Very quick Linseed Oil question

True oil is linseed oil with some modification .But that too is applied in thin coats ! Tung oil is an oil [maybe linseed ? ] with a little bit of tung oil. In WWII the Japanese rifles were coated with Tung oil but our troops who handled captured rifles often had allergy problems with it !
 
True oil is linseed oil with some modification .But that too is applied in thin coats ! Tung oil is an oil [maybe linseed ? ] with a little bit of tung oil. In WWII the Japanese rifles were coated with Tung oil but our troops who handled captured rifles often had allergy problems with it !

Tung oil, at least pure tung oil "i like hopes brand" is the oil of a chinese nut that cures far faster amd far harder than linseed oil. It does not require dryers and is the basis for most finishes whos goal is tricking the consumer like teak oil. It is also the most common oil used in oil/ varnish blends
 
"Boiled linseed oil doesn't smell very pleasant but it will slowly dissipate. It isn't really 'boiled'; rather, it has chemical additives to speed up its drying after application. It's mainly those chemicals that you smell. During the application process, best to keep your axe or whatever tool in a garage, basement, on the porch, etc. And yes, open the windows.

Regarding application, this may be obvious to you but someone always comes along and asks, so: Apply generously and wipe off the excess before it dries. Otherwise you'll end up with a gummy mess. If you want a nice shine, you can rub it with a soft cloth after wiping off the excess. Apply several coats. The old-school rule was to apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year thereafter. With the modern 'boiled' stuff, however, that's probably overkill. But once a day for a few days, and then once every few years for well-used tools, is probably more than sufficient to keep your handle weatherproofed and beautiful for its working life." -storyville

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/boiled-linseed-oil.983283/#post-11188098
 
The Nordic folks soak the handle in Boiled Linseed oil for a month, take out, wipe off all excess, and let dry for a month. Then they the buff with 0000 steel wool. Sometimes they repeat or just wipe on ( and off) a few more coats with a week dry time each. One trick is to punch a slot in a jar lid with the blade and have the handle hanging down in the jar. Use plumbers putty around the top to seal the blade. Fill the jar with the oil , put on the top so the handle is submerged ( the oil won't affect any submerged blade), and set on a shelf out of sunlight.
 
The Nordic folks soak the handle in Boiled Linseed oil for a month, take out, wipe off all excess, and let dry for a month. Then they the buff with 0000 steel wool. Sometimes they repeat or just wipe on ( and off) a few more coats with a week dry time each. One trick is to punch a slot in a jar lid with the blade and have the handle hanging down in the jar. Use plumbers putty around the top to seal the blade. Fill the jar with the oil , put on the top so the handle is submerged ( the oil won't affect any submerged blade), and set on a shelf out of sunlight.
Caution on this if using a porous wood. Oil whats soaked in deep stays wet for months after everything seems cured & dry. Higher than normal temperature like in a hot car sunny day can cause oil seeping out.
 
Haven't done terribly many knife handles, but I've worked with wood quite a bit, and used linseed oil often. Used it on tool handles quite a bit as a preservative. My best luck has been a generous coat allowed to soak for a while, then wiped dry and left overnight. Repeat daily for a few days if you want to be thorough. Top it with some paste wax if you want to be that much more thorough.

I agree with those who say that you should NOT let a wet coat of linseed oil dry; you will indeed get a sticky mess.

I agree less with the warnings about not over saturating the wood, but I don't know that I would be making a knife or tool handle out of anything all that porous, so maybe that is why I haven't seen the problem.

I have used Tru-oil and like what I got from it. Again, I haven't had that much experience with knife handles, but why wouldn't a finish suitable for gunstocks be suitable for knife handles? Both items need an attractive finish that will hold up with outdoor use.

Somebody pointed out that you have to be careful of rags that have drying oils (linseed oil, tung oil) on them. That is true, and worth emphasizing. As the oils cure, heat is produced. You get a big wad of rags in your trash can where the heat can't dissipate, and you can end up with a fire. My solution is to toss them in the charcoal grill and put the lid on. When I get enough of them to make it worth fooling with I transfer to the fire pit and burn them.

Same thing can happen with epoxy, by the way. You run into it when mixing larger quantities, like if you are fiberglassing a plywood boat. Mix up a pint of epoxy and you have to use it pretty promptly; if you leave it in the mixing cup too long it might start to bubble and smoke. Probably wouldn't run into that with the small quantities that you use in knife work, but it is worth being mindful of, particularly if you make a big mess sometime and end up with a bunch of rags with uncured epoxy on them.

I can't buy in to the idea that you should only use stabilized wood or a species that doesn't need a finish. That leaves out a lot of very attractive wood species. I have a lot of carpentry tools used on jobsites and yard tools used outdoors that see a lot more sweat and dirt and rainwater than most knives do, and if I hit them with linseed oil a couple of times a year they last indefinitely. And actually look pretty good too. Obviously a matter of taste, but a lot of the stabilized wood that I see looks kind of plastic to me. Of course synthetic materials have their place. And I realize there are some types of wood that are not mechanically sound unless they are soaked in plastic. It definitely IS a matter of taste, and I don't mean to criticize what another fellow finds attractive.
 
I'm rethinking what I said about not making a knife handle out of anything porous. I might be ignorant on this one; there are an awful lot of species out there.

Lieblad - - what's an example of a wood species that is hard enough and tough enough to make a good knife handle, but porous enough to cause the problem you are talking about? I'm not trying to challenge you here - more looking for some education. I keep thinking that if the wood was that porous, it probably WOULD need to be stabilized... but then we wouldn't be rubbing linseed oil on it. But there are so many kinds of wood available that I suspect I'm about to learn something.
 
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