VFD Remote Run / Speed Help

F

Fellhoelter

Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Messages
1,367
I just got a VFD to power up my surface grinder.

I got to thinking it might be nice to vary the speed if I make a belt adapter for it.

I'd like to put the VFD in the cabinet, and have remote operation of it.
It's an open enclosure, and I don't want to fry it.

I'm sure it's capable, but I'm no electrician.

Can anyone tell me what connections I need to make for this to happen?

I'd like run/stop external, and a potentiometer for varying the speed.
I think I can use the original Grinder switch for run/stop, and I'll buy the requisite potentiometer if I don't have one.

The manual can be found HERE.
It's a Teco/Westinghouse JNEV-101-H1

Thanks
 
I used a 5 turn 10K pot for more control. I wired it and a stdp sw in a small switch box and mounted the pot and sw in the cover. On the pot, put a ohm meter on 2 legs of the pot and move the knob if the resistance changes try another leg with one lead. The legs that remain constant needs to be wired to 9 and 11 and the leg that measures a change when connect to either of the other 2 need to be connected to 10. On the forward and reverse and stop wire 8 to the center terminal of the switch and 4 and 5 to the other 2 terminals. Then you need to program the inverter using chapter 2 to tell it that s1 is forward and s2 is reverse. You must also program it to axcept the AIN signal from the pot. Follow the directions on chapter 2 on programing. Go to the functions on the list and set them to the one you want.
 
Thanks man.

Seems pretty straightforward.

I really just want run-stop for a switch, so if I understand correctly, I can use a SPST switch hooked to 8 and 4 and I shouldn't even need to change the parameter? Or hook to 8 and 5 if it's running backwards???

The thing that really confused me with the potentiometer is the FM symbol on the schematic that connects 11 to 12.
What the heck is that?
It looks like a connection or jumper to me...
 
I think you wouls still need to set the parameter to make 4 forward, unless it is the factory default. I love being able to flip the switch to change directions you can do it on the fly and it will slow the motor and restart in the opposite direction, The center position f my sw is of as it connects neither. I think the FM stands for a meter (freq) that you can connect it has nothing to do with the pot, Just uses the same common. It took me some fooling around but, I figured mine out and love it. my belt grinder and disk both have VFDs and I have them mounted up high and away and only have the pot and the switch by the machines. A flip of the switch and a twist of the knob and I have what I want.
 
Wonderful, thanks.

Too bad the motor is screwed though.

I took off the panel today to start wiring, and the insulation crumbled...

Motor repair shop, here I come.

If only I had known this 6 months ago, when I parked the thing.
 
Hello Brian

The FM Terminal (12) of the Terminal Block TM2 is an analog output that can be used to pass information about various parameters in the VFD. Unless you intend to monitor the status of the VFD with another piece of equipment, you should leave the FM terminal unconnected.

The factory default settings shown on page 17 are as follows:

S1 connected to COM - the motor turns in the forward direction
S2 connected to COM - the motor turns in the reverse direction
S4 connected to COM - Emergency Stop
AIN connected to pot - speed control

You will need to program F04 to 001 and F05 to 002 to make the VFD respond to the S1, S2, S4 and AIN inputs. The default setting for F06 may be what you need but you may have to experiment with it. Make sure F16 is 000. I think that setting F20 = 001 will reverse the direction of the pot. If that does not work, you will have to swap the connections to the outer connections of the pot as ib2v4u describes. You will have to enter the data corresponding to your motor into F43 to F47. You should be fine leaving all the other parameters at their factory default value. Check that SW1 is set at the default position and SW2 is set at V (see page 10 of the manual).

If you want both forward and reverse directions, you should use a SPDT switch with the center connected to COM. One of the poles would connect to the S1 input and the other to the S2 input. I don't know what this particular VFD would do if you connected both of the S1 and S2 inputs to COM at the same time. The direction that you get in forward depends on how you have connected the output of the VFD to the motor. If it is not the right way, swap two of the motor connections to change the direction. Alternatively, you can program F03 to 001.

For the Emergency Stop, you may want to use a red "mushroom" operator like the one in the link below. The switch that goes with it is indicated below.

www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.481/.f?category=163
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.537/.f?category=92

If you need really fine speed control, you can use a multi-turn pot. They are a few dollars more. I can send you some links if you need.

Will you need to run the motor at less than half speed for extended periods of time? If so, you should get some step pulleys to bring the motor speed back up. At less than half of the rated speed, the motor cooling fan will not be very effective and the motor may overheat.

Let me know if you need any other information.

Take care.

Phil
 
Brian

Whoops! We posted at the same time.

If it is a 1 hp motor, it may be cheaper to just buy a new one.

Good luck.

Phil
 
Wow, thanks for the highly detailed post.

I truly appreciate it.

Come February when I get back to this, it will be invaluable.
Unfortunately, I leave for Vegas in the morning, and Africa on Tuesday, so I can't even get it repaired until I return in February.

Unfortunately, as it is a surface grinder, the motor seems a bit specialized.
Not an easy replacement it seems, since the mounting is non-standard.

If anyone has a line on a motor to fit a Boyar-Shultz six-twelve, I would be interested, as one of the mounting screws is stripped.
I'm going to try and get the repair shop to fix that as well, but fear that's not something they do.
I may convince them to let me come in and do it once they have it torn apart, but it's a 100 mile drive round trip...
 
On the stripped mounting screw you have several options, They make a deal called a helicoil. It comes with a special tap that retaps the hole oversized and then you actually thread in a new set of threads.. The threads look a bit like a spring the outside is the threads for the newly tapped hole and the inside is your old threads. They work great. It might also be possible to just drill and tap the hole to one size larger. Good luck Jim
 
Oh, I'm quite familiar with my threading options.

Problem is I want the motor stripped so I don't get chips in it...
 
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