VERY dull knife

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fourstarclothes

Joined
May 16, 2010
Messages
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I received my mini-grip today from a user on another forum and it is it rough shape. The blade is extremely dull and it is clear one side has a steeper angle than the other. It looks as if it were used with a pull through sharpener for awhile. I have a sharp maker with the white and gray stones and I cannot seem to get it sharp. I have watched the video and read the instructions. I have put 100grit sandpaper on the stones in order to speed the process up but nothing works. I could run the knife along my face and nothing would happen it is so dull. I managed to get the blade centered and the angles lined up but it is not sharp at all. I have run it though a dozen times on the gray and white stones and stropped it but it is dulllll. I have sharpened plenty of knives without problem but this one is a different story.

Any ideas?
 
If it is a plain edge send it to Benchmade and let them put on a new edge. What is the steel?
 
Benchmade's 154cm is (IMHO) a much tougher steel than it usually gets credit for. Break out the Sharpie and a lot of patience. Don't set out trying to get it done in one sitting. Not familiar with the sharpmaker, but seem to recall other owners saying it's not the best tool for the heavier grinding. You may need a cheap bench stone to get the bevel back. Home Depot carries a 6 dollar Norton combo stone - take your time.
 
I've spent literally hours with the lansky extra coarse stone reprofiling even soft stuff like aus-6 and aus-8. It'll probably take a lot more time and effort.
 
Did you try the sharpie marker trick (as HeavyHanded suggested) to ensure you are getting all the way to the edge? When you hold the knife under a strong light edge up, can you see any reflection off of the edge? Are you getting any sort of burr that is causing you to strop? Are you over stropping or stropping at too steep of an angle? Sorry for all the questions... :)

Pictures are always fun as well.
 
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I did do the sharpie trick and it was taking the edges off fine. At first it was on the shoulders but I worked it down. This thing is in rough shape I do not know what he did to it. One side appears as if it has no shoulder, the other looks like a factory edge. I do not mind spending the time to do it, I just want to make sure I am doing it right. Im trying to get some pics but my camera doesn't want to macro in enough.
 
How do I get rid of round shoulder and how do I go from sharpening the shoulders to the actual edge? I have 30* and 40*.
 
I use the 30 to knock the shoulders off then 40 to hone the actual edge. You may need to invest in tbe diamond stones for reprofiling. That's usually the step I try to rush when getting a sharp edge and rushing never pays off. Good luck.
 
get a paper wheel system or send it to someone with one and they will make it razor sharp very quickly! I suggest not using the sharp maker system to even attempt to make anything which needs major reprofiling or sharpening sharp cuz you'll be there for hours and hours before you get anywhere. It's ok for touching stuff which is sharp up but even then I wouldnt use then for that even if I were you. I was never able to get anything anywhere near razor sharp with the hours of pratice with a sharp maker.
 
I like power tools for major metal removal. Though ironically, slower is better with power tools in order to avoid removing TOO much metal. Paper wheels are good, and I have yet to fail in getting a knife sharp with it. However, I feel the Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener would be more "newbie friendly" with the angle guides. But contrary to what the manual recommends, feeling for a burr is the real way to check your progress rather than simply running it through 5 times per side(sometimes you might need more or less).
 
Does Richard J still take sharpening jobs? If he does, you won't go wrong with him. Just ask him to put on either a 30 or 40 degree inclusive bevel so that you can touch it up on the SM. I find the sharpmaker gives me hair whittling edges in a few minutes if your bevel angles match any of it's preset ones(40 or 30).
 
Sounds like you need some magnification. I've had the sharpie decieve me by leaving a very fine line at the edge. I'm still of the opinion that the 204 should come with instructions saying you'll need a coarse stone for rebeveling. The diamond rods are only 400 grit. My old Norton coarse India was about 90-100 grit. Try the $5 coarse stones from HD or Lowes. They will take care of this one knife.

In addition to having to remove enough metal to set the bevels, you also have to remove enough to make the bevels meet. You may be at that point now if the sharpie shows you've hit the edge. I've seen old, beaten up work knives with edges (not bevels, but the cutting edge) 0.01" wide. On the 204, that will take a long time, especially if you have to correct the bevels first.
 
Go to the hardware store and get a coarse hone and start grinding. That way you will even out both sides and thin the edge for the final sharpening on the SM.
 
The extra coarse DMT diamond slab (the one with the black colored base) is what I use on very stubborn knives. Once I get the angle or profile I want, I switch to the green (extra fine) DMT slab, then 1500 grit sandpaper for a strop, then an old leather belt for a strop, then a cardboard strop covered in metal glo polishing paste for the final edge polishing. It's not a quick process, but the good news is that once you get it very sharp, a quick touch up now and then will keep a good edge for a fairly long time. Hearing too many experiences like you mention is why I've never bought a Sharpmaker.
 
fourstarclothes said:
154cm. I really want to do it on my own!
Click to expand...

If you change your mind about doing it yourself and want a really good rebuild of the bevels plus a very refined edge, you are welcome to send it to our shop for restoration. I would find it very satisfying and will do it at no charge.
 
clayallison said:
If you change your mind about doing it yourself and want a really good rebuild of the bevels plus a very refined edge, you are welcome to send it to our shop for restoration. I would find it very satisfying and will do it at no charge.
Click to expand...

Very generous of you! :thumbup:
 
Very coarse cheap wet stones, followed with arkansas stones and a strop always have worked for me. Newer technology isnt always better.
 
For quick results, use a diamond hone. I use SMKW hand held (but clamp it down); one coarse side, one fine side. Great for quick reprofiling a blade. They are only $6.99 at SMKW, plus shipping of course.

Rich
 
Get some paper wheels.. It would probably take you all of 3 minutes.. I have been where you are last year. I had hours on a Busse AD!! I was sooooo frustrated.. Then I got some paper wheels and now I enjoy this hobby/addiction much more.. search out richardj and he will be happy to help.. You can PM me and also and I am happy to walk thru the steps to help you get a system set up..
I am just paying it forward.. someone once helped me and I am forever thankful.
 
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