Visible bolster pins

M

Mark Basford

Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
103
I'm having issues with visible bolster pins. It's driving me crazy.

I tried nickel silver stock and pins, but there was subtle difference in color, especially after a few days of oxidation...

So I switched to stainless, but now I'm having issues with the pins sinking, below flush after grinding.

I know that I must me overheating the pins... using a 36 grit zirc belt at 25% speed on a flat platten.

I bought a tapering bit to help solidify the mechanical joint, but it may not solve the problem... and I'd rather not resort to hand filing or water cooling.

Any recommendations?
 
Hidden bolster pins, maybe? Drill your blade as you normally would, and drill partially through your bolster stock on each side. Cut the pins to appropriate length and set it all up. Let the epoxy, JB weld, or whatever you're using for affixing the bolsters hold it all together, and the pins serve to strengthen against shearing.

--nathan
 
You need to find nickel pins with the same make up as the bolsters. I don't know if you can or not, without turning them yourself from the same metal. Even then grain can give them away. Nickle silver comes in a variety of different grades, and formulas. I put mine down by countersinking the bolsters, then peening the pins down well, basicly riveting. Keep them well polished would my suggestion.
 
silver_pilate said:
Hidden bolster pins, maybe? Drill your blade as you normally would, and drill partially through your bolster stock on each side. Cut the pins to appropriate length and set it all up. Let the epoxy, JB weld, or whatever you're using for affixing the bolsters hold it all together, and the pins serve to strengthen against shearing.

--nathan
Click to expand...

hmm. I have never used any sort of adhesive, just rely on the friction fit from peening to hold things together and dead flat parts to prevent gaps... I know that JB weld works great, but how do you prevent getting a gray line at the joint?

LRB said:
You need to find nickel pins with the same make up as the bolsters. I don't know if you can or not, without turning them yourself from the same metal. Even then grain can give them away. Nickle silver comes in a variety of different grades, and formulas. I put mine down by countersinking the bolsters, then peening the pins down well, basicly riveting. Keep them well polished would my suggestion.
Click to expand...

ok, I'm most definately using the tapering bit to countersink from now on. I'm confident in my riveting as it is, but the dovetailing action will make things even better.
 
Nickel is a pain to match materials. I say go to 416 stainless and buy 416 pins from the same vendor. Its still not 100% that they will match but its about the best chance ya have. Be sure the swedge the pins in tight by leaving them proud. I use my forging press actually but I have to be careful or it deforms the bolster too much. A tapered ream helps but I dont think its neccesary. Ive done it for years before I knew they made such a thing. Use sharp belts to avoid overheating which causes metal to grow.
 
Bruce has a good point with 416 and 416. 410 is the same color as 416 but slightly different texture. so you could do 410 bolsters and 416 pins but your peening is important to get the hole filled.
But because it is bolster material, 416 which seems only availabe in 1/8 thickness barstock or thicker, is fine. I have not had a concern about color of 416 barstock and 416 pin material.
 
36 grit?
Try filing them, friend. MUCH more control, and well, never any heat.
As well, a visible pin shows what you did. Maybe intentionally use a drastically different material - like brass - and it's not all bad.
 
Using any sort of adhesive under the bolster will allow a space. If you make everything flat, and rivet them down, there will be no gap. I use pins to hold the two bolster halves together, then true front and back, and complete all polishing on the front as I want them, before installing them. This prevents scratches in the ricasso area when finishing.
 
I've been using 303 up to this point, but will try 416.

Some 416 flat stock and pins arrived last week so that I could experiment with making a slipjoint. There will be plenty left over for bolsters.
 
the best luck i have is by cutting pieces off of the same bar that I am making my bolsters liner from and then turning pins from these pieces on a lathe. Even using 416 rods for pins in 416 bolsters they are still visible. by using the exact same stock and cleaning very well before peening I have been able to make the pins disapear.
 
visible pins drive me insane... there are several things to do/try:
1st, Use 416ss bolsters and pins.
Smaller pins will blend easier.
Clean the pin by very lightly sanding with a high grit to remove any tarnish.
Clean the bolster hole with alcohol or acetone. It's amazing how much dirt comes out.
Drill the bolster hole so it has a taper in it. Use Tapered Pin Reamers. MSC carries them I think but they are down for maintenance at the moment. They are hard to find. Look for some thing in the 0/2 to 0/4 range. The top and bottom dimensions will be listed so buy the one for the pins you use. These will put a slight taper in the hole so it is not square up and down. Peen your pin so it fills in this tapered hole. You want the pin material to spread out and 'smear' into the tapered hole.
I built a pin press vise and I have significantly better luck blending pins in. http://mickleyknives.com/html/page_29_pin_press.html
There is not a thing wrong with peening, I just prefer the press and have better luck with it.
Hope that helps..
 
burke531 said:
the best luck i have is by cutting pieces off of the same bar that I am making my bolsters liner from and then turning pins from these pieces on a lathe. Even using 416 rods for pins in 416 bolsters they are still visible. by using the exact same stock and cleaning very well before peening I have been able to make the pins disapear.
Click to expand...

Geez Bill dont you even sleep? Thats doing things the hard way. Darn MasterSmiths! :D
 
Bruce I have been catching up since may 30. but you have no room to talk about sleeping. Darn gunsmith/mastersmith.
 
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