Video Game Knife

Kevin McGovern

Kevin McGovern

Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
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My best friend is a writer for one of the biggest video game companies. They are interested in a recreation of a short sword from one of their games. This will be a display piece in one of their conference rooms. It's a bit out of my lane, but sounds like a fun project. A picture of the piece is below. I'm thinking of using 8670, since I can get that in 2" wide x .224" thick stock. I will need to blacken the blade, but it won't be used so I'm looking for a way to blacken the blade that will work well. I do have FC, so that would get it pretty dark grey, which may work. Other options are appreciated. Also, even though it won't be used, and they most likely don't want it sharp, I feel I should heat treat it. It just feels wrong not too. Thoughts?

OAL- 26"
Blade- 16"
wood handle with sparse leather wrap
lanyard hole and lanyard.

sword-fantasy.png
 
If you did it in 1095 I could parkerize it black as night for you. I don't think anything other than a coating will get 8670 very close to black but I could be wrong.
 
Ceracoat is an option if you have a facility near by that could do it for you. Out here in Mumbai where I'm at, there are a few places that do it for fairly cheap so maybe that could work?
Yeah, I think since they want a knife, it should be heat treated. They might want to do a giveaway or something later. You never know.
 
kuraki said:
If you did it in 1095 I could parkerize it black as night for you. I don't think anything other than a coating will get 8670 very close to black but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...
how about 5160? I'm having trouble finding 1095 in the thickness i want (around .25")
 
Kevin McGovern said:
My best friend is a writer for one of the biggest video game companies. They are interested in a recreation of a short sword from one of their games. This will be a display piece in one of their conference rooms. It's a bit out of my lane, but sounds like a fun project. A picture of the piece is below. I'm thinking of using 8670, since I can get that in 2" wide x .224" thick stock. I will need to blacken the blade, but it won't be used so I'm looking for a way to blacken the blade that will work well. I do have FC, so that would get it pretty dark grey, which may work. Other options are appreciated. Also, even though it won't be used, and they most likely don't want it sharp, I feel I should heat treat it. It just feels wrong not too. Thoughts?

OAL- 26"
Blade- 16"
wood handle with sparse leather wrap
lanyard hole and lanyard.

View attachment 873047
Click to expand...

Do you know what game it is from?
 
Cool project. I would HT and sharpen it. In the end I expect it would be more exciting for everyone.
 
I saw a blade yesterday that was done in a coffee soak. I couldn't believe how black it was. However, any etched coating won't hold up well. Cerakote or parkerizing would be far better.

I have seen display blades done in spray epoxy paint from Krylon, and Rustoleum "tub and tile" spray paint. There are some other spray epoxy paints that at=re good, too. I think a can is around $15.
I think the finish on some cheaper import "Wilderness Whackers" use this type paint on the surface.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I saw a blade yesterday that was done in a coffee soak. I couldn't believe how black it was. However, any etched coating won't hold up well. Cerakote or parkerizing would be far better.

I have seen display blades done in spray epoxy paint from Krylon, and Rustoleum "tub and tile" spray paint. There are some other spray epoxy paints that at=re good, too. I think a can is around $15.
I think the finish on some cheaper import "Wilderness Whackers" use this type paint on the surface.
Click to expand...
I have looked at spray epoxy (alumahide). It looks promising for this project.
 
I’ve used duracoat also with good success. Cerakote makes an air dry formula now that I hear is really good. I plan on testing some out soon.
 
If it isn't gonna see use and you want it black but to maintain the reflective properties of metal (rather than the dielectric reflection you would get from a coating), just use a cold/hot blue. For a cold blue, I would recommend Jax's Steel Blackener as I seem to get the deepest blacks from it (and it is cheap), just make sure to degrease well and apply evenly and liberally. Dipping is better than rubbing, but it can be applied smoothly with brushes as well. You could also take it to a local gunsmith or maybe machine shop and have them hot blue it. That will be more durable, though in this case, I am not sure it matters. Also, Make sure to protect it after blackening. Use a good oil to preserve afterwards.
 
I use several JAX patina products at work. They work very well. Their copper blackener and brass blackener are superior.
 
Cool project!
I wouldn't let the blade go if it weren't HT'ed.
Maybe sharpen it, so it functions but supply it with an glass case to keep it save and out of the hands of people that might get carried away with it.
 
Cerakoting would definitely be cool; a guy I use for cerakoting can get some of my work so jet black it just looks immaculate. Maybe run in the $25-50 range depending on the size... maybe you could find an amateur craftsman who could use the exposure in exchange for a cheaper price :P I don't have experience with 8670 but one of my first knives I ever made I tried Bluing the steel which actually turned out really nice looking! It took some finagling to get the finish even and clean, recoats, washes, etc. but I enjoyed the finish. It was black... but very very shiny. Like a chrome-black.

Cool sword design by the way! Plan on hardening or no since it's a display piece?
 
If it’s a display item only and going on the wall I would use Aluminum, something like 7075. And then have it black anodised. Will be pitch black and light enough to hang on the wall without needing any special mounting hardware.
 
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