Video Review – HeavyHanded "Washboard" Strop

OFF TOPIC: Where have you found the sweet spot to be on the edge? I have a Marble's bolo that I haven't figured out how to use, yet.

On topic: I am about to shut down my netbook for the night and touch up my knives on a paper around stone strop. Thank you again, HeavyHanded!
 
Received the washboard sometime this week and immediately tested it to bring back the bites from my EDCs (SRM 710 and EL02). Both has been reprofiled and matches my use. I intentionally used them for my EDC (paper, coffee pack, etc.) until they no longer shave comfortable (lots of tugging and not a clean smooth shave). Wrapping plain copier paper and rubbed some Autosol on it. After getting enough bite (three finger sticky), the blades were cleaned with tissue + hand sanitizer (alcohol base), switched the paper out with plain paper no compound. Final strop on paper result in good enough shave.

Comparing the result with 'balance strop' almost similar in the effect of less rounding the edge and bringing back the bite. However, washboard result seems to be more toothy than balance strop. Both are highly recommended, depending on the objective. For a more robust longer EDC slicer, washboard is the way to go. For a more polished (but still having bite), balance strop is a better choice.

On the weekend, tested using sandpaper with washboard as backing to bring back my wife's kitchen knife. It works very well, the old worn sandpaper was brought back to life (or so to speak). Was able to put the edge back on the Victorinox paring knife, strop on Autosol and last on plain paper. Very nice result (have to wait until my wife uses it and provide feedback)

My speculation is that the ridges (and depth/width of each valley) plays an important role of 'knocking off burrs' and putting pressure point to the edge. Ideally, the width/gap of each valley (of the grid paralel to the board width) should be less than the bevel face. It seems that the one paralel to the lenght of board is wider. The flat high points provides alignment feel to the edge so that the correct angle can be maintained. I imagine each part of the edge bevel face had a 'bumpy ride' on the paper surface, resulting in the burr getting knocked off, and because the flat surface on the high points, edge will not get rounded.

I recommend to have this on everyone's sharpening/maintenance kit, as it's easy to maintain (simply swap paper) and result in fine enough edges without rounding.
(When and if I have further test result, I'll update this thread).

Perhaps HH can elaborate more the theory behind this.
 
Chris "Anagarika";12461252 said:
Perhaps HH can elaborate more the theory behind this.
Click to expand...


Glad its working out for you!

Theory behind it is to increase bite of the abrasive when using compounds and to just work better when using paper/film substrates to sharpen. And to do this in a repeatable and tweakable manner.

I noticed huge differences in how abrasives "bite" depending on how they're used - same compound on paper, leather, oak lapping board all have very different edge characteristics and scratch pattern. Sounds like a no-brainer right, by changing how resilient the backing is, you effectively change the pressure the abrasive is exerting without changing the overall pressure. How to manipulate that? A lot of trial and error.

The fine lands (top of the fine grooves) bite into the paper and compress it, but still have enough surface area to grip compound. Used plain, they simply compress the surface. The crosswise relief cuts do a couple of things - first they give a ton of feedback as the edge passes across, really lets you know by feel what pitch/angle your edge is at. Takes very few passes to get a feel for this. Second, they expose sharp peaks on the leading edge of the lands, increasing the bite on the abrasive even more. For burr removal on paper, one can elevate the spine a couple degrees ( personal preference - can be used at original angle too) and this mechanism works very well to clean up the edge - also does a good job of polishing back bevels. Third, they effectively decrease overall surface area yet again, further increasing effective spot pressure - surface area is now a small fraction of what even a very hard flat surface would be under a sheet of paper. Adding additional sheets of paper softens the effect and makes for a slightly finer scratch pattern with the same abrasive. Good for convex and Scandi grinds, or with light pressure to further refine an edge. Somewhere around two or three sheets one gets close to the effect one would have from wrapping paper around a stone.

It gets a lot of work done with compounds, this was its original function. No longer practical to do frequent cleaning on leather or canvas, the thing is removing steel on the order of a fine hone. I still strop with newspaper wrapped around a stone or edge of countertop sometimes, but for a system to work best it has to be repeatable. The arrangement of teeth on the Washboard work best with lined writing paper or 20# bond copy paper (75 GSM). Writing and copy paper will be around for a long time, newspapers probably not.

Also, because it provides a ton of feedback it works great on lapping film and sandpaper. Is making use of the Washboard texture - the pattern of swarf buildup clearly shows the tops of the lands making most of the contact. I'd swear it creates less burr and is easier to remove the burr, especially with a light pass or two edge leading - paper seems to catch/get cut less often. Also seems to carve cleaner shoulder transitions - looks more like stone work than what I get from sandpaper over a metal plate.

Have been working feverishly to make a compound that work best with this system - most compounds and powders will work quite well anyway, but I've wanted something that grips the paper "just so". Finally have something that seems to make best use of how the Wasboard works. With one sheet of paper, creates an edge comparable to a 4k JWS - still 3 finger sticky but pretty refined, polished satin scratch pattern.

Still hope to have some ready by end of week, but might have to push into early the following week....

HH
 
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HH,

Few more observations in random:

The copy paper I used is the 80 gr / m2 kind. Quite thick, the other option is 70. Never see one that's 75 ;)
Purposely keeping it with Autosol to take out compound from the equation. I've used it before, so the result should be more apple to apple comparison.

I am still learning to listen/feel for the feedback. Currently going by my original angle of each knife I sharpen.

The sandpaper was/is quite worn (have been used since long time back when I first got my mirror edge bevel, I guess 1.5 yrs ago) and it worked well for softer steel like Victorinox.

It's interesting that all these experiments coincides with newfound understanding on the burr removal (see the microbevel burr thread). Looks like using this, no need to raise the microbevel to knock those burr off ;)
Unfortunately I don't have a microscope, only a 15x loupe :p

As of now, I'd say this washboard is very useful in achieving repeatable result for general EDC purpose, and the balance strop for a more refined edge (shaving). You also mentioned edge leading .. haven't dared to try that yet, given bluntcut's edge leading theory (the apex thread) it'll be interesting to find out. I am also going to try several layers of paper and share what I find.
 
Chris, I've found that when using heavier paper you can help it out a bit. Wrap around the Washboard as usual and then rub with a clean, dry rag or towel - use a lot of pressure - you'll see it compress around the high points. Or use the 70GSM and that should work fine. Have had good luck with paper in that range.

Generally I always finish with a trailing stroke, cannot use edge leading on plain paper or loaded paper. With sandpaper and lapping film it comes in real handy for removing formed burrs, some of which will not completely go with a trailing stroke on the same grit paper/film. I use just a light brushing across the sandpaper, edge leading, till its completely gone, then a few light alternating passes edge trailing. Finish on plain paper edge trailing and it reliably makes a nice edge at pretty much any grit level, especially useful for lower grit work where a progression is not wanted.
 
HH,

Will try that (70 gr/m2) ..

On sandpaper, if it's a light leading edge, then the board effect is almost none (no compression at all), unless previously the sandpaper has been 'press formed'. Hmm, will try this idea sometime later.
 
When using it to remove the burr, you take advantage of the light pressure from the paper being a bit slack just sitting there - its impossible to draw out all the slack. You get to use just the pressure of the paper bowing to remove the burr without making a new one on the opposite side. Maybe it touches down a small amount, but very little pressure in any event. It also doesn't appear to cause any loss of bite though needs a few light edge trailing strokes to get the edge to max acuteness after deburring. Can also just strop on paper after removing the burr and this will jump it up a touch as well.
 
From my test so far (limited steels, 8Cr13MoV and SAK), the washboard with Autosol on 70 gr copier paper followed with washboard + plain paper will bring back the edge bite, even three finger sticky, if the edge is not damaged, merely blunted (by BF MT&E standard, i.e. no longer dry shaving stub) after light EDC use (paper, tea / coffee aluminium packaging, some fried fish cake cut on plastic container). So far, due to my light use, the edge is never damaged (roll/dent) so I can't say how effective the washboard concept for this.

However, I am yet manage to bring it back to smooth shaving by only the washboard, as I like to shave with my knives, even with 2 layers of plain paper. I still have to go back to balance strop (also using Autosol) to smoothen out the edge further, until it shaves smoothly (although not as smooth as disposable razor, that I recently tried again).

Conclusion so far is still: for daily use, the washboard works well, especially if the cut object is of various material (agressive, yet still push cut copier paper). It has characteristic of a strop without danger of rounding off, so I don't have to go back to the stone. For shaving, it requires a bit more refinement. It is possible though, that my stropping skill can use more training, so if I have further update, I'll share again.

Sorry, haven't chanced yet testing the sandpaper further on the washboard. Maybe one day when I have time to rebevel again my EL08.
 
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Chris, very good - thanks for more updates!

Have you tried using two sheets of paper and pre-compressing them as mentioned earlier? Might need a lighter touch as well but should still be able to feel the washboard texture. This should tame the abrasive a bit, give it more material to sink into and create a finer scratch pattern.

A big part of my goal when starting into this was to maintain or recover three finger sticky feeling and microtoothy edge - trying to reproduce as faithfully as possible my backhoned waterstone edges. My experience leads me to believe it can be done with a range of abrasives on the Washboard, some more reliably than others - will add Autosol to the list of positives. It seems to be heavily dependent on the binder as to how well a compound works for best effect in a given application. Most are made for machine finishing.

Have finalized my own custom compound to send along with it - 85% abrasive content, this stuff really works well on paper. Is a multi-grit formula that leaves a bit of scratch pattern - I liken it to a 4k waterstone edge - still catchy but can treetop some hairs. Decided for simplicity sake to go with a single grade of compound.

I have the whole thing in order, just wanted to put up a video to go along with 'em - hopefully by early next week. I had a 6" one that a coworker bought yesterday - she didn't care about the video, said the user's manual will be good enough for now.

HH
 
HH,

You mean 2 layers, with the top one is with compound? Can try that no problem ;)

Edit to add: 2 layers works better. I think the strength of this backing is that the options are really wide (kind of paper, thickness, layers, compound, etc) while still providing consistent texture. I've tried stropping on plain paper before and the lack of feedback and pressure point doesn't give the edge much improvement.
 
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Chris "Anagarika";12483749 said:
HH,

You mean 2 layers, with the top one is with compound? Can try that no problem ;)

Edit to add: 2 layers works better. I think the strength of this backing is that the options are really wide (kind of paper, thickness, layers, compound, etc) while still providing consistent texture. I've tried stropping on plain paper before and the lack of feedback and pressure point doesn't give the edge much improvement.
Click to expand...

With a little trial and error, one can fine tune the results pretty reliably. That's a big reason I recommend using the same type of paper all the time if possible. You can treat it more casually and reuse junk mail and such for the paper, but if the inputs stay the same, one can really zero in on a specific edge quality and keep it there (this sort of goes along with the "toothy or polished" thread currently running).

I've gotten really good results stropping with plain paper or newspaper over a regular stone as a final polish, never had much luck using to bring back even a lightly worn edge. Over the Washboard and a sheet of regular paper can make a big improvement and even restore an edge (within reason). The Tram bolo machete from the pics on page 1 was brought back to shaving arm hair (with a bit of tug) along the sweet spot by simply stropping on plain paper using some pressure. Part of this is undoubtedly the steel, but impressive nonetheless. Have gotten a handful of knives to go from easily shaving arm hair/treetopping some leg hair, to whittling a hair by just staying on one sheet of plain paper for 50 -60 passes. It won't bring them back to this level after any amount of use, have to back to the compound and then back to the paper. On the Washboard the ability of paper to get some work done is clearly increased, you can really see the difference if you polish the backbevel on a convex or Scandi - it shines up considerably more than paper over a stone.

I also credit it with improving my angle control when backhoning/stropping on other stones. Might be my imagination, but pretty sure my backhone edges have a much cleaner, more consistent grind path and less overlap (fewer degrees of deviation) since I started using the Washboard. Then again, since I started using films and sandpaper on the board I haven't used any of my stones since the last videos I made of the jointer stones...
 
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