proofed. (Krown, Rust Check, Ziebart, Apple Auto Glass etc.)
2. Optional: Give vehicle a quick wash to get rid of dirt and contaminants on the paint surface. (The anti-rust overspray on the side of the vehicle doesn't harm the paint. If in doubt check with the sprayer.) (Dry thoroughly with terry cloths or chamois. You can also at this time polish and wax the vehicle for added paint protection.)
3. Change oil and filter. 5W30 or 10W30 oil is good enough for storing. (Quaker, Castrol etc.)
4. Add anti-rust treatment to Radiator. (Prestone etc.)
5. Add one bottle of upper cylinder lubricant. (Karbout by Rislone or Top Oil by Bardahl etc.)
6. Add one bottle of Fuel Injector/Carburetor cleaner to fuel tank. (STP, Wynn's etc.)
7. Add one bottle of moisture/water remover to fuel tank, that does not contain alcohol. (STP, Wynn's etc.)
8. Add one bottle of gas storage/stabilizer/conditioner to the fuel tank. (Stabil, STP etc.)
9. Fill gas tank with PREMIUM fuel. (Sunoco 94 Octane etc.)
10. Inflate 4-6 psi over correct recommended pressure in the owners manual- and check every two-three weeks or so after. (Install Tire Minders Pressure Gauges on the valve stems. These change color as the pressure drops and make visual checks easier.)
11. Lay down carpet and or plastic on garage floor to prevent moisture.
12. Go for your last drive, run engine to proper operating temp or go for a good 20-30 minute drive, get home,
park the car, shut it off.
13. Open hood, remove battery from car, clean battery cables, and battery tray. Put battery in safe place away from the cold. Clean and spray the terminals with Rust Check either red or green can. Check it every month to make sure it retains a charge, use an automatic trickle type battery charger that if required.
14. When engine is cool, do the normal checks, top up any fluids that needs it.
15. Pull off the rubber hose at the bottom of the windshield washer tank and drain.
16. Lift off the air cleaner, lube all the linkages with a drop or two of light oil.
(Do not spray any heavy lubricating oil down carb. throat. This will gum up the carb.)
17. Change the fuel filter, check hoses and clamps.
(Replace that bronze type fuel filter in the carburetor with a small inline see thru type filter.)
18. Grease all fittings on suspension and drive train with grease, top up transmission and differential fluids.
(Use proper rear axle gear fluid, limited slip versus a locking diff. requires different and specific gear lube.)
19. Use Rust Check Gel in Green can to spray and lube door hinges and all latches and lock mechanisms.
20. Spray all the chrome pieces with Rust Check in Red can. Bumpers, moldings, door handles etc.
21. Spray your wheels and rims with Rust Check in Red can. Dab a bit of Rust Check on any Paint Chips.
22. Open trunk, remove everything including spare tire etc. Clean out all the garbage from the interior.
(This is to get as much weight off of the suspension as possible.)
23. Vacuum the interior, clean vinyl, plastic, leather with proper cleaners and protectants.
24. Remove the wiper blades and put them inside the car- or you can stuff a clean rag under each arm so the
wiper blades themselves are raised a half inch or so and is not resting on the windshield.
(This will keep the blades from getting flat and useless next year.)
25. If Rodents are a problem then get some moth balls or strong smelling soap. Place inside car, trunk and under hood. (Be warned though that like most smells, the hardy rat and mice can and will get used to the strong scent eventually.)
26. To absorb moisture inside car: use silica gel packs, buy them from a store or recycle them from shipping containers, or place 6 to 12 pieces of new/unused barbecue charcoal briquettes in a pie tin or open top container and place container inside car. Also place another container of briquettes inside trunk. Roll up windows, close doors, hood and trunk.
27. Raise car up a bit to take about 1/2 weight off of suspension and put on four jackstands- but Do Not let the suspension hang. (Remember to keep checking the tire air pressure regularly, and inflate to normal air pressure plus 4-6 psi more just in case of a slow leak.)
28. Cover car with a good car cover- Not Plastic. One that is breathable and does not trap moisture underneath. (Don't be cheap, get a good new cover and throw away that oil soaked blanket.)
Do not start the car and leave it running after storage. This is a waste of time. It will not lubricate the engine or drive train properly and will attract moisture once the engine has cooled down and this will cause rust.
Spring/Summer Tips
1. Change Oil and Filter, as well as Fuel filter if needed. Use regular or Synthetic motor oil, your choice.
2. Repack front wheel bearings with grease.
3. Check tires for damage etc. reinstall and re-inflate tires to correct air pressure.
4. Grease all fittings, hinges and suspension with appropriate type grease.
5. Check for any oil or fluid leaks. Check oil, trans fluid, coolant level, brake fluid windshield washer fluid etc.
Also check for cracked or broken hoses.
6. Pull door panels and coat with Rust Check. Check if door skins need replacing.
Check door fuzzies or weather-stripping to see if they need to be replaced.
7. Replace/fix any worn, loose/vibrating parts. Such as wiring, cables, springs, shocks,
headlights, parking lights, weather-stripping, mirrors, brake pads, hose fittings etc.
8. Check for any rust. Fix immediately!!!
9. Touch up any paint chips then Wash, Polish and Wax.
10. Get a fire extinguisher and keep it handy then:
Start the car and listen to the engine, make sure it sounds healthy. If not give it a tune up, check fuel hoses etc.
Check color of exhaust gases coming from tailpipes to make sure it's not burning oil (black/blue smoke) or not burning the fuel enough (black speckled residue sometimes mixed with moisture.) Sometimes certain cars are just plain oil burners and the various symptoms that would raise alarm bells in modern cars can be ignored in older muscle cars. Have it checked by a proper mechanic if you suspect anything is wrong.
If everything checks out, make sure to phone your Insurance Agent/Broker and put Full Coverage back on your vehicle- then......
Go for a spin. Enjoy!"
Warning: you follow Rob's advice at your own discretion; I myself park my Mustang in an underground garage and once a month, when the roads are dry, I drive it around the neighbourhood until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
) Had that happen after an eight month store and it was very annoying (thumpity thump).
Not me! Some of the nicest 'rides' I've taken with my various convertibles have been through late Fall. Unlike my knives, every one of my cars (and I've had some SERIOUS rides) has been an EDD = Every Day Driver (unless there was actually snow ON the roads). I just wish I had some mechanical skills.