I have compared Spyderco S30V (Native) with Spyderco VG-10 (Calypso Jr), and, with very similar edge angles and actual edge bevels, the S30V holds a better edge in cardboard and pine whittling. The Calypso Jr was a better cutter in cardboard, due to better blade geometry. Interestingly, the Native seemed to be better for the whittling, it required less perceived effort.
I have yet to compare my Buck S30V to either of these, but it has a much thinner edge profile and a better blade geometry, so I expect good things from it. I have some confidence in the heat treat, with Bos on the blade.
I have no problem getting a very sharp edge on either steel. Of course I have no problem getting a very sharp edge on D2, which seems to present a problem to some.
I can't stress enough the importance of two things: Heat treat, and blade/edge geometry. With good geometry, even a dull edge will still cut well. That is why I will never buy one of those "sharpened crowbars". I have a prybar in my trunk, I carry a knife to cut. A 440A blade with decent heat treat and great geometry will outperform a thick-edged blade made out of any of the "supersteels" in any cutting job that most of us will ever encounter. And when you combine great geometry with a great steel that has been properly heat treated......
