Vertical Mill - Getting it home?

P

Protactical

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Aug 24, 2003
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I have a line on a vertical mill it's about 1550 pounds, and my truck is a 6 cyl F-150 from '97. Assuming a fork lift gets it into the box (6' length). Can the frame handle that much weight (it's on a pallet), and can the engine haul it. Really I think 1500 is no big deal for the engine, but for the box, I don't want to crater it. Apparently the head comes off, and other stuff should, but may not be practical under the circumstances.

Also, I have stuff to get a mill out of the truck at home, but, I am fascinated by home made Jib cranes, Gantry cranes, low clearance trailers, any good sites on those subjects would be great!

Thanks
 
Rent a trailer from U-Haul?
It will keep the bed from getting dinged and scraped.
I know all about that part, and mine was a little 660 pounder...
 
You aren't gonna mess up your frame or over work that engine with 1,500 lbs. You could set 4,000 lbs in the back of that truck and drive over speed bumps and rail road track all day long without messing up the frame (you would have the spring bumpers bottomed out!). I'm fairly sure your truck bed capacity is more like 2,000 lbs. I know my old one ton is rated for 4,500 in the bed. So what do they mean exactly by half ton? I don't really know...

Your problem is the soft suspension, coupled with a high center of gravity on the mill, makes for a dangerous see-saw ride. I wouldn't take it up to high speed or very far. I'd set it as far forward in the bed as you can. I'd make sure it was strapped down good.
 
Look around and borrow a small tandem trailer rated for that weight.
It'll be easier to load and un-load from a lower height.
Safer.
Be careful.
 
There is good advice posted here! These machines are very top heavy and need extra consideration when you secure them for transport.

For unloading, I have frequently used a wrecker from a local towing service. They'll come out for about $45-60. Use the boom to lift your machine out of the trailer and set it in place. If you need to move it, place it on 3 round bars..say 3/4 to 1" dia and roll it like the Eqyptians scooting a hugemungus monolith across the desert. Pull one roller out and move it to the front and repeat. A spud bar is handy to pinch the machine into perfect position.

Use some creative thinking, a little leverage and in no time, your new machine will be nestled in the corner of your shop, chunking away on a piece of steel. Your only problem will be when your wife starts finding metal chips in the laundry:D!!

Have fun!!

-Rob
 
I have the same type of truck. I would not haul a mill in it because it will be top heavy.
You also need a way to secure it. The truck does not have a suffient means built in for tie downs. I also would get a small tandem trailer and use good ratchet straps to secure it to the trailer. These things can and will has a tendacy to bounce around on the road.
 
second on the rent a trailer, use a towtruck advice, that is how a place I used to work brought in the Bridgeport they got at an auction. If you put that much weight in your truck bed you may or may not mess up the frame, but you run a good chance of breaking springs, probably your axle, and being dangerously out of control. I got a pickup truck once that had a bent axle, literally the axle shaft bent at the bearing about 8 degrees, towbarring it home was a bit disconconcerting! Use a trailer, be safe unloading it, and heed the warning about metal chips in the laundry!

-Page
 
The F-150 means 1500 lbs weight capacity [passenger+ load] and it involves tires ,brakes,frame etc !! The new F-150s are rated higher .How far are you going ? I'd rent a bigger truck or a trailer .
 
If you can get it on pallet you will have a much easier time moving it. Rent a truck with a power lift gate. Easy on and easy off with a pallet jack.
 
If you don't trust your truck and can't rent a bigger one a small cattle trailer might work. I know a guy who moved an old concrete safe that way.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Deals like this normally come up for me in the states, and I have to drive as much as 500, or more, miles to get the stuff back. I hauled 3 9 south bends, a 6-700 pound burke horizontal mill, and a HF mini mill in this truck during the spring. Power wise it was OK, I got the feeling I was a little low on the springs, though I stil had lots of wheel well clearance, and the truck, I think was sitting level. I've put way more wood in there from my chainsaw mill, but the footprint is much more spread out, and I didn't go very far.

Since there are some F-150 experts here, from the sound of it, riddle me this: Why does, all of a sudden the brake light make the overhead cabin light go on? ANd what is afoot when the stearing gets stiff or grindy during the winter cold. I do regular maintenance at the dealer, so I'm not really into trashing the truck, but I don't like pointing out too much stuff to them, if I don't have to...
 
You must have a short somewhere for the lights to act up. BTW I had a '97 like yours and now I have a 2003. There is a big difference in the electrical systems !!! The 2003 is designed by Rube Goldberg ! No kidding ,making changes in the 97 was easy but the 2003 is a nightmare.
 
I know what you mean, along with being cheap, I wouldn't mind sticking with this truck for another 10 years just to stay with a simpler design. Anyway, it doesn't have huge mileage on it to date, only about 110 000 miles
 
When/If I get a Mill or some big power equipment down in Salt Lake City, I am going to add into the cost the services of Bekins in Twin. They can pick it up for me, store it in thier warehouse if need arises and deliver it and set it up for me in my shop with thier equipment and know how. I know ,its nice you have a truck ( as I have yet to get one). But man when you figure out the savings in time and hassle..whats a little money you would have spent sooner or later anyway? Life is too short for hassles if you can get around..I mean why put wear and tear on you and your truck as well as have to call in favors form friends to get the thing into your shop and all that when you can go the straight fast route? At least get a quote from a local mover and then make up your mind..its as much effort to do that as to post here on BF.:D
 
It cost $1400 bucks to have my LeBlond lathe professionally moved 3 miles by a rigging company. For the lathe it was definitely worth it, as the lathe can be damaged if it is on it's feet out of level by more than 1/4 inch, but for a milling machine, I would probably just do the towtruck or trailer option.

-Page
 
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