Veritas honing compound is excellent!

Matt :

[CrO / AO buffing compound]

Does this mean I might have trouble stropping my Spyderco Military in CPM 440V? I was hoping that this honing stuff might finally let me get a polished edge on it. I can get a sharp, aggressive edge, but I cant seem to get a fine "hair poppin" edge. I've found after I've used the flats of the white sharpmaker sticks, it's best to go back to the corners of the coarser ones to "scratch up" the edge since I cant get a polished edge.
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Spyderco is leaving their CPM-440V at about 55RC which is fairly soft, combine that with a very wear resistant structure and you have the ideal recipe for inducing a large burr formation and thus preventing a high level of fine push cutting ability. It is absolutely critical to go as light as you can on the hones and switch sides as often as possible, every stroke if you do it. The hones should be as clean as possible as well. If the edge gets really dull, I would reset it on a diamond stone before using the Sharpmaker as well, proceed to the finest diamond stone you have and just use the Sharpmaker to clean up the edge.

In regards to the CrO / AO buffing compound, no it will not cut the carbides in the 440V (S60V), however it will readily cut the steel matrix that surround them and this is what forms the edge anyway. It can be used to put the final polish on a high alloy steel, but if used excessively it will just induce a blunting action as it can't cut the carbides. Note for the same reason if there is a large burr on a high alloy steel, the buffing compound is not effective in removing it. However there are SiC lapping compounds that are very fine (5 micron) that will do this readily. You would then switch to the CrO / AO compound for the final polish.


-Cliff
 
Walt,Kerosene is the same thing as coal oil,it is used in lamps,some heaters,etc. You can find it at hardware stores,some gas stations carry it in bulk 55 gallon drums that they pump from,bring your own container.
 
Originally posted by MJHKNIVES
Walt,Kerosene is the same thing as coal oil,it is used in lamps,some heaters,etc. You can find it at hardware stores,some gas stations carry it in bulk 55 gallon drums that they pump from,bring your own container.
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I am familiar with kerosene. I used kerosene lamps to read by when I was a kid. It is just a little hard to find around here. You have to look for it unless you buy enough to be familiar with who is selling it.
 
Thanks for the answers Cliff. I'll have to be a little more patient when sharpening my Military next time.

I got the honing paste stuff on Saturday. It seems to work pretty stinkin well. I like it. One problem I have though is when I polish my edge on a piece of leather loaded with that stuff, I end up getting a slightly convex edge, since the leather is sort of soft and "smooshes" (technical term) down when I press the edge onto it. This isnt a big deal, but it will force me to rebevel my edge a little more often.

Any advice on how to prevent this? Someone mentioned using cardboard instead of leather. I might find a piece of thin cardboard to use and that might prevent this. Does anyone else see this happening?

--Matt
 
What a wealth of information. I am a NEWBIE and I now hold more information than I have ever expected EXCEPT the appropriate stropping motions that should be made. Could someone explain how to strop an edge. simple and stupid, but I need to Learn it RIGHT......wolf
 
Mundele :

[convex profile]

Does anyone else see this happening?
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Yes, but I don't see it as a problem, as I consider it the optimum profile. If you want a pure flat bevel then yes use a stiffer backing, wood is often used for various wood working tools.

Wolfmann601 :

how to strop an
edge
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The blade is held on the strop with the edge facing away from you. You pull it towards you gently trying to maintain a smooth stroke. When you are finished a pass you lift the blade up, turn it over and push it away from you with the edge now facing towards you. Thus the edge is always trailing, against the direction of motion, opposite to how you would usually hone on a benchstone.

If the blade has any curvature then as you are stropping you rotate the blade so that the section of blade being hit by the strop is as close to perpendicular (straight across) as you can get. If you are using a soft medium like leather then it is more forgiving to sloppy technique than a hard backing like wood. For the latter you need to be as precise as when using a benchstone.

-Cliff
 
Thank you so very much. It is extremely important to do it right. I was NOT, now I shall. Thanks again.....wolf
 
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