Vintage Axe Reprofiling

[junkenstien]

 

[junkenstien]

6lb7oz plumb i got out of the mailbox.The toe is 3/4 of an inch shorter than the center of the bit,does it need to be taken back to the original shape to be a good splitter?2 1/4 inches of hard steel in the center,would be a little over 1 1/2 inches of hard steel makeing it look like a dayton again.

 

[Brian Rust]

I don't. I think the proper filing stroke is with the filing pointing at an imaginary point near the poll that would be the center of the radius of the arc of the bit.

Confusing enough? Let me put it another way. Aim the file near a point at the back of the eye halfway up the poll. Clear as mud now?


Also, change the angle of your filing stroke near the corners of the bit to create a wider angled edge bevel at the corners (the heel and toe of the bit). The heel and toe are the weakest points on the axe since the steel is supported from only one side whereas a point in the center of the bit is supported on both sides. The heels and toes can easily be dulled, chipped or rolled on a hard knot. A more robust (thicker) edge angle helps protects against this.

When I see axes with a missing/chipped heel/toe 7/10 times it is because they filed them way too thin. If you look at square pegs Plumb a few posts up you can see that grind stops about an 1/8” or so before the heel/toe. This is the proper way to file an axe!!!! And it could save the heel or toe of your axe one day!!

 

[junkenstien]

Yes sir,why I put it here.Like looking at his plumbs.

 

[Square_peg]

Yes sir,why I put it here.Like looking at his plumbs.

I have a couple other Plumb rafters with that same pattern on them so I'm guessing it was the factory grind at one time.

 

[Agent_H]

When I see axes with a missing/chipped heel/toe 7/10 times it is because they filed them way too thin. If you look at square pegs Plumb a few posts up you can see that grind stops about an 1/8” or so before the heel/toe. This is the proper way to file an axe!!!! And it could save the heel or toe of your axe one day!!

1) The point where an axe binds is beyond the banana grind. Shallow cuts don't have a problem with binding.
2) If the file makes contact further back then let it - remove some more material. But double check that you're angle isn't too shallow.

I like the banana grind to continue about 3/4" to 1-1/4" back from the edge.

Here's one on a vintage Plumb rafter which I really like. Of course I had to touch this one up but it came with this very nice shape.

Here's one I recently did for a buddy.

This picture, example-worthy work.

I think Square_peg is on with his approach. It is a solid way to bring back a decent grind on an axe that that has been used, maybe more so in the toe.

Guess it depends on the axe and how it's worn. Only take from where you need?
Hand-filing allows the most control.

I have a couple other Plumb rafters with that same pattern on them so I'm guessing it was the factory grind at one time.

Rafting patterns