Venturi Burner Question

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Sep 27, 2004
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Hello,
Prior to the HI where i'll be building a forge, I acquired a Venturi burner kit off ellis refractory's site. Darren was good enough to supply everything I needed but I believe I misplaced or lost the instructions during unpacking.
IMG_463.jpg


This burner kitcomes disassembled. I have it now built but have left a small copper tip with a tiny hole in it. I think it must go somehow on the end of that thin pipe that leads into the back of the burner tube. It a 1/4" pipe, but I think something needs to be inside or on the end of it based on IG's burner plans. Do I need to tap that pipe to accept the tip? It must be a contact tip?

Darren was good enough to ship this posthaste and I know they are away from the office.
 
Hey!!! The 1 1/2" black pipe is cheap. The burner that I make cost under $20. Instead of getting the 90 degees elbow get a 1 1/2 " T and a cap for one outlet. It is easyer to drill the cap and tap it for the 1/4 NPT.
Bring the one that you have too. :barf:
 
Cool, ill do that and bring it all. Ill prolly leave salem at 7 and get there early to fiddle with this stuff a bit.
 
TikTock said:
Cool, ill do that and bring it all. Ill prolly leave salem at 7 and get there early to fiddle with this stuff a bit.
Isn't it almost a 2 hour ride??? How long does it take you to get to Boston??? :confused:
 
Oh crapola youre right...mapquest says 1.5 hours...factor in coffee...snooze alarm....maybe I should leave after 6 at some time....
 
Sounds like the gas orfice. The orfice is drilled out to a specific size to allow the proper gas flow measured in btu's through to ignite the burner tip.
This is a critical piece. If you leave it out and ignite
the burner you will have a very large flame with possible blowback which could burn you if you are standing close. Look closely downstream of the gas valve and you should find a place in the line normally just in front of the venturi, (adjustable air shutters to the burner, which are probably not on this burner)
It you are unable to find where if goes, look in the yellow pages and take it to your local Propane Company and they will be glad to help you.
Be sure and tell them you are going to be burning a lot of their gas! BTW,
If it is not a American Gas Assoc approved piece for use,they are required (if they are aware) not to allow use of the equipment with their gas.
Good Luck!
Jon
 
Satchmo said:
Sounds like the gas orfice. The orfice is drilled out to a specific size to allow the proper gas flow measured in btu's through to ignite the burner tip.
This is a critical piece. If you leave it out and ignite
the burner you will have a very large flame with possible blowback which could burn you if you are standing close. Look closely downstream of the gas valve and you should find a place in the line normally just in front of the venturi, (adjustable air shutters to the burner, which are probably not on this burner)
It you are unable to find where if goes, look in the yellow pages and take it to your local Propane Company and they will be glad to help you.
Be sure and tell them you are going to be burning a lot of their gas! BTW,
If it is not a American Gas Assoc approved piece for use,they are required (if they are aware) not to allow use of the equipment with their gas.
Good Luck!
Jon

Scary!

Yeah I think I know where this thing should go...but my 1/4" pipe just doesnt seem tapped for the tip....
 
You are correct, that tip goes on the inside end of the gas pipe. Chances are it is a Tweako welding tip size .035. About the same size as a #58 drill bit. The burner will not function properly without that tip.

Here is a link to a .pdf that shows how it goes together - http://www.geocities.com/zoellerforge/pipeburn.pdf

I have built five or six for myself and friends. They work well even for forge welding is your forge is right.

Seth
 
You will need a 1/4-28 tap to thread the end of the nipple. Then just screw the mig tip into the nipple.
 
After the second or third I got to where I was lazy and didn't even bother to tap them. I ground the the tip until it fit into the .25 nipple and let friction and a little JB Weld hold it in place. Never had a problem. Just take a little extra time making sure the tip point as close to dead center down the burner that you can. Also you want the end of the tip around the middle of the opening of the air intake hole, that is what has worked best for me anyway. YMMV ; )

Seth
 
nc_cooter said:
You will need a 1/4-28 tap to thread the end of the nipple. Then just screw the mig tip into the nipple.
TicDick I have the taps and drills just make sure you copy the info :D .
 
TikTock said:
i may have that tap and drill....ill go check it out
I have it just got to find it in the piles of rubble around here. What time are you leaving??? 6:00AM then snooze???? :eek:
 
I keep looking at your nozzle assembly at the beginning of this thread. The way it is now, the incoming air has to make a 90 degree turn to the left (and could try to go to the right also I guess, depends all on pressure). By changing the fittings around, you could have your incoming air come in straight from the end of the pipe, and will in fact help the gas via lower pressure at the gas orfice. Then again, it may not make a rats arrss which way you go.
 
Well I tapped it and hooked it up. I have no idea how to use this thing or how much gas should be coming out of it, but when I turn it on it goes WOOOOSH and theres a 10"+ blue flame blasting out the front.....is that good? Heres a pic of whats coming out right now:
burner.jpg
 
MyMy thats purty. I'll get the hot dogs. Marshmellows anyone? Fred
 
You guys work at this to hard!
Use 1/4" soft copper tubing, place the proper size drill bit in the business end, line it up dead center and crimp it tight with a pair of pliers. Remove the drill bit and you have your jet/orfice with no tapping, no grinding, no nothing. Mark turned me on to this little trick. I'll never go back to bothering with tweecos. So far the first ones I made have lasted over a year and my forge sees a lot of hot time.
 
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