Villager vs. Cherry Tree

Joined
Jan 22, 1999
Messages
2,414
I had an opportunity to use my villager this past weekend at our camp so here's the review that I had promised Bill. First, as some others had noted, the edges of the butt plate were somewhat sharp; however, it took < 2 min with a sanding drum on a Dremel to eliminate the problem. Sheath work was very good & I had no problem with the blade trying to cut the leather on the draw.

The original edge on the villager was reasonably sharp but could have used a touch up. Nevertheless, I decided to leave it as it was for the purposes of comparison to an Estwing hatchet that also had a less than optimal edge. The third tool I used for my comparison was a CS LTC, albeit with a hair-popping edge.

Thanks to some tree clearing by the electric company, there was more than the usual amount of firewood laying around. All three tools worked really well for limbing off the smaller branches, with both khukris proving easier to maneuver at various angles than the hatchet. I had used a 12" machete for limbing in the past and, although it got the job done, either khukri was much better suited to the task.

One of the downed trees was a cherry that I thought would make a good test object for the tools' chopping ability. I selected a few 3-4" thick pieces and put each of the tools to work cutting off several sections.

The LTC made the deepest cuts, which was not surprising given its sharpness and narrow blade profile. However, it really lodged itself into the wood and had to be backed out several times. (I was reluctant to apply sideways pressure since I didn't want to damage the relatively thin blade.) Because of this tendency to hang-up, it was the poorest overall performer of the three.

The villager also bit pretty deeply but didn't get lodged in and was much better than the LTC at chipping out the wood. Because of the heft of the blade, I didn't hesitate to pry sideways with it a bit as necessary. I was really impressed with this little blade's chopping ability, but would prefer both a longer blade and a longer handle for any prolonged chopping duties.

The Estwing made the shallowest cuts but was the best of the three at throwing chips. I didn't time the cutting exercises or count the number of strokes needed to cut through the wood but my feeling is that the hatchet required fewer strokes and took the least amount of time to complete a cut. Effort, however, is another matter. The hatchet was much more tiring on my hand and wrist than the villager.

The overall chopping performance of villager and hatchet was very close. Although the hatchet was somewhat faster, the khukuri would be my choice of such one-hand tools for prolonged cutting.

BTW, none of the three tools suffered any damage from this moderate workout. I have no way of authoritatively testing their edges, but each seemed about as sharp as when I started -- LTC still popped hair and both others could still scrape it away. I'm not about to give up my Stihl chainsaw, but the villager will take the place of the hatchet in my backpack.

I had thought about cleaning up the villager's grind lines, but will probably leave it as it is with all the character of a tough little beater. I'm looking forward to playing some more next weekend after I put my edge on it.

Now about that khukuri with a longer blade and longer handle...
biggrin.gif

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--



[This message has been edited by bcaffrey (edited 24 May 1999).]
 
Brian, many thanks for the field report. These are always appreciated because they show what the tools will really do. I think the reports that are coming in on the little villager are saying the same thing I said, "ugly but tough."

Uncle Bill
 
Brian, nice writeup. The only thing that surprised me was the edge holding of the Estwing hatchet. Mine (axe) came butter cutting sharp and simply will not hold a really thin edge. It does however have a decent face profile which bites really well. My main problem is that the metal body is too flexible for me, that is just a problem with my chopping style. On a positive note, my dog really liked the leather sheath that came with it.

I was really impressed with this little blade's chopping ability, but would prefer both a longer blade and a longer handle for any prolonged chopping duties.

So would I, an 18" AK or WWII would probably feel very nice to you, heavier than the villager, but this is offset by the much longer handles.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 25 May 1999).]
 
Thanks, Cliff, for input.

I'd guess the average size of a Nepali male is maybe 5 foot six inches and about 125 pounds. That villager is enough for him. For us "giants" it is a little small. And this is presenting a problem getting various sized village knifes. They are generally just about the size of our last batch. I fear we will either have to go looking or else tell the village kamis to make us something bigger and different.

Uncle Bill
 
Thanks for the kind words about the writeup, Cliff.
The only thing that surprised me was the edge holding of the Estwing hatchet...
The edge on the Estwing was the factory original. I should be able to better tell how well it holds an edge after I sharpen it to my liking. I'd had another Estwing hatchet in the past and do remember being pleased with its performance. Honestly, however, I never gave it a really hard workout since full-size axes & saws are much more suited to such work.

Thanks for the tip on the 18" AK or WWII. I'm sure one is in my future.

BTW, cute story about your dog. One of mine decided that a piece of the cheerywood I cut would make a fine plaything -- he ran around tossing it up in the air. I'm just glad that he had enough sense not to try to catch it.

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

 
The handle size is not a problem for everyone, Cobalt for example likes his 15" AK just fine. Grip ergonomic opinions vary widely depending on who you ask, as it is how the knife feels in your hand, it is a very personal thing.

-Cliff
 
Rusty who owns about 15 HI khukuris as of this writing has small hands and even the 12 inchers work fine for him. I have a Bando customer who weighs in at 280 and has hands like a Gorilla. The 20 inch AK works fine for him but a 12 incher loses itself in his hands. As Cliff wisely pointed out, it is a very personal thing.

Uncle Bill
 
Cliff,
You must have gotten one of the Factory lemmons. Once in a while a blade gets through with a bad heat treat. I've used the camper's axe (read Hudson's Bay) on the trapline for years, no problems, holds an edge very well.
Dan
 
Dan, that is what I expected since they have a reputation for being decent tools. Since the hatchet is a little soft I have just been using it for more utility work than just woodcutting lately.

-Cliff


[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 26 May 1999).]
 
Cliff, in order to avoid problems such as a rare case of poor heat treat we "try" to inspect every blade -- twice in Nepal (kami and Kami) and twice here (Yangdu and me) but things can happen. Example:

Kami is getting a box ready to take to the GPO. A kami is just finishing up a blade and Kami wants to ship it. The taxi is waiting. The knife goes without inspection because the kami doesn't have time and Kami knows Yangdu and I will inspect here. The knives arrive. We unpack and begin inspection. The phone rings. Yangdu and I have to go run an errand. We return. Where did we leave off? Here! We miss the knife and it goes uninspected and it's the only one that should have been a reject. The chances are slim but it can happen.

Uncle Bill
 
Brian,

Did you use the latest version of the LTC? The one was a definite sabre grind and rough black coating. It seems to be better than the one I have but mine is different than the ones being made today.

Will

[This message has been edited by Will Kwan (edited 26 May 1999).]
 
Will,

I'm not sure since I got it in a trade, but I think my LTC is an older model. I left it at our camp so I'm relying on memory, but I believe the blade is sabre grind (beginning an inch or so from the edge) and the black coating is somewhat rough. It is marked "Special Projects" or something like that near the blade, has a brass lanyard hole liner, and the sheath is cordura. If there are any other distinguishing characteristics I should look for, I'd be happy to check this weekend.

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

 
Thanks for the info Brian.

Can't think of anything else to look for. The coating on mine is more of of a bluing not like the powder coat they are using now.

It sounds like it was made between my generation and the current generation. The main reason I was interest was that edge retention on my LTC was poor while the GS Gurkha (about a yr old) is good. My LTC is on permenant loan to my sister for yard work.

Will

[This message has been edited by Will Kwan (edited 27 May 1999).]
 
Will.
I have one of the first CS LTCs.
It has the "blued" type finish like you are talking about. I believe these were 1095 steel. I just checked the thickness.It is 1/8th" thick.
Mine has served me well for cutting down smaller,to 4".softer kinds of trees like Willow and Mulberry.It works pretty good on White Ash up to a couple of inches too.
I keep pretty steep angle on mine when sharpening. Maybe you got a bad heat treat ?


I am kinda anxious to try out the 15" AK on this kind of work and compare it to my LTC.I will maybe just have to make one swing now instead of two for the ones up to 2 1/2" - 3".
I can already cut faster than an Ontario Machete.
smile.gif


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&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;---¥vsa----&gt;®
 
Thanks for the info Yvsa.

I think the current Carbon V may have better edge retention than typical 1095.


Will
 
You're welcome Will.
I have three of the CS blades in Carbon V and totally agree that they do better than the 1095.The Carbon V
Trailmaster I have will do much more chopping than the LTC without loseing its edge,unless you let a certain young man in Arkansas use it.
smile.gif


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&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;---¥vsa----&gt;®
 
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