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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Video- might interest some
- Thread starter NickWheeler
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Rick- The little bandsaw is a DeWalt portaband that I made a large cutting table for, as well as a bracket to mount it to the wall. I'm using Starrett blades you can get on ebay for about $30 for 5 blades. It's not my dream saw (something like a 30" DoAll 
) but it was pretty inexpensive and cuts quite well. 
Matt- 'Ya got me! :foot:
I do like red better most of the time... but I wanted to show my fancy shmancy Dykem bulb top bottle 
LOL
Weatherman- Not quite. I know the measuring clips in the video were probably hard to fully get, so....
For blades like the one in the video, I grind the edge down to about 0.015-0.020 prior to hardening/tempering. Post ht, I flat grind (from edge to spine) down to about 0.006" or so, but leave the tip a little thicker.
Then, I tilt the blade into the belt and flat grind down to damn near sharp.... but not all the way from edge to spine. It's from the edge up about 3/8." The reason for doing that, is it thins the edge down more, but without thinning it as much as if you were to flat grind that thin from spine to edge (which would basically be a REALLY wide Scandi grind).
At that point, the blade has a faceted look to it. I use the term "feathering" to describe blending/smoothing that all out. You can do that by hand with abrasives, on a disc sander, or with a rotary platen. You can do it with a slack belt, but it doesn't thin it out and blend it the way that the rotary platen or 9" disc will.
All this leaves you with a blade that is nearly sharp, right off the grinder. There is just enough "meat" behind the cutting edge to give it strength, but the edge is thin and will provide very little drag while cutting.
The stuff I just described is one of the biggest reasons I put the video together. Most factory ground blades are done with some type of automated double disc grinder. And while they should provide a blade with symmetrical grinds, they aren't going to provide a blade with the edge geometry/cutting ability that a blade ground like mine will.
TinMan- Fred nailed it. :thumbup: IMHO, it is such a great investment for a knife maker! For a machinist, you'd most likely opt for a twin beam 12"+ gauge.... for for a knife maker, the cheapy little 6" works amazingly well. I use it all the time, and for MUCH more than just scribing edges. You can get them on sale for about $40 from places like Grizzly and Enco.
) but it was pretty inexpensive and cuts quite well. Matt- 'Ya got me! :foot:
I do like red better most of the time... but I wanted to show my fancy shmancy Dykem bulb top bottle LOLWeatherman- Not quite.
I know the measuring clips in the video were probably hard to fully get, so....For blades like the one in the video, I grind the edge down to about 0.015-0.020 prior to hardening/tempering. Post ht, I flat grind (from edge to spine) down to about 0.006" or so, but leave the tip a little thicker.
Then, I tilt the blade into the belt and flat grind down to damn near sharp.... but not all the way from edge to spine. It's from the edge up about 3/8." The reason for doing that, is it thins the edge down more, but without thinning it as much as if you were to flat grind that thin from spine to edge (which would basically be a REALLY wide Scandi grind).
At that point, the blade has a faceted look to it. I use the term "feathering" to describe blending/smoothing that all out. You can do that by hand with abrasives, on a disc sander, or with a rotary platen. You can do it with a slack belt, but it doesn't thin it out and blend it the way that the rotary platen or 9" disc will.
All this leaves you with a blade that is nearly sharp, right off the grinder. There is just enough "meat" behind the cutting edge to give it strength, but the edge is thin and will provide very little drag while cutting.
The stuff I just described is one of the biggest reasons I put the video together. Most factory ground blades are done with some type of automated double disc grinder. And while they should provide a blade with symmetrical grinds, they aren't going to provide a blade with the edge geometry/cutting ability that a blade ground like mine will.
TinMan- Fred nailed it. :thumbup:
IMHO, it is such a great investment for a knife maker! For a machinist, you'd most likely opt for a twin beam 12"+ gauge.... for for a knife maker, the cheapy little 6" works amazingly well. I use it all the time, and for MUCH more than just scribing edges. You can get them on sale for about $40 from places like Grizzly and Enco.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2006
- Messages
- 5,523
Awesome stuff Nick.
As usual, informative as hell.
I don't do much stock removal lately, but now I wish I had your grinders! I really need that surface grinding set up..that is to cool.
I would end up flattening just about everything in the house...forks, wrenches...you name it.
I am with Morrow...I loved the video...but that easy listening stuff doesn't add to the experience at all.
Gene
As usual, informative as hell.
I don't do much stock removal lately, but now I wish I had your grinders! I really need that surface grinding set up..that is to cool.
I would end up flattening just about everything in the house...forks, wrenches...you name it.
I am with Morrow...I loved the video...but that easy listening stuff doesn't add to the experience at all.
Gene
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
- Messages
- 385
Thanks for the lessons Nick. I'll watch it a hundred times .
Also wanted to wish you and Anji all the best. Hope you have the best time ever!
-Eric
.Also wanted to wish you and Anji all the best. Hope you have the best time ever!
-Eric
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2004
- Messages
- 4,030
Thanks for posting the video. I enjoyed that.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2004
- Messages
- 210
Matt- 'Ya got me! :foot:
Got it... note to self, buy more blue dykem, with fancy shmancy bulb top bottle.
On a serious note I and I'm sure many others would love a thread where you detailed the myriad uses you have for various tools like the height gauge and such. I'm yet to read one of your threads where I didn't come away with some very helpful knowledge!
Congrats on getting hitched btw!
